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And for @Construction Channel Benefit or anyone else who wants to boycott SF, it's £6.21 in Toolstation at the moment http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+%26+Decorating/d150/Fillers+%26+Putty/sd3169/Toupret+Interior+Filler/p63284

Ok, well excuse the mess and the ensuite door that is sat under the stairs, moved in on Saturday but some trades still doing final pieces..... I need to give the glass a good clean, and I m having a white powder coated plate to go just above the top tread to hide the joist:floor build up that needs to go on.

a very wet room Do you struggle with empathy Dave? Wives, children, plughole fairies, you name it. Still, I'd have to be convinced that a typical overflow will discharge the equivalent of mains pressure water as it is direct delivered. Said wives, children, plughole fairies only operate quarter-turn taps in a binary fashion. 0 = tap off 1 = flooding the bathroom with splashback

I was working today on a new build that was having the "professionally" designed and installed heating system commissioned,so I took some time to have a look and talk to the guys. It was a Mitsubishi ASHP coupled to a "pre plumbed" Mitsubishi cylinder and controls. The nuggets of information I gleaned, in no particular order were: The tank was an unvented cylinder for hot water only. Heated to 45 degrees by the heat pump. Once every 3 weeks, on a day of the week of your choosing, it automatically uses the immersion heater to raise the tank to 60 degrees for an hour as an anti legionella measure. Because of the low grade heat input, they said it would require too large a heat input coil, so it used a plate heat exchanger to heat the tank. The UFH runs directly from the heat pump. No buffer tank. It either runs DHW or heating, never both together. When in heating mode, the heat pump runs at a low temperature which you can set. They say this obviates the need for UFH mainifolds with temperature control, instead you can use a dumb manifold (cheaper) and just dial up the flow temperature you want for the UFH in the heat pump controller. The outside unit ran very quietly, and I didn't see it icing up or needing to defrost, it was about 3 degrees today. I was particularly interested in the no buffer tank, and direct operation of the UFH with a dumb manifold. Certainly something to think about.

Get some pipe felt and put it between the strap and the pipe. Learned that from the plumbers!

Yes, and I'd forgotten to recharge the vessel after the initial round of bleeding. It doesn't have a gauge but charging it up seemed to do the trick. Thanks Peter!

I checked with my local building rega and they were happy with 12 mm toughened. Will take a picture in a bit if anyone is interested in how it finished up after?

You could do this for a living The max separation distance I can get is just over 1m (or a bit more if the inlet is slightly lower down). I had a chat with BPC about this and they've said it'll be fine - and that I should angle the inlet cowl away from the exhaust! So, panic over

My plan is to use the call for heat function from the master controller / stat, but keep the heating pump circulating so that the slab temp is nice and even. As per your comments, I plan to run the slab as near as I can to room temperature. It will no doubt take a bit of trial and error to work out the optimum settings. http://www.seconsolar.com/ekmps/shops/seconsolar/resources/Other/secon-heat-pumps-v8.4-a4x6pp-jan16.pdf

I'd put one in regardless. It may not be a requirement, but nothing to stop you submitting additional supporting information.

It's interesting that we are talking about the abstract concepts out there. I agree, not many people can afford these but certainly makes for a fascinating viewing. Working on one of these 'TV property programmes', I see a lot of people striving to input their unique ideas so as to be less of a clone of others around them but it has to always come back to budget! Is it your dream home if it's hell to get to it?

I recently tested the overflow on a WC cistern and it didn't cope with the fill rate. Had to fit a reducer.

Is that training for you or her? (I think we know the answer)

I have one of those. The standing joke (although I'm certainly not laughing) is that I'd come home from work in winter to find literally every single light in the house on! I'd spend the first five minutes going around turning off lights that were on in rooms that no-one had entered for hours. I get that the kids don't pay attention but it drives me mental that my wife just doesn't see this. It's the same with the dishwasher - she'll put it on at 10 o'clock in the evening in summer, when it's dark, rather then the next day when we may have several excess kilowatts being producing from the PV for several hours. Or she'll put it on 75% full right before we sit down to dinner! I've managed to claw a bit back recently by changing the programming on our home automation system. Now, the utility room, bathrooms, and the kids' bedrooms are on timers. Since I'm the only one who can program it, there's nothing they can do about it! Oh, and I've also installed an "all off upstairs" switch in a central downstairs position, and an "all off downstairs" switch in a central upstairs position. Very convenient way of turning off an entire floor's worth of lighting, and something worth considering if you'd doing home automation.

Here you go.. A waste with hidden overflow.. http://www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk/ideal-standard-idealflow-hidden-basin-overflow-assembly-chrome-n8326aa-31883-p.asp

+1 VAT is only zero rated on new builds and conversions. Even then hard landscaping is only zero rated if it's detailed on the planning permission.

If it's a new build the contractor should zero rate his work and claim the VAT back on materials, this is what my builder is doing.