SteamyTea

Do I Remember remember, the 5th of November

You can install the complete PV system and just use the two isolators to disconnect the AC and the DC sides. It is what they are there for. I think you can get locks for them as well. Always disconnect the AC side first. Don't isolate on the DC side as that can cause arcing in the switch. Ask our old electrician about this, dopey pillock.

Burn it and stop the spores causing asthma.

I am all for having a sauna again. Bollocks to the carbon footprint and running costs.

RRRRRRRRR

That's the jobbies.

You can get meters that look like MCBs and have an output if you want to log the usage. But can't remember what they were actually called. They were pretty cheap.

I was working on 0.0875 m3.s-1. So should be no problem there. Makes life even easier. Stick a 2 kW fan heater in and see what it does. (it is always possible that I have made an error somewhere, so worth double checking)

Start measuring or we will be like heating 'engineers', just guessing and voicing uneducated opinion.

Bad fortnight, having to travel though Devon 4 times a week at the moment, and for the foreseeable future. Basically, you cannot get rid of this mould once you have it. Manage it maybe, but it will always be lurking there.

So that will be an area of 0.01m2 and 0.025m2. If you had an airlflow of 2 m.s-1 then you can shift 0.07 m3 a second. That is 252 m3 an hour. In proper language, you will be moving around 300 kg.h-1. Air takes 1 kJ.kg-1.K-1 of energy. So to raise your air temperature from outside temperatures to duct temperatures will take about 11,000 kJ, or 3 kWh every hour. That is a power delivery of 3kW. Not much. Now I have no idea what size your house is, or how fast air moves in duct work. 2m.s-1 is about 4.5 MPH.

A quick look at Wikipedia always helps. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stachybotrys_chartarum So glad the prevailing wind is taking it to Devon and not Penzance. With all fungal infections I recommend

Not read all the replies just yet. So my 10 penyths worth. Is there a problem with sound transmission with the current heating? Especially between rooms. There is nothing to stop you fitting a heat exchanger from an ASHP in the ductwork to replace current heat source. Except one thing. Gas, oil, electrical and soils fuels have high combustion temperatures (which lowers the RH to practically 0%), ASHP start to loose their efficiency once over about 45⁰C. So this would reduce the amount of energy the the system, as a hole can deliver. If you cannot dig up the floor and fit a decent amount of insulation i.e 120+mm, then do what you can. The floor will always draw heat out of the place, but if you are only heating the air in each room, then the temperature differences are not huge, circa 12⁰C. UFH is closer to 25⁰C.

Can you bring some sound deadening down here there is a screaming baby in the cafe. Owned by one of the Extinction Rebels. Running my elevensies. (expletive deleted)ing hippies.

@Gone West I think the main thing is that it can easily take more than twice the energy to warm up a damp house. So if the heating system was designed to deliver 6 kW, you may need 15 or 18 kW before there is any noticeable change. Without the ability to get enough energy in the structure, it will always feel cold. This could be an important point when fitting an ASHP in a new, traditionally built, house. Not so much a problem with TF and plasterboard.

Data is so much better than speculation.

Another is an industrial dehumidifier. But only if damp is the real problem. It is always worth getting, or making, a temperature and relative humidity logger. Only cost a few quid and will be very useful for ever. There are a few plans on here on how to make one.

Tricky that one without measurements. Have to work out the mass of water 'in the wall'. Then the genuine wall temperature, which will be somewhere around the median hourly temperature. Then the amount of water that gets reabsorbed by the wall when it is close to the vaporisation temperature. According to this (first search hit https://theconstructor.org/practical-guide/water-absorption-test-on-bricks/2796/), around 15% of a brick dry mass can be added. So a brick that has a mass of 2 kg may have an extra 0.3 kg of water in it. To evaporate half that water, 0.15 kg, will take 411 kJ (I made a mistake above, it should be 2740 kJ.Kg-1 as the temperature does not change). The remaining water will take 4.41 kJ to get from 13°C to 20°C The brick from 13°C to 20°C will take an extra 11.2 kJ So that is a total of 426 kJ As percentages: Vaporisation 96% Retained Water 1% Brick 2.6% This is not strictly correct as not all water, or the half I used as an example, in the brick will magically vanish at 13°C. But you get the idea, the actual brick takes very little energy. The people that study thermal properties of building materials know this.

How much was just water/moisture evaporating, it takes 4.2 kJ.kg-1.K-1 to heat water. But 2470 kJ.kg-1.K-1 to change liquid water to vapour (@13°C). Brick, stone, earth take ~0.8 kJ.kg-1.K-1 I think people often forget this point.

That is interesting as I am just listening to Farming Today. Some guy 'up north' is developing and energy farm, going to get £40/MWh, 4p/kWh. Don't domestic installations get about 5p/kWh at the moment.

Hardly waste. It helps lower the grid costs and CO2.

Probably had a better volume to surface area ratio. Easy enough to work out. True, eventhough I sometimes forget to turn nine off. I do have a cheap metal one. Thing about convection heaters is the convection. We don't put radiators on ceilings, but that is where the air from an electrical rises to very quickly. If the element was not so hot, the air may have a chance to cool before it rises up.

Get 2 kW fan heaters for a tenner, and they warm all the air up in a room, not just the bit by the ceiling. Cheaper than a new boiler and a winters worth of gas. Did we establish of there was a fireplace/chimney?

Wash your mouth out with soap and vinegar. Why would a floor suck the heat out any different from a cold wall? There are those that think that mass equals free heating, and then there are those that study this and know it cools a house in the UK climate. Except in a heat wave, then it gets warmer for a day or two, but nowhere near external peak temperatures. Seems like you need to insulate and get the air changes under control.

As is living in a damp, cold and mouldy house.