SteamyTea

I haven't, against popular misconception, I don't really take pleasure in others misfortune.

First two of them are not essential, third is debatable. Maybe look at what you really do need i.e. heat, light, cooking, the rest can be disconnected for several hours without impacting anything.

So how much insulation is in the existing foundation?

Good job they never installed the 300 GW of renewables then, that alone would have powered the UK 4 times over. Oh hang on. https://www.spglobal.com/commodityinsights/en/market-insights/latest-news/energy-transition/020824-infographic-china-solar-capacity-coal-electricity-renewable-energy-hydro-wind

The last coal fired generation plant was switched off 6 hours ago, for good.

I stopped reading when I got to the line that they work like fridges in reverse. Actually I didn't, but there was no mention of planning permission being needed.

Welcome I am not self building, and would be very reluctant to do so. If you look at a lot of the posts, and tease out the fees people pay, you will find that they are often very high. When those fees i.e. ecology, road access, service connections, etc are taken into account, they can be a large percentage of the price on a small project. It is probably why refurbishment is a better option, but even that can incur high professional fees.

I think a wooden floor/laminate should be treated like a carpet, of the very reason that @Gus Potter says, you may need to remove it. UFH complicates this, but I am sure there are 'underlays' that have high thermal conductivity. A polypropylene ones maybe.

As @Onoff says.

Can you not add in a secondary heat pump, maybe some simple A2A ones. I run my whole house of about £600 of electricity, a year. Have you looked at your half hourly usage date from your smart meter?

Maybe not the best comparison. The garage may well have apprentices that do work on the car, just as an architectural office will have trainees and lower qualified employees working on customers' projects. It is really about management and supervision. Transparency is a different thing.

If you fit LED lighting in a ceiling, you need to make sure they can cool correctly. The light fitting manufactures will show minimum clearances, but they are just that, minimum dimensions.

Continuous usage rating is 10A.

Warm roof and put an MVHR extractor vent in. I think that is what @joe90 did and his loft was very comfortable to be in.

Welcome I like the idea of a restaurant raised up high to get views. There is a place near me that has a great view of a carpark, but non of the sea less than 100 metres away. Have you thought about disable access, we are reviewing all ours at the moment. Judging by the playground in front of the place, what sort of sound proofing you going to need. As for flood prevention, that is a hard one. I think you have to accept that it will get flooded by a storm surge (was 7 metres in Florida a day ago). ICF does seem a solution to this, but then you have to look at what type of foundation system is acceptable for your ground conditions.

That is because we don't have receptors to feel moisture in out fingers, all we feel is temperature and surface texture, then out brains fill in the rest from past experienced. As long as your loft is properly ventilated, I doubt you will have a problem.

Avoid married women from Bristol

Exactly. They say the best way to learn is from YOUR mistakes.

It is to do with energy, 1/2 mass times velocity squared. So the bigger the difference in initial speed, the greater the amount of energy to dissipate. Then there is wind resistance, which works in your favour at higher speeds, the faster you go, the greater the resistance, (air resistance = air density x drag x area / 2) x velocity squared. Then there is aerodynamic forces that affect the vehicle, most cars produce lift at the rear end, this gets worse the faster you go. Then, just for a laugh, there is the braking forces, which changes the axle weigh (remember that weight is mass times acceleration). As you brake hard, more force is put on the front axle, which causes a greater force on the tyres, which then deform, increasing the contact area. Now at normal speeds, this does not make any difference as friction is just the coefficient times the force, but at high speeds, it does as the tyres can quickly change shape (ripple). As a general rule, if your driving goes Pete Tong, in any situation, hit the brakes as hard as possible, it scrubs of speeds, lowering the energy on impact (I went backwards into a tyre wall at over 90 MPH at Thruxton, was airborne and the steering and brakes did (expletive deleted) all, did not stop me trying to use them). I last got caught in 2002, was doing 94 on the A11 near Snetterton. They are usually used to tractors throwing carrots out the back. £270 fine and 5 points. Failed to turn up in court as I was working in the USA, so kept my licence (apparently to be banned you had to appear, or be represented, in court). So in the last 22 years, I have probably driven 700,000 miles. I drive like my Mother, but that is another story. Yesterday I drove 600 miles, got 68 MPG and my average speed was 51 MPH. That is 12 hours of my life I am never getting back.

They seem low readings, but I very much doubt they are in the danger zone. As the building is quite old, there is almost certainly no vapour control layer between the living area and the loft. This will allow higher humidity air to migrate into the colder loft and condense, the formula is simple. T(dew point) = T(air) - 100-RH(air) / 5

Yes, just realised that, was a long day driving yesterday and I think I may go back to bed to sleep it off.

I am actually being a bit dumb this morning, just fit PV, that will take out 20% of the IR on the sunniest days, and nothing on the coldest night.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan–Boltzmann_law

Easy, just look at the number of posts on here from different members. @thefoxesmaltings 136 @Pocster 12.3k @SteamyTea 20.5k If you want to build a house, don't join this site.

It is almost certainly a mismatch between the base resin used with the glass fibre and the top coat. should not be a problem structurally, but then it should not be leaking. The easy way to fix it is to use a polyurethane coating. Something like this. https://www.topseal.co.uk/topseal-pu/