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I guess it's a classic case of "each to their own". My wife can't abide "stuff" or "personal effects" on display. To own them is fine, to display them is just wrong. Even books must be hidden. As for my office......well that's off limits and can best be described as "Devine Chaos"

FFS it's only been 3 months since the last update! Well it fits: Needs drilling thru and bolting. Then sanding and painting. Might put a groove in for his tablet at the front if the MDFs thick enough. Hands free viewing and all that.....

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FYI the video shows the mdpe pipe acting exactly as the accumulator would, just with near zero means to hold the pressure for any meaningful period. The pipe is swelling slightly under static pressure and 'inflating' ever so slightly. The tap being opened just releases that tiny bit of stored energy and then it's back to normal dynamic potential. The accumulator would offer a means to store that energy but with much greater capacity and sustain.

The dynamic pressure and dire flow rate are irrelevant as you know you need to reinforce it by whatever means . Id fit an accumulator, as Dave says, and size it around 500ltr ( so around 300ltr useable water volume ) and fit a pressure reducing valve set to around 4.5 bar. The important thing now is to plumb the house accordingly in anticipation of an acc being installed. Can you get a pipe between the garage and the house easily enough so the vessels can go in the garage out of the way?

Just accept Open Reach, rather ironically, are hopeless at communication. Next time you are passing by, retrieve the bit of rope that you kindly lent to them, and move on to do more important things with your life. When the rain gets in, and something stops working, a fault will be reported and they will fix it. Eventually.

that was the mix we used to "imitate" lime mortar, It all depends on the look you are going for, (soft washed sand is what they would use for rendering) we had some fairly long panels and i never saw any of them crack due to movement so i assume the mix is flexible enough, we used to lay them to a line (none of this scaffold board rubbish ), so each flint has to be structurally sound or it would just slide off. If you are going to be making a "pre made" panel you may want something stickier to hold them all together.

A TS will best deal with the rads / Ufh mix, and you may want to improve that with a separate coil in the TS to supply heat to the rads. That'll enable you to isolate the Ufh and therefore not allow any ferrous particulate ( rust / corrosion ) to contaminate the Ufh and associate components. That would create a separate circuit which would require its own filling loop / PRV / and exp vessel but would ensure the water stayed clean in the Ufh system, which it wouldn't do in a conventional 'mixed' setup. Contamination in a mixed system can be managed with inhibitors and a good maintenance schedule, but will not remove all of the problem like isolating it would. Consider slightly oversizing the rads and running them off an Ufh manifold to get the flow temp down so the rads run at a lower flow temp as you'll not want the rads running of the TS direct because then they'll be at the boiler flow temp which, with a TS, would be uncomfortably / unnecessarily hot in a well insulated house Running off an Ufh manifold will easily allow integration of individual room stats in each bedroom / space served by rads for total comfort control and will prevent any unoccupied spaces from getting heated when not required. I've done these setups before, exactly like this, and they work really well, just depends on how much control you do / don't want.

I do question the logic by your architect here .... By just doing the roof make up suggested - and at this point the focus is on thermal efficiency not air tightness - you would end up with a roof value of 0.11. If you then add a 32.5mm insulated plasterboard you are at 0.1 at a future point. The key is air tightness and doing the partial fill at rafter and sealing either with a VCL or taping the joints will give you that - your other choice to get to a 0.12 would be 400mm of rock wool at ceiling height which scuppers your idea of converting at a later date.