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Probably better with the lights on properly......

Painted hardwood is not a bad option tbph, and, as said, allows one to paint accordingly, rather than be stuck with whatever options are available with the plastic / PVC / metal 'generic' trims. I've seen wooden quadrant used in a half-height tiled bathroom, not wetroom, and it looked / worked very well. I am very much a fan of a pukka polished chrome ( mirror chrome not cheap ass aluminium stuff ) tile trim, but be ready to fork out £25-£50 and upwards per 2.5m length depending on size. Many people will instantly choke on that and say they're not paying those prices, but when your in the finished room looking at them, it's very hard to deny that they look absolutely stunning.

May be worth doing it with a upvc profile if it's that small ..??

That's the point I was making above. The time constant of both the slab and the thermal balance of the house (less solar gain) are very large. Any room stat no matter how accurate used in on-off mode could be unstable from a control perspective, IMO. If you are going to use the room stat then you need to smooth it to a similar time constant to the slab's -- well within a factor of 2 or so. As I've said in other posts I want to run our house for the first year or so with a very simplified but instrumented control regime. My initial approach will be simple, that is to use an electric inline heater to N kWhr into the slab each night during the economy 7 window (shifted to the end of the window) during periods of net heating, where N is my calculated average daily heat deficit for the house, given the daily average outside temp. I estimate that this will result in a ripple of less than 2°C in the room temp in the colder months. (I will use the MVHR bypass to dump excess heat in net cooling months.) This might not be perfect but its going to a huge step improvement over our current house, and this will allow me to collect enough data to design and select my final solution. We are still fitting out the house at the moment so it's unheated, but we've got a small domestic dehumidifier (~300W max) running in the loft to dry out the plaster and painting and this is chuffing out enough heat to keep the whole loft at a comfortable temperature.

A good plumber should fit an unslotted waste on this type of basin eliminating the possibility of anyone shutting the waste and flooding the basin. The clou system wont overflow. In the off position water simply drains down the waste. In the 'on' position the waste still visibly stays open but the lever action activates a valve which redirects water flow to a level set by the user. This allows the basin to fill up to the set point after which water simply enters the basin, flows down the waste over the hidden overflow and down the drain. Its a very clever system.

When I first started looking into this, I'm sure I found a supplier that did mixers that went below 25C, but I don't recall who they were, sorry. I thought I'd give it a go with the standard setup first and so far it's been fine.

I too love the idea of a simple system and I am currently trying to plan mine for installation later this year. Like Peter I also read about the floor one degree above what room temp you want but I am planning to run the ASHP during the night on E7 to wake up with a warm house and only turn it on during the day if required because of very cold weather so I might go for 23-25. I suppose if the mixer on the manifold will only go so low but the ASHP will go lower then the lowest temp rules!. A very good thread which I am following with great interest.

I have to admit I'm NOT a DeWalt fan but bought one of their right angle drill attachments on a special a while back for something ridiculous like £12.99. Just bought another for a good mate (who's a die hard DeWalt fan) from FFX albeit at a higher price. http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Dewalt-Dt71517T-Qz-5035048089798-Right-Angle-Torsion-Drill-Attachment?gclid=CK_tkPflz9ACFRLgGwodAGAK-Q The reason for posting is I've not been able to find cheaper so this seems the best deal. Second, the thing is nigh on bulletproof. Not sure of the max torque it takes but I've really been giving it some beans. Seems really strongly made. It's much slimmer too than "proper" right angled drills. It takes btw ONLY hex screwdriver type bits. (I've hex ended drills, c'sink bits, socket adapters and so on I use with it ). Wish I'd bought two or more when on a special! One thing is that IMHO the bits that come with it sit in maybe a tad too far.

Ok, well excuse the mess and the ensuite door that is sat under the stairs, moved in on Saturday but some trades still doing final pieces..... I need to give the glass a good clean, and I m having a white powder coated plate to go just above the top tread to hide the joist:floor build up that needs to go on.