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The structural engineer may not want to advise as it's a finishing screed not structural. That happened me on a few jobs and the contractor won't make any decisions in case something goes wrong and has to dig it out and redo it. They'll give advice but you can be sure they won't take any responsibility for its design. It's left to the architect but they may not have experience with them. What's the thickness of the polished concrete and what are you using to reinforce it. Don't use steel mesh unless the whole project is very carefully planned and I've seen the metal fibres show in the finish a bit. If using the plastic fibres then cut the slab at every 6 meters and under all doors the day after pouring about 30mm deep into the slab with an angle grinder. They can be filled later with mastic. Keep the cut areas square and large. Long thin ones can crack in the middle and small squares can rock like paving slabs. Do you have any columns or other structural walls protruding into the space. You may need additional crack joints near or inline with these. Also are the walls smooth? We had one project with rough stone walls so the edge perimeter insulation has to be thicker to allow for the undulating surface and avoid cracking. Make sure the perimeter insulation isn't rigid too as it needs to be able to compact and move if required.

New video on Sunamp from the guys at Fully Charged:

I'd wait for the planners to raise the issue rather then raising it yourself.

How about some sort of film that can be removed of changed later? You can get some that makes it look like the glass has been etched, perhaps with something like a band with a tree/vine pattern that adds a level of obscurity just at head height with clear glass above and below. Used a lot on office partitions. Another option might be an internal screen/blind installed a few inches inboard from the window. Lets the light in which heats the screen. When they know you better it can be disappeared? It's possible you may need some sort of blind or screen anyway if you get too much solar gain in summer. Likewise curtains in winter to cut down heat loss or provide you with extra privacy at night when you are backlit?

@Nickfromwales Lightweight.

I've bought Grohe cisterns. The've not been fitted yet but seem good enogh from a laymans perspective. I've not bought flush plates (yet), I had planned to use the push flush button supplied, creating a point of access to the cistern via a removable tile on the bulkhead that will conceal the cistern.

The only differences I can recall is some do the extraction and I've not seen it on others. I'll confess to not ever having asked / checked properly tbh, but apart from that they're much of a muchness afaic. If I had to choose I'd go Geberit, as I'd be looking for long term parts availability. That would be my primary concern. Price wise there's not a big enough difference to argue, considering this'll be buried behind your tiles for the foreseeable.

I'm watching this too ..!! Thought the sunamp could only store 5kwh so will be interested how much this would stand before the temperature dropped and you needed the inline heating to bring athe water to a reasonable temperature.

Maybe I should have watched the video first ?

As I remember Approved Document Part A basically says... "If you build it like this it will meet the Building Regulations". However you are free to build anything you like if you can convince Building Control that it also meets the Building Regulations. So I see no problem with having higher ceilings provided Building Control are happy. To do that they may want evidence that someone like a structural engineer has approved the design. I would just ask them if what you propose is ok.

HSE advice via CITB here : https://www.citb.co.uk/documents/cdm regs/cdm 2015 - qa 3 self build projects.pdf Construction Plan is detailed here - doesn't need to be war and peace http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/cis80.pdf

By working floor I mean the beam and blocks will go down and that's it. I want to know the insulation I'll use in the future when I'm ready to put the UFH and screed down, so I can work out levels now. So if using EPS, would I use less than PIR and still get the same U value?

Just enabled E7 timed input into my twin Sunamp PV setup - the surplus PV generation on cloudy days at this time of year is now problematic. My installation took place in January and I can confirm the very low standing heat loss I suspect we get more 'waste' heat from the adjacent Solaredge inverter. Capacity per unit is 'over' 4kWh (they claim 4-5kWh) . We required a capacity to supply 240 litres into the bath at 40 degrees and the system has always managed to achieve this.

You're sure total waste of time and effort. There is nothing serviceable OUTSIDE of the cistern. Anything INSIDE the cistern gets taken apart / serviced / replaced as per the demo vid. Bob's your uncle.