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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


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No bfo clamps like this?

 

If it will all bend flat under pressure using clamps, I'd be trying to keep the clamps on whilst the strong glue dries with the ply plates AND biscuits in place. 

 

ae235.jpeg.6ab7f1cbfbd10b730acd3bc553223988.jpeg

Edited by Onoff
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2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

I'd think with a belt sander it would be a breeze.

 

I've had good luck with a Lidl belt sander for about £20. OK, I burned one out but did use it quite a lot to sand about 50 metres of 225x45 joists which had been stored outside partly covered and got somewhat weathered. Indeed, a breeze helps, use it outside on a windy day and the dust is SEP [¹].

 

[¹] Somebody Else's Problem.

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Thing is it'll be fixed in place/ inside.. the dust would be a n'mare considering I'm still having to use kitchen ad hoc same time. Im trying ewverything to mitigate against having to do this major sand job.

 

at the mo I'm also a bit concerned with the join area not being supported anywhere near it to.. so I added this batten/ wondering too if it might be a Q of screwing from top down at a few points in to it @ edge, fill. What do you think?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

No bfo clamps like this?

 

If it will all bend flat under pressure using clamps, I'd be trying to keep the clamps on whilst the strong glue dries with the ply plates AND biscuits in place. 

 

ae235.jpeg.6ab7f1cbfbd10b730acd3bc553223988.jpeg

 

yup onoff got a few VG ones.. but won't help: I need to force it down -whilst- shifting it into place. The clamp will give me the pressure I need, but I cannot move xyz once its in use.

 

I'm gonna have to go the elephant route + a slew of pretty coarse language.

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Clamp it down - leave in place for a couple of days.  Then with everything ready release the clamps and the boards should stay flat long enough to get them fixed in place and then quickly reclamp until the glue has cured

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I raised my L shaped worktop formed of two pieces on little blocks atop the cabinet carcasses. This enabled me to get the clamps on to squeeze everything together whilst the glue dried. When dry I removed the blocks and lowered the now glued worktop onto the carcasses.

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10 hours ago, newhome said:

Go get a large neighbour to sit on it while you screw it to the base  ?. Or get the heaviest stuff you can find to put on it. 

 

I was thinking of big Betty @ no.23.. "why me?" erm.. er.. (because you have an enormous batty-?).. mm maybe Mr.Jones bye"

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Cheers Peter.. couldn't have got this result without your help tbh. Yes oil.. 1st coat tonight.

 

i do notice the surface is a bit rough here n there.. I wacked oil on a cheapo pine door I hung, & noticed the roughness after i oiled.

 

What sanding do you suggest, can you remind me? I'm not going nuts with a makita.. I'm talking hand sanding/ as little removed as poss. Won't it go light in patches when you sand it, taking away whatever the coat stuff is on tho?

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Appreciated chaps. hadn't thought Id be able to have done this 1st thing AM.

 

One thing I didnt do well/ I rushed, was the sink perimeter sealant. It did the ooze thing, but I ran a finger along.. & now ended up with thin film 1cm or so on surface adjacent to sink edge. What should I do? I'm thinking regarding the sanding > then oiling.

 

Runa stanley blade gently around the perimeter onto the surface? or re-apply a sealant bead-? shoukld I hjave used a tool whatsit for this.. or is that only needed for shower trays etc-?

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Spare sealant on the surface will scrape off with a blade. Then oil a couple more times. 

 

I’d get into the habit of clearing and oiling the surface once a month and it will build up a nice coating - I was surprised how water beaded on it even just with 2 coats. 

 

Just need to sort those walls and splash backs and you’ve cracked it ..! Probably have this finished before @Onoff gets a wall tile on ....

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2 minutes ago, newhome said:

Oh dear, what’s he done? ?

 

Not to detract ftom zoot's thread but snapped the humerous off the elbow and broken the elbow as well. Pre existing brittle bones and circulatory issues. Fingers crossed....not that he can!

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Old chap had a fall onoff? sympathies.

 

Re. the splashback.. what do you suggest for this? I was thinking a strip of wood, of which I have, albeit softwood.. but then hang on that's hardly waterproof tho is it.

 

The splashback is only about 3-4cm. I'll tile the sill area ontop of it.

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Appreciated chaps. hadn't thought Id be able to have done this 1st thing AM.

 

One thing I didnt do well/ I rushed, was the sink perimeter sealant. It did the ooze thing, but I ran a finger along.. & now ended up with thin film 1cm or so on surface adjacent to sink edge. What should I do? I'm thinking regarding the sanding > then oiling.

 

Runa stanley blade gently around the perimeter onto the surface? or re-apply a sealant bead-? shoukld I hjave used a tool whatsit for this.. or is that only needed for shower trays etc-?

 

You're making a habit of this thinking you can't, moaning like f**k about it, then coming out the other side finding you can do it and pretty damn well too! :) Have faith! 

 

To apply a neat mastic bead I use old empty mastic tubes and a very weak solution of Fairy liquid. I'll try and do a little video.

Edited by Onoff
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