SteamyTea

Isn't that like claiming a car a cost a fortune in fuel when it gets filled up, but totally ignoring all the days it does not get filled up. I don't think the vast majority of people give two hoots about emissions, they want the cheapest. Even if they don't understand the technology. Selling it on emissions is a dead end. If I had said in 1974, "I have seen the future of motoring, it weights 2 tonnes and does 15 MPG" I would have been laughed at, but Land Rover have sold 1,000,000 Sports versions of the Range Rover. By learning about them, it really is not complicated, just a bit of addition and multiplication. There are plenty of resources to find out about them, but also plenty of dreadful one. People need to treat it the same as buying a car. You probably needed the 18 kW model for your sized house, but only the 8.5 kW to cover your basic needs.

Have a look at the cylinder and see if there is an immersion heater. Follow the lead and see if it goes to a switch.

(expletive deleted) all as he only lets it run for minutes. I keep seeing the 'works best in a modern, well insulated, airtight houses'. We really must top this statement as it is really an incorrectly sized system for the house that is the problem. If you need to deliver x kW to cover your peak load, then fitting something that is x-y kW will not do, It will be too small, don't matter if it is gas, electricity, oil, coal or wood. Too small is too small, end of.

You are happy to let drunk holiday makers have a fire in your building?

I am always surprised how cheap these units are. People spend more on a few kitchen cabinets.

None of this is going to be easy, even if we know the right answer. Do all split systems do that, or do some pump coolant fluid to the outside unit. And would you still need something to stop the vibration from the compressor anyway. Worth a bit of investigation surely. What unit is actually fitted, I can't be arsed to go and look.

Going to answer a question (somewhere between pages 3 and 53) about the noise of the compressor. Does it have flexible pipework fitted to it, or copper? Copper can cause noise transmission.

Our old mate @Jeremy Harris did that and found there was a lot of noise transmission. He RTDM and found it should be fitted with 1.5m flexible pipework.

Does it turn into vapour and cause damp problems in your house?

I thought it was Karen

well Jesus could walk on water, and turn it into wine. But I bet he cannot sort out these problems.

How much shading do you get from all those trees?

Reminds me of that Only Fools and Horses sketch where Delboy hands Rodney (who has 2 O Levels) a different calculator and asks him to try again to see if they get a better answer.

The problem about using multiple inputs to any heating system is the both the inputs and outputs vary. Inputs very in time and temperature, as do the outputs. If we knew in advance the load we wanted from a system then the problem would be greatly simplified.

'Let's play hunt the sausage' is the winner.

Looks like a Florigo range, they are Dutch I think. Don't get much change, if any, from £60k for a 3 pan one.

Yes, it should be. Work now.

Run outside and see if it is the ASHP or the treatment plant.

They will. You can get around this by using two sensors, one from the PV and one into the house, then subtract one channel from the other. How I found out a large PV installation in the community centre was wired into one of the phases that had hardly ever load on it. To do that does require a logger on it, but these are easy enough to make. Tomorrow I shall see if I can dig out one of my old CCs and play about with it, if I get time.

Just a quick note, I think your CurrentCost uses a clamp on sensor, these can misread from an inductive load and they do not compensate for different voltages. Usually this is not a problem, but don't trust the number totally, it is usually within 5%, but depending on the power factor, can be 20 percent out. Though I never found much difference over a year, but then I don't have any large inductive loads. Does it have an RJ11 socket in the back?

That jump you are seeing is about the same as a 2 kW heater. What things do you have in the house that can draw that much energy i.e. kettle, cooker, oven, vacuum cleaner, fan heater (friend of mine left one on in his loft for months). It is also about the same as your HP draws.

Good, that has eliminated that then.

Get the cat to answer it

As @dpmiller says, maybe the meter is the wrong way around. But your solar diversion could also be part responsible for your inconsistent usage. If your tank is in a ready to heat state during the day, solar will probably go into it, if that same state is at night, then the HP will take over. Can you set things up so that the HP will only heat the water when it is dark, easy this time of year, not so easy in summer, but your solar should do most of the work then.