Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) Hey ! These have been leak free . Ive started doing the block paving around them . I haunch the concrete against the upstand so I can bed the brick . I think this is the issue ( obviously complete I would fill all the block paving joints with kiln dried sand - but can’t rely on that .... ) . So ! ; I think rain water gets in this gap ( at the moment ) and can creep in under the frame . Should I just ct1 the gaps around glazing unit and pavers ? . Just ‘top up’ with sand for astetics at the end ? Or bust those pavers out and ct1 under the frame ??? can stick a sketch up showing the upstand and pavers construction if that helps Edited August 28, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Post it up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Post it up . I will Rather annoyed tbh . ZERO leaks - checked it every step - but it’s water getting under the window ‘frame ‘ because ground level is higher because of the block paving . Sketch soon !!! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 57 minutes ago, pocster said: I will Rather annoyed tbh . ZERO leaks - checked it every step - but it’s water getting under the window ‘frame ‘ because ground level is higher because of the block paving . Sketch soon !!! ? Sounds like drainage is your issue. Should you not be putting some kids no of permeable upstand around these and then paving to that? Possibly something that looks like a brickwork weep vent on its side ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 42 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Sounds like drainage is your issue. Should you not be putting some kids no of permeable upstand around these and then paving to that? Possibly something that looks like a brickwork weep vent on its side ? Maybe. Kind of discussed it here a bit .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) So! I assume that rainwater is getting under the upstand because the concrete floor level is now level with it due to the block pavers! This area can be parked on and so drainage etc. wasn't an option. Not sure what to do. It's like I need to 'water proof' the window frame and upstand again somehow!!! My pavers seem to be the exact depth of the frame upstand unfortunately!! Previous to block paving no leaks - as the water level never got high enough....... Edited August 28, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Was the window designed for flush installation? If so, I can't see why the paving would make any difference. Is this just on one window? I assume they need to be flush so you can park on them. I would want the frame / upstand / glazing to be completely waterproof, so I could aim a jetwash at it from any angle without any water getting in, then do the paving when you are happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 6 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: Was the window designed for flush installation? If so, I can't see why the paving would make any difference. Is this just on one window? I assume they need to be flush so you can park on them. I would want the frame / upstand / glazing to be completely waterproof, so I could aim a jetwash at it from any angle without any water getting in, then do the paving when you are happy. I tested it ever step of the way . No leaks . But it would seem not 100% once water level is high enough . Only found this out because I started doing the paving . Windows with no paving ( as of yet ) fine . To get the pavers flush with the glass I build up with mortar etc . Thereby putting water level higher . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 I think this may be a candidate for just CT1'ing the shit out of it where the upstand meets the underside of the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Has anyone actually given you detailed installation instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Has anyone actually given you detailed installation instructions? Lol Nope ! i did wonder if it’s just a ct1 everywhere job . To get under the lip will be difficult . Will post photos tomorrow. Really need a ct1 expanding foam type mega product . Actually how do I get ct1 under it ???? Edited August 28, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 So the up stand isn't leaking but the water is getting in through where the unit sits and the up stand??? How is the window attached to the upstand?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 9 minutes ago, Declan52 said: How is the window attached to the upstand?? Not very fackin well 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: Not very fackin well Ct1 on the upstand then screwed in place . I wasn’t keen on this because there’s no way of knowing if it’s a perfectly tight seal all around . Im tempted to cut the structural silicone out around one piece of glass . Remove it . Then re do the ct1 between upstand and frame . But I’ve still got no idea how perfect or imperfect the seal is until I put the glass back in and silicone again . Also the largest glass weighs 130kg - so not much fun .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 Surprised @Onoff hasn’t joined in for a kicking . Probably too busy tiling ........ ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Do not cut into the structural 'silicone' if it forms part on the unit. Are you referring to a bead of silicone that the upstand is bonded to that was retrospectively applied by your delicate hand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Just now, pocster said: Surprised @Onoff hasn’t joined in for a kicking . Probably too busy tiling ........ ? Nope, hes probably designing a machine that makes machines........in his spare time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Do not cut into the structural 'silicone' if it forms part on the unit. Are you referring to a bead of silicone that the upstand is bonded to that was retrospectively applied by your delicate hand? These windows were different to my original ‘ wrong’ ones . You get a steel frame . You then sit the glass in that . You then structural silicone around it . So I can cut it because I put it in . Need to anyway to get the glass out so I can get the frame out . ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 4 minutes ago, pocster said: Surprised @Onoff hasn’t joined in for a kicking . Probably too busy tiling ........ ? No one is trying to kick you just trying to get a better understanding of how it was attached to see where the issue could be. Can you stand up on the inside and see if there are any visible gaps?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 2 minutes ago, Declan52 said: No one is trying to kick you just trying to get a better understanding of how it was attached to see where the issue could be. Can you stand up on the inside and see if there are any visible gaps?? Lol ‘ kick’ was just a joke ! @Onoff receives enough from me ? When I bedded the frames there was no wobble - as flush to the upstand as I could get . But of course just needs the tinniest of gaps ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Ow man ! These windows..... sorry to hear that you have water ingress.... I was worried about it leaking around the upstands and that’s why I asked on the previous post if they were fully bonded. I think you need to look into what “serious” waterproof tapes are available. Is there a way to tape between the bace unit and the upstand. Yes CT1 first as a back up but then tape to protect the ct1 between the lower section and the upstand. Belt n braces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 9 minutes ago, Cpd said: Ow man ! These windows..... sorry to hear that you have water ingress.... I was worried about it leaking around the upstands and that’s why I asked on the previous post if they were fully bonded. I think you need to look into what “serious” waterproof tapes are available. Is there a way to tape between the bace unit and the upstand. Yes CT1 first as a back up but then tape to protect the ct1 between the lower section and the upstand. Belt n braces. I can take ( and will have too ) the whole lot out . The issue is frame to upstand . Not sure what ‘tapes’ exist . Ct1 seems the favourite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Can you cover the glass in masking tape up to the area that will be seen from inside, then ct1 the life out of it, drop the glass back in, any excess that squeezed out won’t go on the glass because of the tape. Then pump in a load from outside again with masking tape on the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said: Can you cover the glass in masking tape up to the area that will be seen from inside, then ct1 the life out of it, drop the glass back in, any excess that squeezed out won’t go on the glass because of the tape. Then pump in a load from outside again with masking tape on the glass. Can’t . frame is ‘T’ shaped so you can’t get to the edge outside . Glass itself just sits on rubber packers - sat in turn on the frame ( I was told to do it this way by the supplier ) . Only way is glass out so I can ct1 again under the frame . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 Here’s a pic As you can see the double glazed unit siits down in the hole . The structural part of the glass sits on the ‘T’ frame . So no access to anything internally . No access to under edge of ‘T’ frame externally ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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