SteamyTea

Look for any sources of liquid water. These could be water pipes, gutters, down pipes, ground level above a damp proof course. Condensation is generally caused by a cold internal wall, so may be low levels of insulation, or very high humidity, as in a bathroom.

Have you thought of making your own?

@Colink Will be here be enough room to fit pipes, and insulated them in a false cavity? Many people think that it is not worth insulting pipework unless it is also used as cooling. I disagree with that (not the cooling) as you just end up overheating an area with lower thermal resistance to outside. The whole idea of the vapour control layer is to stop warm, moist air condensing in a cold cavity. If you do get to 0 ACH, then you have a nice problem to deal with, just fit mechanical ventilation and heat recovery. Your son really will wish that he removes all the old plasterboard, increases the stud depth, fit his news central heating pipes (properly insulated, a well taped VCL and new plasterboard (possibly in resilience bars). I is very little extra work and will be a lot easier for a much better job.

Thanks, just leave out the odd indices, then it becomes a lot shorter

Integration, in mathematics, is continuous addition. So I suspect that it works in a similar way as a heating controller. It keeps adding, or subtracting, until the desired outcome is reached. The outcome will be one of at least 3 bounds, the other two will be minimum and maximum output if the unit. The unit controller will probably have an initial set point (in the middle of the performance curve) and then is manually set to add, or subtract 'degree minutes'. Degree minutes are the product of the temperature and the time it is delivered i.e. multiply flow temperature by how long the system is delivering (it may be the difference between flow and return as that is the energy delivered). The same can be achieved by simply switching the system on and off for varying amounts of time, but that is inefficient with a heat pump (but works well with a resistance heater).

I don't think so as there is only a tiny amount of hydrogen produced. If aluminium and concrete produced lots of hydrogen, the worlds energy crisis would be over. I would think that the biggest problem is liquid water, it is not called the universal solvent for nothing. This will, in time, break down near enough all materials, with polyurethanes being one of the faster ones. I don't think this is a problem for housing though.

The wiring goes in 'safe zones' so check with an electrician. Plumbers tend to put pipes all over the place, so check with a plumber, though you will probably only need standard 15mm. Don't confuse the lower flow temperature with lower output, it is more complicated than that. As for insulation, basically the same build-up, but thicker. No need to use a foil backed, or insulated plasterboard, the VCL does that. A VCL (it is usually a sheet of polythene that is taped to make an airtight 'bag') is to stop moist air migrating to a colder area and condensing, it is not for improving wind tightness. Wind and airtightness need to be dealt with separately and go on the cold side. They are vapour 'open' to allow moisture to evaporate away to the outside. Basically the warm side i.e inside, is the most vapour proof, then as you go towards the cold side i.e. outside, you allow more vapour open materials. This allows any moisture to evaporate to atmosphere and not cause condensation related problems.

Don't listen to that tosser, he just likes spouting off.

Assuming that internal space will not be compromised, just remove all the stuff, existing plasterboard, VCL and insulation. Make the sheathing as airtight as possible i.e. perfect. Then increase stud depth, reinsulate, VCL and all plumbing and wiring that needs changing. Sometimes it is just easier and cheaper to start again.

I have never measured a sheet of foam insulation across the diagonal, how accurately are they cut. Most 'foams' will shrink over time.

If the roof is sloping towards the south, have you considered solar, either PV, ST or both? PV is the easy and cheap one and could part charge, and sometimes fully charge a 100 lt DHW cylinder. But as you already have a 10mm cable, you can run a 45A load with very little losses ~1V. My DHW is a simple gravity fed, 210 lt, Economy 7 cylinder with a 3 kW heater in it. I pump both the cold and hot and have a good shower.

Not really, because as you rightly point out, our infrastructure is now out of date. Eventually there has to be some individual responsibility to help out the rest of society. It is why we have laws. If you take an easy, but poor argument, using a motoring analogy, I have never had an accident when travelling over 90 MPH, so why can I not always drive over 90? Even if I do have a catastrophic accident at high speed, the sum of the energies would still, probably, be less than all the lower speed accidents I have had. So on balance I would do less overall damage.

The combination of TF and blown cellulose insulation is very good for both thermal and sound transmission. Possibly the lowest mainstream embodied energy and carbon construction. (It is very easy to fudge embodied numbers, so take all of them with a very large punch of salt)

Because it is an undervalued resource that lottery gets flushed down the bog, which then causes problems downstream, literally. We spend, as a nation,a fortune treating waste water, much of it untreated rain water, so that it can enter rivers and the sea. When the system fails, usually because of excess rainfall, the consequences are quite extreme.

I use a small, cheap shower pump on my gravity fed system. Most people comment how good the shower is. Think I have about 1.5 m of head. Two things to be wary of us running the F&E dry, causing an airlock, and the more serious one if causing negative pressure in a cheap copper cylinder, causing it to buckle.

Being on the same level does not affect it. It is not a gravity fed system. Assuming your mains water comes in greater than 3 bar and there is a decent flow rate (this is the important thing really, the dynamic flow rate), then it should not be a problem. In reality we all need to use a lot less water, I use way too much at about 170 lt/day.

Say you considered the CO2 levels too high, apart from increasing that rooms ACH, not much else can be done about it.

The difference between SIP and TF is how the structural loads are distributed. Structural Insulated Panel Timber Frame There are many different ways to design with each.

I would have thought that checking the room flow rates and keeping the filters clean would be the best way.

Why not use a home made one.

There used to be (30 years ago) a quarry on Portland that could sort out just about anything. Just don't say the word "rabbit" as they are as mad as they come there.

You could knock up your own test heat exchanger. A simple pipe in pipe design would give you an idea of how much energy, and at what temperatures, you are likely to actually get.

Yes they should, but most CPD I have done (as a teacher/lecturer) was very low quality.

Yes, basically what the recent Grenfell fire report said. Unprofessional bunch of tosses.

I don't know, why I asked. But my car insurance cover the damage I do to others when I get totally shitfaced and plough into a building full of children, disabled children, some who have red hair.