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Vapour barrier


Pocster

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6 minutes ago, ADLIan said:

In constant contact with moisture, say under a DPM

 

Well there you go. Everyone of our "eps" layers are on free draining compacted sub bases. Hardly moist!

 

I'd suggest your comments are irrelevant.

 

Stop scaremongering so we can put our Kangos away! ?

 

Edit: Do you have shares in a DPM company?

Edited by Onoff
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I didn't want to scare monger just giving information that is freely available from EPS manufacturers. Your house will not fall down or be ejected into oblivion but the thermal performance of the EPS will be slightly worse. I do not have shares in any DPM or insulation companies.

I am aware of Peripor this is one of the enhanced moisture resistance products. If the manufacturers are OK with a free draining sub base then fine.

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Someone (think it may have been @SteamyTea) did an experiment with samples of EPS to see whether it absorbed water or not.  This was years ago, either on Ebuild or possibly on the GBF.  Samples were left submerged in a bin full of water for a long time, then weighed to see how much water they had absorbed, and the result was close to sod all.

 

In the case of EPS laid on top of a drainage layer, there's never going to be any hydrostatic pressure to push water even slightly into the EPS, so it's very hard to see how any water could be absorbed.  The stuff is naturally moderately hydrophobic anyway, so there won't be any capillary effect to "suck" moisture up into it.

 

The only case where I can see there being very slight thermal performance degradation happening is for the case where the stuff is used around a basement, where there may well be hydrostatic pressure pushing a tiny amount of moisture into the EPS.

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12 minutes ago, pocster said:

I believe that’s what the ufh company has said . Erm , that not the best ???

 

Really good I believe actually but expensive? Smooth as finish wise going by some pictures on here, like glass. 

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41 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Really good I believe actually but expensive? Smooth as finish wise going by some pictures on here, like glass. 

Not priced the screed yet but can guess . Now if only I could sell some glazing to pay for it ...

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4 minutes ago, ADLIan said:

@JSHarrisJeremy - I would refer you to manufacturers test data on this one. Insulation in floors under the DPM can also experience the same hydrostatic pressure as basement walls (unless very well drained)

 

I was referring to the pretty much standard, EPS on drainage layer, passive slab arrangement.  Both @PeterStarck's slab and ours (plus several others here) are built on a layer of well-drained ballast, so, as I said, there is no hydrostatic pressure to push water into the EPS. 

 

In our case, we have 200mm of Type 3, blinded with ~50mm of coarse grit, under the EPS, and 100mm land drains around the periphery, under the edge of the ballast, to ensure that it's well drained.  In addition, the base of the EPS is at ground level anyway, the photo below shows the layer of Type 3 before it was blinded and the EPS was laid.  It's really hard to see how water could be pushed upwards into the EPS.

 

5741978318605_Housebase-Copy.thumb.JPG.182ed4223419def89122bf1c53810cdb.JPG

 

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

Everyone of our "eps" layers are on free draining compacted sub bases. Hardly moist!

 

Mine wouldn't have been, at least easily. Water table == ground level or higher on my site most of the year so some care to get the bottom of the EPS out of the ground would have been needed. This was one of the things which made me concerned about a passive slab so @ADLIan's comments are relevant in some cases.

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So here’s the bathroom 

 

At far end shuttered section for inner timber frame for hidden cistern 

 

Directly in front where Porto loo is - the bath section .

 

To the right shower tray area 

 

Plan is ufh and screed only go in the other area . So cistern , bath , shower dealt with at a later date ( like years from now ? )

Bit like brexit tbh ?

D81C731C-BBB0-460F-827A-4D72A3F9EC46.jpeg

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47 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

@pocster if you have the depth you could get a sand / cement screed laid at 75mm which could work out cheaper and will take tiles without needing to prime or clean.

Yeah I’m not sure what I should have to be honest .

i was allowing 150mm insulation 

50/60mm screed and ufh 

Then 20mm ( ish ) for tile and adhesive 

 

I also assumed a liquid self levelling screed .

Screeder looking tomorrow see what he says ?

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Well !

 

screeders been

He said sand and cement barrowed in ! ?

I assumed he would suggest liquid screed like everyone uses in grand design .

Apparently liquid screed material cost is naturally more expensive and isn’t as level as people think !

He was implying that the labour is cheaper than the material therefore use cheap materials !

what do we all think ? . He also said sand and cement screed has to be at least 60mm with ufh to avoid tikes cracking 

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5 minutes ago, pocster said:

No idea about fibres - i’ll Ask .

Why would you choose sand / cement over liquid @Mr Punter ?

 

You don't need to do any prep before you tile it and if the screeder is good it is smooth and flat enough to lay any flooring (LVT etc) whereas sometimes you can get little ripples and bubbles with liquid.

 

https://www.ukscreedsltd.co.uk/preparing-liquid-screed-floor-tiling/

Edited by Mr Punter
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7 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

If they are good I would have sand cement. I thought 70mm was standard, not 60mm. Does it have fibres?

Just googled screed depth and got a variety of answers .... It’s unbonded and we will assume fibres in it .

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