SteamyTea

Is that exposed wall area. and it is kWh.

It is not just the insulation levels that affect building performance. Weather makes the biggest difference. My weather in West Cornwall is very different from East Kent. The Met Office has good data on this.

I think LISA does acoustics. https://lisafea.com/

Not many places down here that don't get fairly good coverage with 4G. Lizard Peninsular is one, strange as it is the home of wireless transmission. May have been to do with Goonhilly not wanting stray signals.

A decent dedicated wifi router, with a colander behind it. I think BT did a good router that claimed it could do 300m. If there is a decent 4G signal, let they use their own service.

Here is a picture of my CurrentCost monitor. What you cannot see us the little Raspberry Pi Zero in the box it is sitting on. All the RPi does is collect all the data for later analysis in Excel. Very simple and reliable.

Humid air is 'damp' Condensation on a door frame is 'damp' High external humidity is 'damp' So do you want help of not?

There should be, but I think they are so small that we cannot really feel them, so as you say, a perception thing.

Stick it into his catflap.

If you know the airflow, you can work out your losses. With the commrcial ones, they have a number of holes of known size and block of a few as the house gets smaller, or more airthight. I think when @joe90's was done, he had only two holes open (that is the minimum on the kit used), then the fan speed is adjusted to get the pressure difference to 50Pa.

What I have done with the CurrentCost This is the data I collect: Date and Time, Temperature, Power 18/01/2021 00:00:07,19.9,00058 18/01/2021 00:00:18,19.9,00049 18/01/2021 00:00:24,19.9,00045 18/01/2021 00:00:29,19.9,00042 18/01/2021 00:00:35,19.9,00039

You buy that off @pocster, wash it thoroughly, in vinegar and carbolic soap.

Number of ways, manometer would do it. Or a couple of BMP280s https://www.bosch-sensortec.com/products/environmental-sensors/pressure-sensors/pressure-sensors-bmp280-1.html I am using some BMP280s to see what the temperatures are doing. Easy to rig up once you realise that it is possible to add extra I2C pins to an RPi. Sensor Number, Date and Time, Temp, RH, Pressure i2C4,09/02/2021 18:12:33,15.14,37.1864298623,986.316160323 i2C4,09/02/2021 18:13:32,16.75,36.0736943753,986.391397008 i2C3,09/02/2021 18:13:32,0.81,69.812819981,987.416998524 i2C3,09/02/2021 18:14:31,0.78,70.1470805963,987.875455501 i2C4,09/02/2021 18:14:31,18.15,33.8904554416,986.36425019 Should be cold enough, fro long enough, to establish your kW.K-1 numbers, then you are only one step away from a predictive system.

Probably sold now. Search eBay for CurrentCost energy meter. For your monitoring you need a clamp on type (CT) and not the optical one. Here is one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Current-Cost-Monitor/293993103408?hash=item44735ac030:g:bxQAAOSwnEJgCbZA

That's interesting. There is a school of thought that is convinced that there are huge radiative losses via glazed areas, "because it radiates to space". I have never bought into it and always put it down to poor glazing.

That would use electricity, and then we would have to explain, to the quantum level, how it works. Then we would have to explain the two quantum theories. And the room would still be cold and damp. Set fire to the place and claim on insurance, at least it will be warm enough to drive the damp away.

Are you willing to get in a JCB and start digging after dowsing for gas pipes.

PVGIS https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/#PVP

So you are not willing to test things to get data. Fair enough, you know best via your logic. As I said to another on here, there is more than one system of logic and I do not know your preferred type.

No, you can get heat pumps of just about any size, Carrier makes a 45 kW model, and you can always have several of them. It is a design problem, not a technology problem.

Not the levels of insulation, or airtightness, that is the problem. It is all down to the sizing for the heat losses. If you have two houses of identical design, in the same weather regime, but one has an overall heat load of say 1 kW.K-1, and the other has a heat load of 1.5W.K-1, it is a sizing issue. Just claiming that they only work best in well insulated houses is missing the real issue of bad design execution. (there ay be other reasons to not have one, but it is not thermodynamics)

The do work, but they have to be sized correctly. I could claim that your car does not work when it is cold, and if you had bought one to deal with ice and snow, you would be fine, for those few days a year when we have snow (actually got some here this morning). They are used, in the UK, to help get our CO2e emissions lowered, even if supplementary is sometimes needed.

It won't make the ASHP produce more power, but it can produce more energy (energy is the modern term for heat). By allowing the ASHP to run for longer, there is less of a cooling cycle as the ASHP is on more. This is why I am of the opinion that all heat pump systems should be fitted with a buffer. Just establishing what size, and to what temperature, is needed becomes the issue for greatest efficiency.

There are a whole raft of rules, regulations and laws about putting in water turbines. If people think that micro generation with wind is hard, try water.

M.G.H gives you the power of a water turbine. M is Mass Flow Rate in kg.s-1 G is gravity 9.81 m.s-2 H is height (or drop) in m. A wind turbine a a little more complicated, but still only multiplication. P = Cp.1/2.p.A.V3 Where P = power in watts Cp = efficiency of turbine p = air density A = swept area of turbine V = wind speed