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After the timber frame

vivienz

Entry posted by vivienz

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The timber frame will be substantially built by the middle of next week and I'm thinking through and organising the next stages, so this post is to help crystallise my thoughts and offer them out for anything I have missed that is time-critical.

 

MBC will be working over the weekend and the build will be substantially finished around Tuesday or Wednesday.  They are going to leave out a few of the stud walls, the ones that form the walls of the landing, until they return to do the air test, simply because it makes moving around up there much easier.  Once the air test is done, they'll put the stud walls in place and blow in the cellulose.

 

I've got a couple of site visits from roofers over the next few days; it's crucial that I get the eaves courses done before the PV installation as it can't happen without them and they are really tight on time slots at the moment.  The PV is due on the 26th/27th September, immediately after the glazing which goes in on the 24th/25th.  Now that I have a house-shaped object, I have requested a site visit from the glazing installation manager to make sure that I'm clear on everything they need to do their thing.  He's coming out next week, so that gives me time to get any alterations to the scaffolding scheduled, as it will be impossible to get them out on the day if there are any problems and I'll miss my installation time slot, which will put everything else back.

 

Running in parallel with this is the garage flat roof and quite a few fiddly bits on the build that need tending to as soon as possible.  The garage roof needs its GRP on because it won't be watertight until this happens.  Also, there is a flat roof section over the stairwell, next to the main pitched section and it would be good to get this done whilst all the scaffolding is up to that height.  Other flat roof sections are the balconies, and then the gutter runs behind the parapets will need lining with GRP or something similar, but I need to look more closely at that.

 

On the subject of balconies, I need to get my balustrades sorted.  I haven't started getting quotes yet or even gone beyond sourcing a couple of suppliers.  I don't know what the lead times are for these things, but I'm working on them being more than a couple of weeks.  Likewise, I need to get quite a bit of aluminium fabrication done for the EPS upstand and to cap the parapets at the top of the ground floor, pretty much all the way around.  If anyone has any suggestions for anything other than aluminium, I'm all ears!  I currently think that aluminium is a good option as it can be powder coated to the same RAL colour as my window frames and should all blend in nicely, as well as being formed to the exact measurements needed. At some point, I need to get my guttering and downpipes sourced and attached, but the downpipes won't go into final positions until the cladding is on.

 

Again, running in parallel to this lot, I'm thinking about when it's best to get my groundworker back in to dig out the drainage runs, amongst other things.  I'm thinking some time around the first weeks of October, mainly because I have to get a trench dug for the service alteration and burial of the electricity cable, which has been booked for 17th October.  Other things that need to be dug out for are the sewage treatment plant, the land drain for the output of the plant, the rainwater storage tank, the trenches for the rainwater run-off into the tank, trenches for a brine loop in the field and finally a socking great pond in the field that may then fill up over the winter.  I daresay that this isn't a comprehensive list of holes to be dug, but it will do for that couple of weeks.

 

Moving to things to do inside, most of it will happen after the air tightness test, which will happen after the glazing and all doors are in, but also after the inlet and outlet for the MVHR have been put through the roof and sealed.  This will also need to be done before the bulk of the roof is tiled.

 

After the air test has been completed, MBC will then blow the cellulose into the frame and re-seal the holes they put in to add the cellulose, and then first fix can start in earnest.  I've made a bit of a stab at the lighting, switches and sockets plan but I'm still pondering a few things on that (like, I don't know half of what's out there and what I might like) so I need to get my act together in order to be ready for first fix.

 

So, all of that lot should see me through to the first fix work which is in hand and I can go on to contemplate the joys of sanitaryware and generally making the place look like a habitable house rather than a house-shaped object.  One thing is certain - it's going to be a very, very busy time from the end of September onwards so the more I can get planned out now, the better.

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Russdl

I wish I could offer some advice but I'm still in 'sponge' mode and just soaking up your output so I can only offer encouragement. From what you say it looks like you've got pretty much everything covered but I suspect wise wo/men will be along soon to highlight any omissions in your planning. Good luck with it all. 

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HerbJ

Some things to add to your to-do list:

 

1) All the penetrations (MVHR, electrical, CCTV, gas, water, whatever etc) through the external walls BEFORE they blow in the cellulose. It's a difficult thing to do afterwards.... It means you will have to start planning external lighting, external power, CCTV, satellite dishes, aerials etc.  

2) Fascias and soffitts (not sure of your roof construction) whilst all the scaffolding is in place

3) Make provisions to control the rainwater off the roof, at the earliest opportunity. Fit gutters and temporary downpipes. Get the water into rain water system, if installed but at least get it away from the house.

4) Noggins on external framework for everything that needs to be attached - satellite dishes, aerials,  balcony fixings, etc, etc

5) When is your scaffolding coming down? Can you complete the groundnworks for drains, rainwater connections etc whilst the scaffolding is still in place?

 

You're doing well, keep going....

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vivienz

Thanks, Herb.  The only penetrations through the external walls are the MVHR inlet/outlet, everything else is catered for via ductwork coming up through the slab.  The note on noggins is timely - there will be a few fixtures and, likewise, the gutters and downpipes.  Truly, I feel like I've got a case of rabies coming on as I'm so hydrophobic for my building!

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HerbJ

No problem - I would have thought you had some external lights and fittings, such as satellite dishes, aerials, CCTV cameras and Security Alarm?  but maybe not?

 

My house has all of these and they required wall penetrations = see pictures

IMG_20180905_223827062.jpg

IMG_20180905_223815894.jpg

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vivienz
On 06/09/2018 at 11:07, Stones said:

@vivienz Have you thought about rendering (and painting) your EPS upstand?  

 

I confess that I hadn't! Good idea, though, as I think it may sit easier with the colour of the cladding. I was also thinking of render for external windiw reveals as there isn't a compatible solution from the cladding manufacturer.

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vivienz

Thanks again, Herb. Your lights are lovely!

We have to keep external lighting to a minimum but we need some. I had better get my skates on with thinking that one through.

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Stones
1 hour ago, vivienz said:

 

I confess that I hadn't! Good idea, though, as I think it may sit easier with the colour if the cladding. I was also thinking of render for external windiw reveals as there isn't a compatible solution from the cladding nanufacturer.

 

I'll post a pic of ours later.

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HerbJ

Also have a look at this Topic, which details a couple of other options, including the one I used

 

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vivienz

Thanks, Herb. This was my original choice but I've been swayed by the render.  i need to look into costs and feasibility now. Update to follow.

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mvincentd

"If anyone has any suggestions for anything other than aluminium"

 

Your architects renders suggest a 'poll-less' system of pure glass in which case this kind of thing; https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/barrier-sabco-aluminium-side-fix-2500mm-balustrade-rail-kit-15mm-glass-aluminium-cover-247278?vat=1&shopping=true&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIprqW3qao3QIVqbztCh3TzQS9EAYYBiABEgIVxfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

With no vertical poll to 'clash' with window frame colours the off-the-shelf aluminium or stainless colour might be ok. 

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jack

@vivienz, if you're going for frameless glass, please think carefully and early about how you're going to install it.

 

I have this on some balconies and with timber frame it's been a bit of a nightmare due to it not having been designed and detailed properly in advance. It's literally held up getting the house completed for over a year while I figured out how to manage it. 

 

It's definitely doable, but start looking into the detail now (if it hasn't already been thought about), and certainly before the areas are fiberglassed for example. 

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RichS

Re. the copings for the parapet wall.

I priced for aluminium copings this week for an U shape, total length approx. 30m. Costs came in at about £1800, ouch.

So after some thoughts I have come up with the solution of making my own using GRP roofing materials. I will fix a USB3 capping to the top of the parapet and put drips on using the correct trims. Place a capping piece on top, seal the joints using resin and bandage and then top coat the lot. The finished colour is a dark grey and against a white render I think this should look ok. And it will cost a fraction of the £1800.

Edited by RichS
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lizzie
On 06/09/2018 at 16:07, HerbJ said:

Also have a look at this Topic, which details a couple of other options, including the one I used

That detail was copied from my build.

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Onoff
20 hours ago, RichS said:

Re. the copings for the parapet wall.

I priced for aluminium copings this week for an U shape, total length approx. 30m. Costs came in at about £1800, ouch.

So after some thoughts I have come up with the solution of making my own using GRP roofing materials. I will fix a USB3 capping to the top of the parapet and put drips on using the correct trims. Place a capping piece on top, seal the joints using resin and bandage and then top coat the lot. The finished colour is a dark grey and against a white render I think this should look ok. And it will cost a fraction of the £1800.

 

USB3?

 

Is that like OSB3?

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RichS
4 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

USB3?

 

Is that like OSB3?

☺️  Hahahaha , Yes, so many typos in my first reply that I missed that one at editing stage

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