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Unless you are needing to put a new treatment plant in exactly the same place, I would just get it pumped out (deslusged) and fill it in with something.

All that stressing over getting BSO down... Well, today he came for initial inspection.. couldnt have been more wrong to what I was fearing... He said or advised that it is perfectly acceptable to concrete the floor as follows: Chuck in hardcore and compact. Chuck in soft sand and compact. Lay 1200g membrane. Lay insulation layer including perimeter insulation all the way round outside. Get BCO to do their inspection. Lay 100mm concrete slab and THATS IT. Regarding other works he advised exactly the way I was going to do it anyway... so I guess it was definitely good value in that works will be signed of by building regs...

Why are some of the steel webs missing on some of the posijoists? From the photo, it looks like some joists only have metal webs on one side, not both.

This thread is like groundhog day.................................. Do what Nick says!

Other than being a messy job with a tatty sideways socket theres probably not a lot wrong with it. If there's significant steam and grease exiting the hood then you'll have other problems beyond the socket. But you could always fit a short piece of ducting past the socket if it worries you.

It's a sh!t job that. Aside from the socket on its side. The guides to the building regs state any switches sockets should be 300mm away from the edge of a hob. So if you need to isolate you don't have to lean over the possibly on fire hob. In your case you'll have to stand on a chair.....if you can see for smoke! The switch for the extractor should be off to one side above the worktop within easy reach.

The ones I've chosen are solid brass stems with chrome coating on them, and a pushfit connector, a little more expensive but should look nicer overall, then I'll put some chrome pipe cover on the little section of copper which will be showing, or paint it with some kind of chrome paint, I'll make sure it looks good either way :-) Infact, I've even found a white one: https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/hep2o-spigot-elbows/ but they are plastic, i'd rather the brass one for the compression as you say

London clay is very definitely a soil type that moves a lot with variation in moisture content, so needs care with the foundation design to reduce the risk of movement. You can use a raft or slab foundation on clay, but you won't be able to get it that close to the 1m limit, as it will have to have a fairly deep layer of well-drained stone underneath it to spread the load out and down to reduce the soil bearing stress and ultimately limit any movement the clay could induce in the slab. I think that a piled solution is far and away your best bet, given your space constraints. Piles are pretty much the classic way of getting around London clay heave and would allow you to get the ring beam that supports that outer wall right up to your 1m limit. You can put an insulated slab on top of a piled ring beam, plus there are several other options that could be explored. I don't think that the suggestion you have at the moment from your SE is at all sensible, given the site limitations. The SE has used what seems to be a fairly standard solution for the soil type, but hasn't taken account of your site restrictions, from the sound of it. Much as I'm a great fan of insulated slab foundations, there are places where they cannot be easily used, and in your case, with the need to have a vertical load bearing foundation along a 1m line, with nothing going over that line, you are going to find that you're pretty much forced into using piles, I think. There are lots of piling systems around, ranging from driven steel piles, conventional bored and reinforced concrete poured piles to helical screw piles. The fastest to put in and most probably the ones that would get you closest to your 1m limit, may well be helical screw piles. I looked at using them on a previous plot we were looking to buy and was impressed. It's well-proven technology (some Victorian piers are still standing on ancient cast iron screw piles) and it's a clean and quick solution, with minimal excavation or soil disturbance. It's also a system that is immediately load bearing, so the house can literally be put on the piles as soon as they are driven in.

Ok. If it's a rental and you want to 'economise' then go for an Ideal. For the money they're a great little boiler and we've done loads with zero comebacks, mostly budget private or landlords. ? Are you replacing a wall hung boiler or back boiler with firefront? Assuming the former.

On my beloved, since sold to buy my first van ?, Yamaha / kef setup I just smiled to myself every time I wound it up. Yamaha DSP A1 ( still got my A2 now as it's pretty hard to get the power ), Kef speakers :- 104.2 front 95.2 ctr 35's front effect 65's rear Mate wouldn't sell me his Velodyne marble sub, but with 110w per channel RMS bi-amped into the 104.2's you couldn't keep your lunch down. Neighbour the other side of the main road asked me once if I'd just watched Black Hawk Down. I said why? She replied "cos the fackin helicopter sounded like it was landing in my back garden". Tres bien.

Re karndean, There are some new click together vinyl planks that are an easy diy job and as a floating floor system are easy to take up when the need arises, they say its waterproof so id agree be aware the concrete will not be dry for a looong time and vinyl will trap the moisture. Having fitted karndean and the click planks i would never use karndean again , for one its impossible to remove and the prep has to be perfect. The click stuff sits on a thin underlay, quite forgiving as its about 5mm thick and works out way cheaper with arguably a better immitation of wood finnish.