Onoff Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 39 minutes ago, zoothorn said: That's a great idea.. using the concrete cabin corner pad: so a big diagonal strut for the big-slope RHS? Like I just said. Presumably mine was a sh!t idea? ? Think I drew it ages ago too. "a diagonal brace down to the chunky 6x6 for the other corner....." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 21 Sept 2019: Are you going to name your cabin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 @Onoff spot on idea then! must admit I didn't know at the time what these two wee lines were (or could read yr words 'brace if rqd' either) until you've just pointed them out tho. Good that's a fine plan.. just how to attatch my 3x3 at each end to consider on the long RHS one. How about for the short vertical LH cnr.. dig hole say 6" wide x 6"deep, attatch 3x3 to cnr going down into me 'ole, fill ole with postcrete -? Yes names I'm considering are as said The Cambrian Alpine Chalet, or possibly 'F&ckwit's Shed'. I'm really torn between the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 18 minutes ago, zoothorn said: How about for the short vertical LH cnr.. dig hole say 6" wide x 6"deep, attatch 3x3 to cnr going down into me 'ole, fill ole with postcrete -? Yep that’s the plan. Crack on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 19 minutes ago, zoothorn said: just how to attatch my 3x3 at each end to consider on the long RHS one. Cut at 45 degrees and just a couple of BFO screws through the bottom (drill them first) and then same through the side into the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 I'd be (coach)bolting 2 bits of 6x3 together to make that diagonal brace. It'd match the big uprights and the top "notched" detail like below would provide great support and all look flush. At the bottom I'd have it sitting on the edge of the galvanised post base then screw in as Peter says. That's just me though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Just a random thought...do you get Kingfishers up there, with the stream etc? Be great to put some bird boxes on those legs maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Just a random thought...do you get Kingfishers up there, with the stream etc? Be great to put some bird boxes on those legs maybe? I wish.. no. We had a heron many years ago, but its not really big enough for even tiddlers. Its such a haven for birds in this 'bowl' me & my gardens-join-at-hip n'bors have here (nice! been here 1 yr).. you don't need boxes. Nuthatches closet thing, in my birdy world. Dig the sketch, as always- wish I could sketch-draw like that (& I did a fine art degree!). Can't quite figure out the 'two' 6x3 bolted together tho. I get the way the low end of diag post joins/ resting on the galv top, & I think the top end joins just within the outside RH 6x3 'frame' (so if I had a 3x3 coming up from the inner side of my 6x6.. it'd join nicely in a line) & with a notch cut in top-? Will you allow me to use 3x3 or get in a flap at me for being a f&cktard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 16 hours ago, PeterW said: Cut at 45 degrees and just a couple of BFO screws through the bottom (drill them first) and then same through the side into the frame. Aha I think I get it. Btm is fine & strongest join if resting on the galv. So the top join: just nip a 45* bit off the top, & BFO screw into the outer looong RH beam, just inside nearest front? so no need to notch it/ join onto the front section-? I was thinking this front 'tagged-on' section not perhaps the strongest bit to apply this posts' weight onto + outwards. Still think 3x3 ok? Onoff thinks 6x3.. but maybe just due to better look/ matching my 6x6 pillars. This stream side not seen tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 That’s because @Onoff has the middle names “Over Engineer”..... 3x3 is more than enough - it’s only to take the bounce out of the corner and tbh the cantilever is strong enough on its own unless you’re planning to host the All Wales Fat Lad Pastie eating contest * on the deck... *I believe @Nickfromwales was the southern winner 3 years in a row ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 3 hours ago, PeterW said: That’s because @Onoff has the middle names “Over Engineer”..... 3x3 is more than enough - it’s only to take the bounce out of the corner and tbh the cantilever is strong enough on its own unless you’re planning to host the All Wales Fat Lad Pastie eating contest * on the deck... *I believe @Nickfromwales was the southern winner 3 years in a row ... My way you could likely wedge it in with no screws! Aesthetics & engineering are better all round. Flush etc. Do it Peter's way if you want Zoot. Screw another bit of 3x3 on top ofvthd first and it'll match the chunky verticals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 3 hours ago, zoothorn said: Aha I think I get it. Btm is fine & strongest join if resting on the galv. So the top join: just nip a 45* bit off the top, & BFO screw into the outer looong RH beam, just inside nearest front? so no need to notch it/ join onto the front section-? I was thinking this front 'tagged-on' section not perhaps the strongest bit to apply this posts' weight onto + outwards. Still think 3x3 ok? Onoff thinks 6x3.. but maybe just due to better look/ matching my 6x6 pillars. This stream side not seen tbh. Top end under the balcony corner...front bit does half the work. Inside bit shares the work & keeps it all there. Bottom resting on the galv shoe just keeps it up a bit out of the dirt. I'm sure it'll look the dogs danglies when done. You can relax on that deck with a beer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 20 hours ago, PeterW said: *I believe @Nickfromwales was the southern winner 3 years in a row ... I'm a changed man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 RHS diagonal support 3x3 done, turbo bolted & seems good support for this side. What's the idea with scaffold boards.. put them across (like the working two are at the mo), with a 5mm gap between.. & cut off flush with edge of my base frame? I guess then I need a handrail around 2 sides: LHS not needed as you step onto deck from here. Thanks- zH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 32 minutes ago, zoothorn said: RHS diagonal support 3x3 done, turbo bolted & seems good support for this side. What's the idea with scaffold boards.. put them across (like the working two are at the mo), with a 5mm gap between.. & cut off flush with edge of my base frame? I guess then I need a handrail around 2 sides: LHS not needed as you step onto deck from here. Thanks- zH Tidy ! Turbo bolt a couple of upstands such as 3x3 to the frame and rout the tops/sides to make them pretty and then decide what you want as a handrail..?? if its only you using it then a low board to stop you kicking anything off into the stream, and then use nice rope..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Some ideas here: https://www.edecks.co.uk/m/dept/29/Handrail-Systems The rope handrail up the spiral stairs I did on the kids treehouse. Just some Tubeclamp up top: (No, I've never finished it!) Personally I'd have two horizontal ropes then a wide top rail with routed in beer bottle holders / ash tray etc so you could lean/rest on it and contemplate your handiwork! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 (edited) On 15/06/2020 at 12:25, Onoff said: Just some Tubeclamp up top: (No, I've never finished it!) Personally I'd have two horizontal ropes then a wide top rail with routed in beer bottle holders / ash tray etc so you could lean/rest on it and contemplate your handiwork! ? All it needs is a 6ft cuckoo, a timing mechanism and a spring. ? Edited June 17, 2020 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 @Onoff great link that/ good pics of the treehouse-cabin. Yup an Onoff cuckoo gargolyle-on-bigFO spring needed. I've always wanted a spiral staircase.. might think on this as an addition to my extention balcony. A few moons away, but spurs me on! It's the softwood style handrail I want I'm certain, in the pic here https://www.edecks.co.uk/m/products/119/29/79/0/1800mm-Hand/Baserail . Only needed on 2 sides front & stream side (LHS left open, a sleeper for a step up to deck). That's a good start. I'm still considering the deck floor: 5x scaffold boards is £110.. pretty dear. Do I have enough support I wonder, IE my added nogs etc, to instead use standard decking ~5" wide boards? (usual types, seen in the edecks pic ^). gotta be cheaper surely. cheers zH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 You don't need to add any structure to what you have now - Standard Deck boards are fine over that span I would avoid using those base rails - they fill full of water and rot (unless you're just talking about using the handrail..?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 On 18/06/2020 at 16:29, PeterW said: You don't need to add any structure to what you have now - Standard Deck boards are fine over that span I would avoid using those base rails - they fill full of water and rot (unless you're just talking about using the handrail..?) Hi Peter- ok good I think I'll go with some decking boards. unless they cost even more! ah ok understand your point about the base rails. So you suggest -only- using the upright pillar bits ? I guess that means then the many 'spindles' (I think is the name) design is not feasable without base rails then-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 I think you should go with chunky posts bolted to the frame and use rope between and a simple 4x2 routed on the top of them. Job done and time for beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) On 19/06/2020 at 20:18, PeterW said: I think you should go with chunky posts bolted to the frame and use rope between and a simple 4x2 routed on the top of them. Job done and time for beer. Hi Peter- ok I agree/ going for this. So, 1stly I need to put ridged decking boards down. Would the best orientation be across-ways, like my scaffold pirate planks are? Or is this dependent on how Ive done my joists & nogs? Can I just double-check my deck base is ok (the gaps between ok, & no more nog supports needed).. I know you said fine but just want to be sure with dims: gaps between nogs (measured across, like pirate planks are) are mostly 640mm W & 720mm W (Im sure ok) but two central bigger gaps one immediately outside door (under pirate planks), & other at mid front.. are @ 780mm W. Thanks, zoot. Edited June 23, 2020 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Should run front to back - so from the door to the edge of the deck. Is there a joist available for the end of the boards nearest the door for the deck boards to land on..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 @PeterW or @Onoff or anybody.. Needing help on orientation of deck boards (32 x 125). Ideally loadwise & looking at my joists (pic^) I'd think the suggestion might be to place them from door side >> to front, the shorter 140mm dim. As my width across is 2320mm, using 4.8m boards (divided in two) would be cheaper. and I think would look better. Can I deck it this way? I guess its a Q of whether I have enough noggins in. thx zoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 42 minutes ago, PeterW said: Should run front to back - so from the door to the edge of the deck. Is there a joist available for the end of the boards nearest the door for the deck boards to land on..? Ah didnt see this reply- ok alas no, I don't have a joist near my door, the door literally sits bang on edge of my outer 6x3 'frame' joist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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