zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 @PeterW where the single nogs end here (along middle, parallel to stream).. is my front cabin joist, & it sits flush on the far edge of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 6 minutes ago, zoothorn said: @PeterW where the single nogs end here (along middle, parallel to stream).. is my front cabin joist, & it sits flush on the far edge of it. So if you do your decking boards parallel to the stream you'll have no end support closest to the camera? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, Onoff said: So if you do your decking boards parallel to the stream you'll have no end support closest to the camera? Correct. This way = 1400mm (width across = 2320mm). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 So just run parallel to the front of the cabin and screw with 2 screws to every noggin, and use decent 25mm deck boards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Which way have you laid the fall on the base? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: So just run parallel to the front of the cabin and screw with 2 screws to every noggin, and use decent 25mm deck boards Ok good. I see the std redwood deck boards are 32mm: are these 'decent' enough? or maybe you're hinting these not suitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 Just now, ProDave said: Which way have you laid the fall on the base? The fall.. me only understand Mark.E.Smith. Can you elaborate ProDave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 3 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Ok good. I see the std redwood deck boards are 32mm: are these 'decent' enough? or maybe you're hinting these not suitable? 32mm is more than adequate - crack on ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: The fall.. me only understand Mark.E.Smith. Can you elaborate ProDave? When laying decking, I set it to a very slight slope. Not enough that most people realise it is on a slope, but enough to give rainwater a fighting chance of running off, and lay the planks so they run down hill and the water runs down the grooves and off the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, ProDave said: When laying decking, I set it to a very slight slope. Not enough that most people realise it is on a slope, but enough to give rainwater a fighting chance of running off, and lay the planks so they run down hill and the water runs down the grooves and off the end. Hi ProDave- Aha understood. actually I don't know, my level isn't accurate enough to say! I think its got to be a chance-thing if it runs off ok. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 Do 'decking screws' need to be used.. or is that something I can save some£ on ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 40 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Do 'decking screws' need to be used.. or is that something I can save some£ on ? Actually cheap as chips- £5 from screwfix, didn't expect that. Ok doing job today/ picking up boards (across 2320mm) in a bit. Is the idea to skilsaw cut the ends in situ, absolutely flush with the joist side? I do have joist hangar tops in places (& wondering if they'll scupper the height of some boards ends too/ raising a few ends 'up') so perhaps not. Thanks chaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 46 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Do 'decking screws' need to be used.. or is that something I can save some£ on ? Yes you can save on them now only to see them rot and replace them later! I'm always amazed how when you pull a "Screwfix Gold Screw" out of external timber after not too long it's as rusty as. However...why not just use what you've got and remember to replace later on when you've a few more quid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Actually cheap as chips- £5 from screwfix, didn't expect that. Ok doing job today/ picking up boards (across 2320mm) in a bit. Is the idea to skilsaw cut the ends in situ, absolutely flush with the joist side? I do have joist hangar tops in places (& wondering if they'll scupper the height of some boards ends too/ raising a few ends 'up') so perhaps not. Thanks chaps. Position your boards. Place a sacrificial lump of timber on top and welt with a club hammer over where the hanger is. Flip over and route out a bit where the indent is of the joist hanger. Simples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 5 minutes ago, Onoff said: Position your boards. Place a sacrificial lump of timber on top and welt with a club hammer over where the hanger is. Flip over and route out a bit where the indent is of the joist hanger. Simples. Another ace idea.. understood. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Cut the boards in half and then just let the ends overlap the frame as it will keep the joist joints drier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 2 hours ago, PeterW said: Cut the boards in half and then just let the ends overlap the frame as it will keep the joist joints drier But if I've got my posts/ rope plan to do afterwards.. shouldn't I be cutting them flush with edge of the base-? I mean surely the posts/ rope idea, is fix posts with say 2x turbos each, to the outside of the base-? if the boards overlap, posts can't do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Just now, zoothorn said: But if I've got my posts/ rope plan to do afterwards.. shouldn't I be cutting them flush with edge of the base-? I mean surely the posts/ rope idea, is fix posts with say 2x turbos each, to the outside of the base-? if the boards overlap, posts can't do so. You could cut a through housing into the post (with your router) to go over the projecting board or nibble a bit out of the board to go around the post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Could even project the boards and route a drip channel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 Just now, Onoff said: You could cut a through housing into the post (with your router) to go over the projecting board or nibble a bit out of the board to go around the post. Understood.. but isn't it far easier cutting them flush tho-? What I'm asking actually I think, is how the post/ rope idea works. have I got it right saying the posts attatch as I've outlined? I have no idea you see.. I'm only assuming this might be the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Understood.. but isn't it far easier cutting them flush tho-? It will allow water into the joint and promote rot. 11 minutes ago, zoothorn said: But if I've got my posts/ rope plan to do afterwards.. shouldn't I be cutting them flush with edge of the base-? I mean surely the posts/ rope idea, is fix posts with say 2x turbos each, to the outside of the base-? if the boards overlap, posts can't do so. Fit the posts first and notch the boards around the posts. Better to coach bolt the posts all the way through to frame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Could even project the boards and route a drip channel... I tell thee.. this click/ collect screwfix baloney arses me off. I do it & dive in a few hrs later (no mob works here) & usually pick up xyz fine. Or if its not in my branch, tells me so/ I'm aware/ & choose to drive 70m for a tub of flippin plaster from the next branch (saturday). This time I go in for my deck screws "not in yet.. tomorrow p/u.. you assumed blah blah". So my a'noon's work shot & have to drive in tmrw. I think its correct to assume if I "click/ collect" nothing tellling me beforehand its not in stock, & I've paid.. it should be there to p/u!! argh!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 2 minutes ago, PeterW said: It will allow water into the joint and promote rot. Fit the posts first and notch the boards around the posts. Better to coach bolt the posts all the way through to frame Right so now I'm waiting on screws.. I can think on the posts/ rope idea. Got 12 deck boards cut (rough) to 2.4m. So once tidied up that's only 7cm more than width of my base they're going onto. Ok so when you say coach bolt, do you mean these turbos I have? Thanks, zoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Yes but if you use turbo screws then go from both sides - that is through the post into the frame and back through the frame into the post. Have you got some creocote/preservative to paint that frame - especially the tops of the rails and all the joints - before you lay the boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 24 minutes ago, PeterW said: Yes but if you use turbo screws then go from both sides - that is through the post into the frame and back through the frame into the post. Have you got some creocote/preservative to paint that frame - especially the tops of the rails and all the joints - before you lay the boards. Ive cuprinol'd the noggin ends, but that's it. I thought being tannalised, its been done no-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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