SteamyTea

What does that bring to the party, dancing girls with doughnuts like fannies.

A lot us on on here know, but that is because we research things and are willing to take, and act on, advice, rather than though up our hands and say 'it is not my fault' You will still have a house that is at the same mean temperature, just that some rooms will be colder and others warmer. Now if your ASHP is too small, then it will always struggle to heat the place when it gets cold. You also keep fixating on radiator temperature; temperature is not power or energy.

Here is the steam oven I had in the 1970s. Think it is still kicking about somewhere in my Mother's loft. https://www.argos.co.uk/search/prestige-4-litre-aluminium-pressure-cooker/ I find the advertising a bit iffy, they all claim to preserve the nutrients, flavours and moisture. You can always put a Pyrex boil of water in an oven, does the same thing. Food Poncery, I hate it.

kWh What's the difference between a drummer and a drum machine? You only have to punch the information into the drum machine once.

What, at 50p/kWh, (expletive deleted) off

At least a metre, and not taught I think. Some hp manufacturers specify the length.

Are the flexible pipes long enough?

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/b06tr5tf

https://www.pipelagging.com/ Something for everyone there. Hot and cold pipes should be lagged.

We don't describe air-conditioning as a 'reverse' heat pump. There are basically two elements to any heat engine, the hot side and the cold side. All the rest is plumbing.

No, stop saying this, they work exactly the same, it is just where you measure the temperature.

Right and wrong. Temperature is not energy. As a simple explanation, for any given heat emitter area (radiator or floor), you can deliver more power (power is not energy) the greater the temperature differences. So yes, you need a bigger area if the difference between the floor area and the room's air is great, or you need a higher temperature. But then it also comes down to how long the power is delivered for. This is the energy (energy does the work, which is heating the air in the room) and is why we use the unit kWh, it is just power multiplied by time. So nothing wrong with a relatively low temperature, but it may need a larger emitter area and need to be on for longer.

I feel so much better having caught up with all the trials and tribulations. Going to hang my washing out in the sun, do a bit of painting and then go out. My life is good.

I hope someone is going to insulate all the pipes.

Not much. Fitting UFH may cost you more to run. Still, loosing the radiators is a good move.

W/m.K Or W.m-1.K-1 or even W/(m.K)

That was a design flaw, not the materials. I think this is part of the problem, we don't spend much on designing houses. We spend a lot on styling them, but that is only part of the process. Passivhaus at least tries to make a stab at it, and the software (well spreadsheet) is probably pretty good. Then someone comes along and sticks a window in the wrong place, and then, refuses to do anything to mitigate the problem, and then tells everyone 'Passivehaus is rubbish, it overheats".

Or not.

I would be reluctant to have a domestic 'machine' on two supplies. Single isolation is much safer.

Or go back to Barratt Homes in the late 1980s. It is sometimes hard to disaggregate and isolate the real causes of failures, it could be choice of materials, design failure, construction detail.

As Dave said. But as a general rule, heat loss and heat gain have different 'curves'. So the energy needed to heat something up is greater than the energy lost during cooling, this is because during the heating stage, energy is also being lost. The greater the temperature differences, the greater the losses (look up Newton's Law of Cooling). So with all things being equal (which they won't be), limiting the temperature rise to the minimum acceptable (your 20°C to 21°C) is the better option. The unequal things are: efficiency of heat source, external inputs and outputs (solar gain and opening doors), changes is external temperature, Internal inputs and outputs (cooking, bathing, ventilation).

Seems to me that any method can fail. I had a Victorian brick house, noise transmission was dreadful, save with my Portland Stone and Cob place. I also had a Lightweight Block and Brick place, good insulation, very little sound transmission, but all the plaster was cracking, except on the timber stud wall. Now got a timber frame place, noise transmission is pretty good, but as it is terraced, when a neighbour slams an external door (they have moved on thankfully), all 4 of the houses shake. I think this is to do with the airtightness. Now for things going right, and an analogy. If I go and buy a tin of Heinz beans, I know exactly what I am getting. But I can over cook them to a mush, or microwave them so only the top layer is cooked (microwaves don't really cook from the inside). So a Timber Frame is nearly always going to leave the factory as good as it can be, it then gets corrupted on site. Bricks are generally made to a good size tolerance, and a good bricklayer will put them in the right place. Design is very important though. A house can be built out of just about any solid material, just that they will have different limitations. Try and cheat those limitations and you get problems, work with them and life will be good. Insulation is a difficult one as it must be designed with airtightness in mind. This is why sheet insulation is so good, follow the instructions and you get airtighness as well. wool insulations need to be isolated from external air movement, so an outer leaf will been to be made airtight, after that, moving inwards, it matters not a jot, the warm air is trapped. ICF, on the face of it, seems to 'cure' all these problems, but it does require very good onsite skill levels (like a brick built place). But it seems to cause a a lot of people problems, but that may be because they lack experience. I don't see many ICF housing estates, but I see a lot of factory built TF ones. This "Time, Quality, Cost" pick any two, is wrong, go can have all three, just looked to the automotive industry and see what you can buy for £15,000.

Yes, and even worse is

First things first, for safety. Check your earths.

It almost certainly will. The metals in the element will get hot first, very hot. Then stay hot after power us removed. With a small volume of water there is just not enough buffering to cope.