Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[newhome]

1 hour ago, Ferdinand said:

Observed comment by a short person on a  weekend away last month:

 

I am 5ft 6in, so I will round it up to six feet. 

 

Short! ? I’m 5’6” but never feel particularly short. Not tall, but amongst my friends about average height I’d say. 

[Ferdinand]

50 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

Short! ? I’m 5’6” but never feel particularly short. Not tall, but amongst my friends about average height I’d say. 

 

OK. Short MALE person.

 

/pendant

 

[newhome]

Just now, Ferdinand said:

 

pendant

 

 

Always sweetie! ?

[zoothorn]

Cheers for that onoff, another good sketch..& ideas too. I must say tho I havent seen one for me yet: the white won't match sink (cream) & I think won't compliment the worktops just plastic. Cheap tho I'm sure.

 

Any other ideas?

 

Ive 4x Osmo oiled tops & it feels very waterproof & smooth- great finish/ I'm pleased with the tops (although trying their best to bow up.. alarming).And the tap is fine too- very nice in fact if BIG. Sink I'm onto Franke about- driving me mad. Its not hygenic to have 1/2 a cup of sitting water permanently under the plate drainer.. esp here with our moist climate. I won't be able to change it now.. but will try to get some surface material stuff to apply on after Ive filed or cut these damn drops down.. or a refund if not the whole cost back so annoyed I am by this.

 

[newhome]

What are you doing with the cills? Putting whatever was on before back? It was something black IIRC? What was that made of? 

 

So choices are maybe ... 

 

Find something to match the cills

Find a laminate upstand strip that will match the colour of the worktops. ‘Wood effect’

Use tiles. Mosaics like @Ferdinand suggested or a larger format tiles cut down 

Use the same wood as the worktop. 

 

Pros and cons with each. 

 

As far as the water collecting is concerned for the time I would use a super absorbent cloth on the draining board. Then take off and dry once dishes drained etc. Water collecting on draining board is not unusual tbh. 

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

You can get woodgrain effect trims and cills though a bit pricier than white. You can get golden oak, rosewood, mahogany effect etc. Random link. Remind me what your worktop finish is.

 

https://www.trulypvc.com/window-door-parts/board-sill-trims/window-board-cill-capping-cover-1.25m?

[newhome]

21 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Remind me what your worktop finish is.

 

Acacia 

 

https://www.homebase.co.uk/acacia-oiled-hardwood-kitchen-worktop-220-x-60-x-2-6cm_p400774

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

I think the cheapest way, & simplest for me might be a (painted-white) pine sill like my old one, can do a lip bit either side protruding L & R 'wing' bits.. with a nice round front edge. Then as this lip sticks fwd a good bit, the 3cm splashback below hidden more > so white placcy 9mm strip.

 

Good links, will look see for similar in town.

[zoothorn]

I'll have a look in the 'sheds' tmrw TP etc. I had pine on there before (sill) whci seemed stable & flat.. but now I am concerned about warping/ bowing of it. How strong a bond do you think soudal foam would be for a pine sill > pB below?

[Onoff]

6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I'll have a look in the 'sheds' tmrw TP etc. I had pine on there before (sill) whci seemed stable & flat.. but now I am concerned about warping/ bowing of it. How strong a bond do you think soudal foam would be for a pine sill > pB below?

 

Pretty good but there I would use cheap grab adhesive.

[zoothorn]

Ok got some of that ok. Right that's a plan. Is the pine sill stuff normally available do you know? ie thicker 1" with a rounded edge. I usually see it certainly in this house & it looks std fayre bought-as stuff, rather than a routered edge.

[Onoff]

TP?

 

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Softwood-Windowboard-Best-Pattern-S207-32mm-x-225mm-Finished-Size-28mm-x-215mm/p/155110

[zoothorn]

Aha.. ok that's a plan. So I screw near the fronts into the batten below the ISO pB.. & grab adhesive onto the pb twds the back: is grab stuff the best idea here? if it tries to bow up @ back, won't it just lift/ rip the paper face off the pB tho? pB still seems so fallible to me.

 

I think once I get splashback + sills done it'll give me impetus to go onward to tile. I'm having more major inertia-set-in now 2 tops are done!

[newhome]

43 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I'm having more major inertia-set-in now 2 tops are done!

 

Ha ha, you and @Onoff make a good pair ?

 

You should aim to get it all done before the weather changes completely though if the room is cold and damp. 

[zoothorn]

Room's cold, only weather is damp.. basically I do a bit, then admire my handiwork.. for quite a while until I'm forced to do some more.

[Onoff]

8 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Room's cold, only weather is damp.. basically I do a bit, then admire my handiwork.. for quite a while until I'm forced to do some more.

 

I do something then think "Sh!t, could have done that better!" And then beat myself up about it.

[zoothorn]

Well I'm not thinking that with this job.. actually the opposite really for maybe 1st time ever (shows how good the help's been). Its bound to go tlts up soon mind you.. just the word 'plastering' makes me shivver, & the solid wood door I hung last year, with plenty of coats of X, & nice gaps.. (has just decided/ coinciding with weather change/ just when I got tops on) to barely close now, so I'm pretty concerned about the tops.

[newhome]

31 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

so I'm pretty concerned about the tops.

 

Lol now you really have turned into @Onoff ?. It’s done. You can only look forward ?

[PeterW]

MDF windowboard is so much easier to work with and more stable as it doesn’t shrink or move like timber. 2 coats of gloss and it’s as good as waterproof too. 

[zoothorn]

Hi Peter, I was onto this very stuff today in fact after seeing a chap buy it who said 'its stable if dry'.. in TP its stored in the open area, & dead flat so should be fine. yup 2 coats on the primed surface, just as I was thinking again too- looks like the way to go.

 

Splashback area below: if I protrude sill out 3/4" to 1" above it then it'll barely be seen @ only 3cm H. So got some cheapo white window trim 9mm x 3cm (x 5 bloomin metres!) for it. I'd be a week searching for wood effect stuff around here, then cut to 3cm/ a major faff. N/a as an ebay item or posted being 1.5m long too. So a compromise yes.. but it'll have to be.

[zoothorn]

Opinion please: cutting the sill.. should I give it some side 'wings' ? IE like a T shape with bits overhanging the sides L & R.. or leave as a 'slab'?

 

tiling around its piddly wing bits will be a major faff surely is what I'm thinking.. or is this a std job to take on board/ a nifty trick to it.

 

And what should I attatch my upvc window strip onto the pB with? clear sealant or grab stuff?

 

 

[PeterW]

UPVC goes on with grab adhesive - thin line top and bottom and wiggly line down the middle. Bead of sealant on the bottom edge for it to bed into and seal - use masking tape to keep it neat.

 

And I hate wings on cills but that is personal opinion !

[Hecateh]

I don't like wings on cills. I can't see that they serve any purpose except to get in the way.  Especially in the kitchen.

[zoothorn]

Good- no wings then.. much better. So I'm putting the placcy strip on with grab adhesive, leaving a 5mm gap below (& above to sill if I can).. then fill it with mould-resistant white silicone like Dow 825+ sanitary stuff? hope so.

[zoothorn]