SteamyTea

To say nothing of the plasticizers used in containers, seals and pipes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasticizer.

While ignorance of the law is no defence, I doubt if you were sensible i.e. increased usage and not increase exports too much, no one would notice. May be a strategy to implement over say 5 years, add 750Wp each year.

Any mention of minimum combustible material amounts. A small burn will cool quicker in the flue, so draw less air into the chamber, causing an even more inefficient burn (running rich in automotive terms). This may be part of the reason that it is recommended to have a short, hot burn. Quite the opposite from what people actually want, sitting around the camp fire discussing the merits of red wine over white wine, or a vegan diet over a lamb dhansak.

There is 3.2 kW for 18m2. So 178 W/m² A good module a decade ago would have been about the same (285W, 1m by 1.6) For the same amount of unshaded area a roof mounted system would take up 11m2. A circle of modules would have a diameter of about 3.7m (almost as wide as my house).

Not sure if it is as simple as just pipe length once adjusted for bends. The inlet air density will be pretty constant until it reaches the combustion chamber, the density is then greatly reduced, but as it exits the chamber it rapidly cools and becomes denser again. Cool it too much and it does not flow i.e. exhaust gases at same density as incoming air. There will also be an optimal inlet flow rate for maximum thermodynamic efficiency. Bends and elbows https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/minor-loss-air-ducts-fittings-d_208.html

No, but you may reduce the grid draw by whatever the PV is generating, but why would you fit a piddling, pathetic, cheap, instantaneous electric shower.

If you could get a second meter fitted, could you claim both to then, and get 2 400 quid grants.

Going to be more likely in some places.

Fantastic, they show the built in shading. All we need to go with it is a wind turbine that has blades designed similar to a sycamore seed.

Have you looked at the Passivhaus list. https://database.passivehouse.com/en/components/list/heat_pump

There is so much that is unknown that no recommendation can be given at this stage. First thing to do is the heat loss calculation for the house. Then an estimate of hot water usage.

Possibly, they may want to make friends with some great crested newts.

Welcome I suspect that once you start one job, you will find many things that need improving/repairing. You may be better off hanging back on things and starting to look carefully at what really needs doing. 5 of the 7 sockets not working could mean a major rewire, or something as simple deliberately disconnected circuit. Choose carefully where you spend your money, getting an old Victorian house comfortable and warm is not easy, but if most of the walls are going to be plastered, that is the time to do other improvements.

I have E7 on a non smart meter. EDF keep pressing me to get it changed, and I think next year the radio system that switches the supply is being turned off, so maybe they are not installing the old radio switches. I would call them up and ask.

What if there is a mass of them?

Or not at 85% efficiency. That is what it was capable of in ideal conditions, not one out in the wild.

One meaning is Humanity. Another is a Linux distribution. It is a totally free to use OS for PCs. Odd concept being free. If only there was open source building designs that worked.

If it is by the canal, sell the power, and mooring rights, to @JamesPa

You can get one.

I suspect, as I think has been mentioned before, that the 16 MWh estimate is wrong. At a SCoP of 3.6, your house is probably using 12 MWh a year. 25% less energy than the estimate.

@ReedRichards Just had a thought while I was up in the loft tidying. Too high a temperature is not really a problem as your system design can just use a temperature blending valve. So really the things to look at if seriously considering a Sunamp are the kWh price and the size they take up. You can always parallel them up for extra storage.

No idea. Ask their technical department or the technical sales at one of their agents. From my understanding, Sunamp lost the plot a few years back when they got involved with a large marketing company. @Andrew Bissell - Sunamp may still look on here, or not.

Should do. Just make sure wind blown rain is not a problem. And some small drain holes at the base for any liquid water.

That is odd as, with limited research, I was under the impression that scroll compressors did not have this problem, only the reciprocation ones. But at least you got to chat to someone that seemed to know about it. 6 kWh/day is double my current daily usage.

Yes. It is probably there as a secondary rain screen. There is some confusion about wall buildups because, in the USA, they frequently do the opposite to us. This is because they air condition their homes and the outside air is hot and humid. Some say that we need to treat sheds the same as they are unheated and our external air has high humidity. But as soon as it becomes a heated area, then water vapour needs to escape. This is why the most vapour resistant later us on the inside and each additional layer is less resistant. Not too much of a real problem when the recommended airchanges and working temperatures are well controlled.