SteamyTea

Or better still, pick a thermal performance, then find a way to build to that price. Easy to save £60k by getting sensible kitchen and bathrooms, rather than showroom fancy ones.

Or better still, pick a thermal performance, then find a way to build to that price. Easy to save £60k by getting sensible kitchen and bathrooms, rather than showroom fancy ones.

I just use a spreadsheet. Easy enough to get the thermal properties of the materials. Then you can do side by side comparisons easily.

Just noticed in your in Suffolk. Plenty of 'retro' practices next door in Norfolk, should be able to import some cheap labour from there.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pumps-power-d_505.html

Can you make a water tower, then fill as fast as practical? Thinking outside the box, how about a ram pump. Pump 10 litres into it and the optimum flow rate, and get 1 litre at the head you are after. (the key is the optimum flow rate)

Copied from here. https://www.swiftglass.com/blog/key-differences-transmission-transmittance-apply-application Transmittance refers to the amount of light energy that the glass absorbs, scatters, or reflects. It’s measured using the formula T = I/I0, with T denoting the transmission intensity, I indicating intensity, and I0 indicating intensity at the start. This calculation allows you to determine the ratio of transmitted radiant power to incident radiant power, giving a greater idea of a glass’s ability to block photons.

Run the numbers on the different thicknesses, it is the only way to work out the best solutions.

Too true. My living room is basically a corridor as it has a staircase in it. Your bedroom is almost have the size of my whole house.

Once the U-value is established, then we can discuss condensation points.

It used to be. Would make my house a Passivhaus as I only use 8 W/m².year for heating.

Can it not be picked off? Or maybe filed away.

Passivhaus use primary energy, not delivered energy. So if all electric, and you import 1 MWh per year, and the factor is 2.4, then you divide 2.4 MWh by your area.

Welcome. Reducing energy usage is really quite simple, the science is basic and understood well. As @Iceverge says, there is probably no environmental advantages using "traditional" materials, and an awful lot of BS said about them. We all like seeing pictures, so get a time lapse camera set up.

Untill suppliers let you down.

If you can build a large enough, temporary, shed on the plot, and get power to it, why not build your own panels. A large bench and a couple of RSJ to make a jig from is about all you need to get started.

Almost certainly not. Mainly because the phase transition temperature would need to be dynamic. Maybe a ceiling fan in the colder room would shift enough warm air downwards to raise the temperature enough.

Why not just wire in a commando socket alongside the charger?

A thermal diode. You can make your own. They are basically a pipe, part filled, with a low boiling point fluid. Stick the bottom part in the hot area, let the fluid change to a vapour, collect the energy at the top of the pipe and transport away. It is how the element in evacuated tube solar thermal systems work.

Advection. This means physically moving a mass about that has different thermal properties. The rest of us know it as blowing warm air about.

U = 1 /(L / k) Where L is length/thickness. Units are W/m².K

k for conductance R for resistivity U for thermal transmittance.

Yes. R is quite simple as it just allows for the thickness of the material, really just a stepping stone between k-value and U-value. Just be wary that imperial units are often used, they will give odd results.

Daily standing charge. I went out with Noah's wife.

Yes. The VCL needs to be sealed at all edges/interfaces. Treat it as just another R-value to add to the others. The reason it changes with temperature is to do with convection, but not worth calculating really, just pick the worse values.