Larch Cladding- treatment options

[Ferdinand]

 

[Crofter]

I like it in principle- who doesn't like to play with fire- but just not sold on the end look.

 

A less scorched effect looks brilliant, IMHO (e.g. http://www.urbanrealm.com/buildings/1144/Blakeburn.html) but presumably still needs some sort of treatment as the charring is not heavy enough to do the job.

[Ferdinand]

It is interesting that a few years on the 2009 the GD IoW "TreeHouse" had mellowed quite a bit.

 

These pics are late 2012.

 

http://www.planetpropertyblog.co.uk/2012/11/13/grand-designs-treehouse-for-sale/

 

 

I like the face/edge plank mixture, but would prefer it to be vertical orientation. The Tower cladding is gorgeous.

 

What does it look like after a light sandblasting?

 

Ferdinand

Edited October 10, 2016 by Ferdinand

[Crofter]

Potentially daft idea...

I wonder what it would look like if the first layer of boards were black (either scorched or painted with barn paint), then the top layer treated with a clear oil. So you would see 4" of wood, then a 2" 'gap', repeated as a pattern of vertical stripes.

[Barney12]

22 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Potentially daft idea...

I wonder what it would look like if the first layer of boards were black (either scorched or painted with barn paint), then the top layer treated with a clear oil. So you would see 4" of wood, then a 2" 'gap', repeated as a pattern of vertical stripes.

 

A big humbug??

 

but being serious that sort of idea might be fine but always do a sample board before committing to an entire building!

[Ferdinand]

3 hours ago, Crofter said:

Potentially daft idea...

I wonder what it would look like if the first layer of boards were black (either scorched or painted with barn paint), then the top layer treated with a clear oil. So you would see 4" of wood, then a 2" 'gap', repeated as a pattern of vertical stripes.

 

Needs a test.

 

Would the scorched boards run onto the others in the rain?

 

How would that look?

 

That could be as bad as rain stain runoff on badly detailed concrete walls.

Edited October 16, 2016 by Ferdinand

[Tennentslager]

I guess you will want to plan your boards to be symmetrical around doors and windows. This means your gaps will vary ever so slightly and the contrast in colour more obvious.

If you want a contrast be better to have a different shade on your window and door frames imo

[PeterW]

3 hours ago, Barney12 said:

 

A big humbug??

 

but being serious that sort of idea might be fine but always do a sample board before committing to an entire building!

 

My thought is if you got it slightly wrong you could end up with an oversized barcode ....??

 

 

[Crofter]

Have finally decided on a treatment system- a solvent based preserver followed by an oil based protective layer. Was medium priced but, crucially, a low cost per litre. My rough sawn boards are now stored indoors and I reckon they will drink up as much treatment as I can be bothered brushing on. I reckon that some of the more expensive options could have gone nowhere near far enough and I'd have ended up buying additional tins, so I got a bit scared of the potential cost.

 

Anyway, next question: I'm currently sorting through all the boards to grade them. Some are perfectly good but have sizeable resin pockets which detract from their appearance. I expect that these will eventually melt away in hot weather, but how are the boards going to take to their preserver and oil when they have so much resin in them?

[lizzie]

On 25/10/2016 at 15:19, Crofter said:

Have finally decided on a treatment system- a solvent based preserver followed by an oil based protective layer. Was medium priced but, crucially, a low cost per litre. My rough sawn boards are now stored indoors and I reckon they will drink up as much treatment as I can be bothered brushing on. I reckon that some of the more expensive options could have gone nowhere near far enough and I'd have ended up buying additional tins, so I got a bit scared of the potential cost.

 

Anyway, next question: I'm currently sorting through all the boards to grade them. Some are perfectly good but have sizeable resin pockets which detract from their appearance. I expect that these will eventually melt away in hot weather, but how are the boards going to take to their preserver and oil when they have so much resin in them?

Hi I am just getting to cladding. Love Russwood and the Sioo but too expensive. Dont like the Vincent timber gris finish.  I wanted WRC from Russwood with Sioo but am now looking at Siberian Larch from Vastern, they dont offer any treatments before delivery but will sell you Osmo.....what was the preserver/oil combo you used and did it work out OK?

 

Any help on this topic gratefully received, I dont want the patchy au naturel look!

Mnay thanks

 

Liz

[Crofter]

I went for some products from Barretine, a timber preserver and a top coat of log cabin oil.

Can't give a full report as I have yet to actually finish! I've given the cladding a single coat of the preserver prior to installation, then plan to do a second coat and the top coat in situ. I've decided to switch from cladding to more urgent internal work so will let you know how it goes in a few weeks time.

[lizzie]

18 hours ago, Crofter said:

I went for some products from Barretine, a timber preserver and a top coat of log cabin oil.

Can't give a full report as I have yet to actually finish! I've given the cladding a single coat of the preserver prior to installation, then plan to do a second coat and the top coat in situ. I've decided to switch from cladding to more urgent internal work so will let you know how it goes in a few weeks time.

Thank you I appreciate your help and good luck with it.

 

KR

 

Liz

[paulmb]

Hi, are you give any update on how your choice of larch cladding treatment has faired since application in 2017?  I'm about to get a small 1BR unit built on Skye in an exposed hill-top location by the coast, so have similar concerns to yourself on how it will weather over time.

[jen and mark]

What did you choose on the end? Any photos?

[AndrewR]

This post was interesting, but can someone advise on waterproofing please? I don't care about the aesthetics of colour change from brown to silver.

I live on the far north coast of Scotland - often high winds, lashing rain, and salty misty air. I have used Scottish larch cladding a lot (I bought a job lot) for various applications, the most recent being a shed that I built (photo attached: during construction).

The larch on the shed is currently untreated.
What I am finding is that when it rains, water tracks down to the base of the planks and the cladding remains saturated at the bottom six inches for a long time. I also found this on other places where I used the larch. This in itself I want to remedy, but it also then tends to blacken at the base due to the water and, I assume, fungus.
In short, I am looking for a larch cladding waterproofing treatment. Which products can anyone recommend?
On other applications I have tried raw linseed oil, and it is okay for a month or so, but when the wet season starts if seems as it I hadn't used anything.
I thought about yacht varnish, but I'm finding mixed information, i.e. it is good, it can lead to trapped moisture, it is not good for softwood, products now are not as good as they used to be
Thanks, Andrew

 

Edited Monday at 07:03 by AndrewR

[JohnMo]

9 minutes ago, AndrewR said:

larch cladding waterproofing treatment

https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/decking-oil/

 

It is actually ceder oil, I use on the house larch cladding.

 

Or paint it with Jotun Demidekk, I used on our shed (larch) been on a couple of years still looks the same as the day it went on.

 

10 minutes ago, AndrewR said:

yacht varnish

The oils in larch will push it off. Once tried with ceder it all peeled off.

[JamesP]

I have been using this on Cedar, did buy 5 tester pots of different product but settled on this:

https://www.protekwoodstain.co.uk/wood-stain/timber-eco-shield-black