Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[Onoff]

How about a white UPVC trim strip like this to match the sink:

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-PVCu-White-Cloaking-Profile-45-x-2500mm/p/162621

 

Bed it on clear silicon and baby wipe the excess off. 

 

You can also get it in woodgrain effect. 

[zoothorn]

But what if Ive stuck down the sink, mastic's oozed out.. & moanin muggins here gone along edge bits like numpty stylee wiv a finger innit?

[zoothorn]

I mean if Ive used the clear sealant stuff, to bond sink to top, what do I do with excess that squidges out? are you meant to totally clear all away.. or leave a shaped bead.. or clear away + then apply some other stuff (or is that not neccessary)-?

[Onoff]

Most I think including me squidge the sink down on a thick bead of mastic, tighten the sink clamps on the underside then baby wipe the Hell out of it so it's all gone. 

 

You haven't done where the worktop butts up to the pb yet have you?

[zoothorn]

Ok that's what I had half in mind when I did.. good, ok then I'll just carefully blade off -all- the excess so i can sand right up to the sink.

 

The splashback.. is my hardwood strip feasable, or daft due to, well, its wood/ not exactly waterproof!

 

i need to be considering the tiling then along with a splashback around the sill behind sink. Is tiling directly onto pB the idea? I often quiz plaster skim or tiles, onto pB due to the surface being paper: surely your just 'hanging' tiles from paper? IE it seems not exactly so well bonded to the plaster inside sometimes.. pulls off alarmingly easily I found with binned offcuts, & alot of weight with many tiles.

[newhome]

What are your plans with the rest? Tiles and paint above? Do you intend doing anything to the doors? Need to have a plan that ties it all together now you are onto the decorative part. 

[zoothorn]

Doors can wait till very last/ cream paint + new knobs, one a time.. take my time. I need 2 cream strips below cabs to finish off woodwork too.

 

The area around sink tho, even using tap carefully, causes splashes.. cos its a BIG DROP FKOFF TAP I need an action plan asap. Easiest to fix on is somesort of strip I guess, glue/ press, done. Tiling this piddly 3cm H bit.. a mighty faff in comparison surely (wood temporary strip looked quite good I thought, as basic idea too). Got a 5cm H "splashback" bit on other 1st window too, & sill.. prob best tile that too I'd think/ easiest.

 

Overall plan: tiles on sill tops. Tiles up corner area ~50cm H. Other cooker side of kitchen tiles 50cm H behind top3, & around cnr 60cm W.

 

Then I'll at least have a water resistant area/ I can relax a bit.

 

Thanks, zootH

[zoothorn]

Now I'll moan. The sink is cr*p. Alot of standing water on the draining board side which just stays there.. in a damp area this is exactly what you don't want as green mould will just set in. All under cups, the rack/ anything resting stays wet. Absolutely fkn Infuriating!

 

Do not buy Franke sinks.

[Onoff]

25 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Now I'll moan. The sink is cr*p. Alot of standing water on the draining board side which just stays there.. in a damp area this is exactly what you don't want as green mould will just set in. All under cups, the rack/ anything resting stays wet. Absolutely fkn Infuriating!

 

Do not buy Franke sinks.

 

Is the worktop level?

[zoothorn]

@PeterW .. sorry to ask (no,w this maybe very well be the daftest Q of all) but wet n dry 400 onto these tops.. am I using the 'wet' bit? or just the 'dry'. IE did you suggest 400 purely because its only available in the wet n dry type of paper?

 

I mean talk of out of one frying pan & into another frying pan...

 

My brain has come to the amazing idea of filing the 'drop points' of the damn draining board (& if I hadn't played snooker then it would never have come up with such a brilliant plan) as the water 'pool' is teetering only 1cm from all falling/ draining afaict. More frustrating is the top is nr as dammit level/ perfectly acceptably so, & put the level on the edge of sink & although its all fixed firmly flat.. its a chunk off level. Argh!!

[PeterW]

Yeh 400 is only w&d normally so that’s why I said it. 

 

Leave the sink as is and just wipe it dry when you’ve washed up.... I’ve seen expensive sinks do similar so don’t worry ..!!! 

[Ferdinand]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Now I'll moan. The sink is cr*p. Alot of standing water on the draining board side which just stays there.. in a damp area this is exactly what you don't want as green mould will just set in. All under cups, the rack/ anything resting stays wet. Absolutely fkn Infuriating!

 

Do not buy Franke sinks.

 

What sort of Franke sink is it? They are an excellent brand. Mine came with a 50 year guarantee, and I think they will still be around.

 

On the tap, try turning the water pressure down a little.

Edited September 14, 2018 by Ferdinand

[zoothorn]

"50 years" but I bet its only once its in the box or prior to fitting: if you've set it in, then they'll surely just argue "its the way its put in" (esp me not being a builder). And once I agree looked fine in box, then.. 'well did you check the draining section prior to fitting-?'.

 

I just can't see how this 50 year guarantee applies, unless its obviously broken in the box. Am I being cynical or is that why its so big/ 50 yr..?

[zoothorn]

Its a Franke tectonite cream sink, £100+. I will have to file these drop bits.. but that means removing the surface/ these areas may go dark soon but I have no choice. I'm onto Franke but I bet its "sorry, please return it FOC for a full refund"..

[zoothorn]

@PeterW , is the idea with the 400 to use -between- coats, or just the innitial raw surface-?

 

I notice after 1st coat the supersmooth feel isn't quite there anymore.

[newhome]

When you mention someone in a post using the @ sign you need to select the name from the list that drops down so that it turns blue and they then get a notification. See how @PeterW is at the bottom of the list when you type @ followed by his username? As you type the list gets more refined and when the name appears you need to click on his name to make it work. If you just type it without selecting from the list it doesn’t work properly. 

 

 

 

[PeterW]

16 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Its a Franke tectonite cream sink, £100+. I will have to file these drop bits.. but that means removing the surface/ these areas may go dark soon but I have no choice. I'm onto Franke but I bet its "sorry, please return it FOC for a full refund"..

 

Do not even try and file it ..!!! How much water is collecting ..??

 

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

@PeterW , is the idea with the 400 to use -between- coats, or just the innitial raw surface-?

 

I notice after 1st coat the supersmooth feel isn't quite there anymore.

 

And it’s between coats but leave it 8 hours to properly dry. 

[Ferdinand]

On 14/09/2018 at 15:28, zoothorn said:

"50 years" but I bet its only once its in the box or prior to fitting: if you've set it in, then they'll surely just argue "its the way its put in" (esp me not being a builder). And once I agree looked fine in box, then.. 'well did you check the draining section prior to fitting-?'.

 

I just can't see how this 50 year guarantee applies, unless its obviously broken in the box. Am I being cynical or is that why its so big/ 50 yr..?

 

I agree it is probably rhetorical in part, but I think they will still be here. And it is a gorgeous sink.

[Ferdinand]

On 14/09/2018 at 09:49, zoothorn said:

Doors can wait till very last/ cream paint + new knobs, one a time.. take my time. I need 2 cream strips below cabs to finish off woodwork too.

 

The area around sink tho, even using tap carefully, causes splashes.. cos its a BIG DROP FKOFF TAP I need an action plan asap. Easiest to fix on is somesort of strip I guess, glue/ press, done. Tiling this piddly 3cm H bit.. a mighty faff in comparison surely (wood temporary strip looked quite good I thought, as basic idea too). Got a 5cm H "splashback" bit on other 1st window too, & sill.. prob best tile that too I'd think/ easiest.

 

Overall plan: tiles on sill tops. Tiles up corner area ~50cm H. Other cooker side of kitchen tiles 50cm H behind top3, & around cnr 60cm W.

 

Then I'll at least have a water resistant area/ I can relax a bit.

 

Thanks, zootH

 

A couple of suggestions for your 3cm bit; you could use a mosaic-on-backing tile, and cut it into strips.

 

This is my kitchen, which the prior owner did by butting these up to each other:

 

 

And this is is the one from the Little Brown Bungalow, where we used mosaic tiles and a metal edging to sharpen off the corner, around the sink to cover smallish surfaces. You measure the gap and choose the right dimension of sub tile that multiplies up properly to your space.

 

 

And on the breakfast bar.

 

 

To to be fair, it is a bit tricky, so perhaps do it with a sheet or board material, and look at revisiting in the future should you wish.

 

It needs an edging or slight overhang as we have done here with the windowsill tiles with slices of 600x600 gloss black porcelain tiles, as flaws show up. This has slight flaws which are not seen from head height. See piccie below. I think we may even have redone the ones below the sill, and reflattened the substrate ... was a renovation not new PB.

 

 

Ferdinand

Apols to mods for murdering the server with full size photos.

 

 

 

Edited September 15, 2018 by Ferdinand

[Nickfromwales]

7 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

apols to mods for murdering the server with full size photos

It’s ok. We just hooked the back up generator in whilst you were uploading pics these days  

[Ferdinand]

In celebration of @zoothorn being nearly finished, I have found some more Zoot Music. ?

 

 

[zoothorn]

Ahhh... love it.

 

Hang on tho, nearly finished??.. spits tea!! I'm only half way through!

[Ferdinand]

18 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Ahhh... love it.

 

Hang on tho, nearly finished??.. spits tea!! I'm only half way through!

 

Observed comment by a short person on a  weekend away last month:

 

I am 5ft 6in, so I will round it up to six feet. 

 

Sounds to me like you have finished the first half. Round it up in your head!

 

?

Edited September 16, 2018 by Ferdinand

[Onoff]

Just throwing ideas around:

 

Put a 30mm upvc cloaking profile along behind the sink bedded down on a bead of clear CT1 between the cloaking edge and worktop. Stuck to the pb with same. You could tape and fill the walls either side and do in bathroom paint.

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-PVCu-White-Cloaking-Profile-30-x-2500mm/p/162619

 

Then do the sill in a upvc capping board that would wrap over the 3cm upstand. For example, different widths available:

 

https://www.trulypvc.com/window-door-parts/board-sill-trims/window-board-cill-capping-cover-1.25m?

 

Waterproof, easy wipe etc. 

 

But is the upstand 3cm? Earlier you said 3-4cm...

[Onoff]

Like this. Window sill is in fact that much wider than the sink. Done well should be no chance of water getting under the 3cm upstand or sill. And the white upvc will match the windows.