SteamyTea

Is this they type if thing that the builder's PI insurance will cover?

Meant to reduce noise by 40 dB or so, but that is very subjective (why there are different decibel scales). You can get acoustic plasterboard. Or headphones and slippers, all conversation by text. But as you get older, you go deaf anyway, and forgetful.

There was a statement from someone that at very low RPM/Phase Change pressures that the pump seals can fail. You also find that when the modulation i.e. pressure difference, is very small, the refrigerant condenses/evaporates in the wrong part of the unit. There is a lot made of gas boilers modulating to very low outputs, but I wonder how efficient they really are at the extremes. I can easily modulate the power output of my car by driving up a steep hill, in 6th gear, with my foot flat to the floor. Low power, extremely poor fuel efficiency. (on that note, yesterday I got 73 MPG over 550 miles, which is about 600 Wh/mile. Only about double what an EV uses)

Will it be worth more with a shiny coat on it.

Yes, just reread what you typed yesterday. It really comes down to your room by room heat losses, that will set how much energy is transferred between rooms/outside. Then you need to look at the most suitable insulation/sound proofing and floor finish. Sound proofing does not have to be 'all in the floor'. Plasterboard hanging from resilience bars can improving this.

Is that because someone measured incorrectly? The joists twist may or may not be a problem. Ideally the forces need to go directly though the web, the greater the twist, the less load the joist can take, which causes buckling. Buckling tends to be a catastrophic failure, not just a bit of extra 'bounce'. This is because as the sin of the angle increases, the sideward forces increase (or is it the cosine, makes no difference, it is the angle that is important). I would not be happy (structurally) with walls in the wrong place, twisted joists and brackets not fitted right. You seem to be doing the right things in involving the manufacturer, builder and possibly a SE.

Two houses, or two wives then. (I am actually not sure what I mean, is this about adding upstairs radiators to the existing ground floor UFH)

That is a good question. Like all good questions, there is not a simple answer as there are several interactions taking place at one time. The simplest answer is that it is down to the power delivery (the W/m2). That can be increased or decreased in two ways, pump more energy in (closer pipes) or raise the temperature (for the same size pipes). In reality though, which is where it gets complicated, are the physical characteristics of the systems. You cannot easily have pipes sitting next to each other as that would need a huge manifold for dozens of pipes to connect to. You cannot have too high a temperature as you would not be able to stand on the floor, and the efficiency of the heat source may suffer. You cannot change the weather, which is very dynamic, so you have to accept some compromise (an emergency fan heater). The temperature difference between the flow and return (in and out of the time) needs to be within a sensible limit (you cannot extract all the energy supplied), this limits pipe diameter and pump size. The more complicated answer is that as temperature rise and fall is not linear, even of it looks like it at small temperature changes. As temperatures rise, so do loses, as it falls, the opposite happens until you get to parity (Laws of Thermodynamics explains it all).

Not heard of any. More to the point, why do you need to know about different types, you have what you already have.

No, it needs to be applied as a hot process. It is not expensive.

Galvanisation

Exactly. There is a certain amount of self healing with galvanising as well. Why it is used so much in the marine environment.

That is an understatement. It is piss poor and needs to be replaced with a Google site search.

That's interesting. The only installation I have looked at closely had the EV on the hit side, which I thought a bit silly.

Not sure if that is sensible from a safety perspective. The idea is that overheated water, or steam even, can easily vent away. There is probably not enough water in the pipe to loose much via convection currents. Realistically, the largest thermal losses are down the drain.

So a vast improvement over last year. https://www.theguardian.com/business/article/2024/sep/03/renewable-energy-auction-windfarms-tidal-power

UVC have a pipe coming out the top that goes to the expansion chamber. I don't think the thermal losses need be any different in a proper installation. I have never had a UVC, but have had combis, and they have been rubbish. With a vented system you do not need them signed off for building control or insurance.

There was a radio comedy play about the financial crisis. It was based in Ireland, so it seems real life is imitating art.

Mine as well. Kind of a poor man's solar thermal.

I just downloaded the OPs pdf file, converted it, and then opened it up. Took all of 5 minutes.

Cost me about £600 to do my Part P. Some areas with skill shortages offer it for less. I would have had to join a professional body, get hold of the testing equipment to do a proper install, but if you are a 'handy' person , then we'll worth looking at it as a possibility. You can then use your own installation as your competence evidence. Then, on free Saturdays, start charging people £400 to fix a light.

Just tried it at https://cadsofttools.com/pdf-to-dwg-online/ Then opened it with LibreCad portable. Something with lines on it was there.

Gloomsbury. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01n2t25

Welcome. There are a couple, or more, people on here with old Landrovers. Between you, you will almost have enough to make a working one. As for blown beads. Work on the airtightness first. While you are doing that, try and find a supplier of them. Seems individuals have had trouble getting them.

There are quite a few free CAD software packages for Windows and Linux, if you have a Mac, tough. Here is just one. https://www.freecad.org/ Or a portable version. https://portableapps.com/apps/graphics_pictures/librecad-portable