SteamyTea

How much do you think will be exported and how much will you get paid of it? I have seen a 3 kW SMA inverter exporting 3.5 kW, the cooling fan was working hard.

More like 2mm thick. Lidl have some cordless angle grinders. I would go corded, a small one.

Or an A2AHP.

Is that one size screw fits all?

That is what I am pondering. My house is 4 meters wide and the roof is 4.5m along the hypotenuse. Now that does not give me me much area. But if I got modules that were a gnats under a metre, or two metre wide, I could do the full width. As it is a terrace, I am legally allowed to remove a bit of the neighbours roof and replace it (as long as it is done correctly to any MIs). With two rows of module, I may get over 3 kWp of PV up there. I will have to sketch up a simple GRP tray design when I get back onto the PC with CAD on it.

I may have missed this, but can you connect ~10 kWp, is easy with 3 phase but then that introduces self consumption challenges. Side question, how thick are the roof battens and the tiles?

Ventilation is built in when installed on a rail. The air below a module is subjected to less overall radiation that a normal roof because 20% of the energy is converted to electricity. There is a lot of nonsense spoken about the performance drop caused by module temperature, while it is true that there is a pretty linear drop off, it happens very really when you gauge it against the standard testing conditions i.e. 1000 W, 25°C 1.5 AM. We hardly every get that in the UK.

Main reason is that they need to allow water to flow over them without getting under any tiles. That is a pretty easy thing to mould in.

Basically yes. It would withstand the elements better than the original trays. There is stuff about that I made over 45 years ago. In reality the strays do net get much weathering, they are hidden below a PV module that reduces the temperature and blocks it from UV light. I have often wondered why a tray is needed. Why not just a sheet of plastic, then directly bolt the rails to the joists. Batten and tile the rest with some suitable flashing.

Would not be that difficult to cut and shunt a tray and reproduce it in GRP.

In The Archers, Phillip Moss got his slave to clean the glue off Grey Gables' kitchen floor with gasoline. It did not end well.

How many watts is the bathroom light? Say it is 10 W. If left on 24/7, that is around £30/year. Now change the build to a 6W one, £18/year. What can you do with £12/year? Don't think you are allowed to employ a child to turn the light off theses days.

Worth remembering that generally, a house gets warmer during the day with the extra human activity, maybe sime usable solar gain and warmer OAT. This means that as the day progresses, there are less thermal losses. A bit of extra warmth at 'getting up time' may be more useful. I think with modern house design, we have to get out of the habit of thinking that when the heating goes off, the internal temperature plummets. Even a mild thermal renovation on any old house will improve matters no end.

Except the electricity cost less at night, so raise the temperature and turn off during the day may be cheaper overall.

A Bluetooth detector maybe. Does depend where she usually leaves her phone.

Here is a spec sheet on them, https://www.batterystation.co.uk/content/datasheets_MSDS/energizer/Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA L92.pdf Can get 60 of them for 100 quid. https://www.batterystation.co.uk/energizer-ultimate-lithium-aaa-lr03-l92-batteries-50-pack/ I have no idea if that is a good price or not.

My concern is how much insulation is fitted under the floor. If there is not enough, it could be costly to run an ASHP.

What is needed is a chart with flow temperature, CoP and running hours in it. No point saving 0.5 of the CoP if the running time is double.

Do you mean ordinary UK building regs as published by the government? They are from here. https://www.gov.uk/government/collections/approved-documents And a few other relevant documents.

Flow temperatures come up a lot with heat pumps. Do you have a way of reading them reasonably well. With DHW, you need to take the temperature reading as it enters the cylinder as well as exiting the heat pump. There may be losses on the journey there.

Not really. Energy has to be transferred from the heating coil to the stored DHW, so there needs to be a temperature difference. This gets a bit more confused as if the return temperature is too high, or too low, efficiency is also lost. Generally there will not be much of a difference as there is not much of a difference in temperature (well not where I am, but other places may be larger). I heat my water so that the heating period finished (I am on E7 to) as close to the time I want to use the water. This reduces the thermal losses from the cylinder. That is easy for me to do as I live alone, not so easy for a family.

That is not going to help. Do you know the flow temperatures for space and DHW heating?

Keep the number plates on it, and the tyres pumped up, and there really can't be much of an argument that it is a touring van. What are you going to do about security? gas bottles are easily moved.

Sad isn't it. I was chatting to the guy that owns the house next door 2 days ago (he rents it out). Delivery van turns up, spent 5 minutes doing a delivery and a pick-up. All that time the engine was ticking over. Hard to believe that diesel is £1.52/litre.

Can you jack/crowbar it up an inch or two, then squirt some Lumberjack PU under it. It expands slightly so will fill the gaps up nicely.