Basework on slope/ cabin.

[PeterW]

Yep but I would use the 300mm one as it gives you more to play with. 

[zoothorn]

@PeterW ok bought the toolstation stuff ^.. hope its the right one!

 

Thanks- zH

[Onoff]

11 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

So are you suggesting this? https://www.toolstation.com/damp-proof-course/p54162 And suggesting bc you know its thinnner than the textured stuff at screwfix?

 

Its JFDI yes its p'easy a 5m job.. once Ive got the right stuff. Until then its hours to trawl/ ask/ ask again etc to establish what it might be.

 

 

 

It's fine. It's 500mu thick which is 0.5mm thick. 

 

& so is this:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-course-black-30m-x-150mm/78665#product_additional_details_container

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

It's fine. It's 500mu thick which is 0.5mm thick. 

 

& so is this:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-course-black-30m-x-150mm/78665#product_additional_details_container

 

Aha good. I was wondering about what 'mu' was.. micro, erm. Anyway great.

 

Sub-floor shouldn't take long. Then its figuring out all my wall bits/ how tf which bit goes where (tho I did mark in biro on).

 

Are these simple log cabins simply fixed down by their weight alone do you know Onoff? this one was on tarmac (s/h one I dismantled) so obviously not bolted down. I do have a big sticky-outy-roof at the front in prime "lift me up scotty" config, facing due west/ IE BIG wind.

[PeterW]

8 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Aha good. I was wondering about what 'mu' was.. micro, erm. Anyway great.

 

Sub-floor shouldn't take long. Then its figuring out all my wall bits/ how tf which bit goes where (tho I did mark in biro on).

 

Are these simple log cabins simply fixed down by their weight alone do you know Onoff? this one was on tarmac (s/h one I dismantled) so obviously not bolted down. I do have a big sticky-outy-roof at the front in prime "lift me up scotty" config, facing due west/ IE BIG wind.

Needs screwing or bolting down with BFO coach screws and washers ..!! 

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Needs screwing or bolting down with BFO coach screws and washers ..!! 

 

Really? damn I need to figure this out then. not as simple as.

 

So I can screw sideways thru the lowest wall 'log' into the 2x1 floor batten. Then what 300mm threaded bar down thru these battens > all thru my base timber?

 

I think I have some ~6" turbo-screw-bolt things with the hex head to hand (I used on the base, wood to wood).. I wonder if these down & into base timber instead would suffice?

[PeterW]

39 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

I think I have some ~6" turbo-screw-bolt things with the hex head to hand (I used on the base, wood to wood).. I wonder if these down & into base timber instead would suffice?

 

Yes these will do fine - pilot drill the frame, then into the OSB, 3x2, etc. 

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Yes these will do fine - pilot drill the frame, then into the OSB, 3x2, etc. 

 

 

 

 

Found a last bit of 8m threaded bar. So could go 2x bar front & few turbo's @ back: sods for me to get in iirc.

 

Rain hampers job today/ tmrw start. I'm ready to go on my top room wall pB.. so doing a thread & last prep done (if you could dip in Peter Id be grateful!).

 

Thanks.

[PeterW]

Angle the turbos and use a ratchet. Threaded bar will be a bigger issue for you

[zoothorn]

Just now, PeterW said:

Angle the turbos and use a ratchet. Threaded bar will be a bigger issue for you

 

Gotcha- good idea. Great got my dpc (yup just thin enough I think) & turbos.

 

May start later.. I'm having teething last min checks prepping my soundbloc job.

 

thx

[zoothorn]

@PeterW & @Onoff done the sub floor! ok will attempt a pic tmrw.

 

All fine except my PIR is 5mm proud of the surrounding 3x2 frame (45 bloody mm). Many PIR offcuts used so all seams foil taped. 

 

What can I do re. the 5mm discrepency-? racked my noggin but as usual very little of worth emerges. Great start tho.

 

 

[PeterW]

Is there a 3x2 down the middle ..?? 
 

I think if you put the OSB over it and screw down from the middle toward the edges it may pull it a bit flatter, otherwise a hammer onto a piece of wood will squash the worst bits. 

[Onoff]

13 hours ago, zoothorn said:

@PeterW & @Onoff done the sub floor! ok will attempt a pic tmrw.

 

All fine except my PIR is 5mm proud of the surrounding 3x2 frame (45 bloody mm). Many PIR offcuts used so all seams foil taped. 

 

What can I do re. the 5mm discrepency-? racked my noggin but as usual very little of worth emerges. Great start 

 

1) I've used a lump of steel bar about 2" x 1/2" and a club hammer to beat the pir down in 1/2"  strips.

 

or

 

2) Cut 3" wide strips of 6mm ply. Pin to top of 3x2. 1mm won't make a difference.

 

or 

 

3) You could.....just lop off 5mm slivers of 3x2 on the chop saw and use them. (A bit flimsier instead of ripping with the grain on a table saw). Unscrew, the low, 3×2 timber. Insert the packs perpendicular to and under the 3x2. Once in place fine. 

 

or

 

4) Buy 5mm plastic packs. Unscrew, the low, 3×2 timber. Insert the packs perpendicular to and under the 3x2.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-plastic-shims-large-101-x-5-x-43mm-200-pack/95031

 

If you can stretch to it you won't look back from buying an assorted shim kit like this. Invaluable for "shed" building etc. Would be enough in this assortment and then some.

 

https://www.toolstation.com/broadfix-u-shims-kit/p52385

 

With 3) & 4) place the packs about every 200mm making sure corners are well supported. Fill any gaps later with silicone or whatever's going.

 

Edited May 27, 2020 by Onoff
Hoping a picture will save 50 of the 100 questions!

[zoothorn]

@Onoff @PeterW

 

 

[Onoff]

That looks the dogs b@llocks imho. ?

[zoothorn]

@Onoff cheers for ideas/ sketches prior post (just seen your replies chaps after I put my pics up- cam temp fixed).

 

Best idea is your 5mm insert-risers.. but for sourcing such things/ hard placcy must be (&introduces a gap for moisture/ needs careful thought).

 

As you can see floor in 3 slotted sections, crossbeam timbers just about ok: I wonder whether the interlocking ones on the PIR area might squish it down 5mm over time. The walls actually sit upon the crossbeam 1" protruding ends now I recall, getting it all out after 6 months.

 

Or I just take off crossbeams, use the floor t&g sections/ lay on the PIR.. so negating the 5mm issue. Walls instead sit on my 3x2. But I don't know how the front door area is config'd.. if it needs the crossbeam front.

[zoothorn]

6 minutes ago, Onoff said:

That looks the dogs b@llocks imho. ?

 

I aim to win the BHocd cup, & you the runner up.

[zoothorn]

Just a reminder as it was before I dismantled..

 

 

 

 

[PeterW]

18 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Or I just take off crossbeams, use the floor t&g sections/ lay on the PIR.. so negating the 5mm issue. Walls instead sit on my 3x2. But I don't know how the front door area is config'd.. if it needs the crossbeam front.

I would fit the frame to the 3x2 and then cut and fit the floor boards to the internal dimensions when it’s done. Just mark the joists and screw them down. 
 

If the front needs anything you can just pack it with a spare board. 

[Onoff]

50 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Best idea is your 5mm insert-risers.. but for sourcing such things/ hard placcy must be (&introduces a gap for moisture/ needs careful thought).

 

Just lop off 5mm slivers with your chopsaw from 3x2 offcuts. No need to buy anything. Back the screws 

out of the perimeter 3x2, lift and pack. Fill the gaps between packs with silicon. Moisture won't get in there. 

 

 

Edited May 27, 2020 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

Back to the fixing it down Q. I've put in 3x turbo bolts, each side thru floor > into 3x2. So I'm happy floor's fixed down fine.

 

But the question remains: how the cabin will be secured to it, if only the bottom log layer can be screwed to the floor-?

 

IE the cabin isn't fixed down above the lowest log. Its just reliant on gravity/ weight, to keep the roof on in a gale, I assume. It is a pretty significant weight.. but.

 

 

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Just lop off 5mm slivers with your chopsaw from 3x2 offcuts. No need to buy anything. Back the screws 

out of the perimeter 3x2, lift and pack. Fill the gaps between packs with silicon. Moisture won't get in there. 

 

 

 

Done this with dpm folded bits 3mm or so.

 

Onoff one thing's clear now: my floor t&g as you can see sits upon the 2x1 battens. So now floor fixed.. of course I have a gaps of 1.5" or so H  under the t&g floor, above the PIR. If you look at my 2nd 'shed' pic.. imagine the tarmac is my PIR.

 

Have I totally negated the function of the PIR? I mean I can close the 4 side gaps, with long PIR bits forming a frame around perimeter.. but only on the sides. There will still be these air voids, between the 2x1 floor battens.

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

I would fit the frame to the 3x2 and then cut and fit the floor boards to the internal dimensions when it’s done. Just mark the joists and screw them down. 
 

If the front needs anything you can just pack it with a spare board. 

 

Ideally I understand the suggestion: but I'm really loathed to not construct it exactly as it was dismantled, IE (like the 2nd shed pic above) the walls resting on the floor's extended edge bits.. I'm gonna have a n'mare re-constructing it as it is you see.

[PeterW]

Ok crack on then. 

[Onoff]

That's going to feel awfully high when you're doing that roof! ? Especially working over the rushing waters of the Grand Canyon!