Lynford Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Thanks all. Curiouser and curiouser ! I’ll do the TRV checks, and make sure the LS valves are open, thanks Jeremy. I did have a thought. Where terminal 3 was broken within the heat pump, and I’ve put a connector block between what went in the two sides - You mentioned that #3 is internally linked to #13. Will I need to recreate that link as I have effectively taken the terminal block out of the loop for that terminal (#3) Thanks again, Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I'm not sure. The link is on the circuit board, I suspect, so there may be a chance that it's been disturbed. If you have a multimeter, then you can easily check (with the power off) for continuity between terminals 3 and 13. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Afternoon gents.....back in Weeting again and may have a (very worrying) breakthrough. I checked all the TRVs to make sure they weren’t stuck, all good. I checked for continuity between terminals 3 & 13, yep it’s there. I turned on the ASHP and it started running, made sure that the heating was being called for and that HW request was off. Still no heating until I flicked the 3 port valve over to manual and we started getting some heat........could it be that we were stripping out the heat from the HW produced by the immersion heater ? Is that possible ? Anyway - Now for the worrying bit, especially when people place such importance on flow / pressure etc. It turns out that originally the system that was fitted was a 8kw one. This was changed before the in-laws moved in to the current 15kw one, allegedly due to it not being man enough (it’s only a 6 room + hallway bungalow). While reading the manual today I noticed that for 12kw and upwards the pipework should be 28mm, but the pipework we have is 22mm, as would have been fitted for the 8kw version. Very worrying or just me clutching at straws ? Thanks for your help, as ever. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Crank the pump up to 3 - 12kw is fine on 22mm, even 24kw gas boilers only use 22mm so you have plenty of headroom although an ASHP needs flow rate too. Sounds like a new diverter Head needed - not easy to find but some of the bigger places stock them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Thanks Peter, I was hoping that the pipe size might have had some bearing on it.......bugger ! Do you mean the 3 port valve, or just the head of it ? I had the head off the other week and it seems to rotate ok when it’s powered up / powered off. What really confused me is that when I put it on manual we started getting heat in the rads, I thought manual on those was to move the system over to HW ? Thanks, Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Is the valve stem stiff..?? Head should only go on one way - get someone else to switch the heating on and see if it whirrs when it’s on the valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 Morning all. Been off the case for a few weeks while the FIL had someone else look at it but had another go yesterday. It’s not getting anymore straightforward and has made me realise I should have started a lot more basic. First of all the HW timer was programmed all over the shop, on several days it was on for a total of 13hrs between 4am & 11pm. As this overrides the heating I thought I’d found the issue (plus the heating timer was set up all over the place as well) I still only seemed to get heat at the rads with the 3 port valve overridden using the lever. Apparently this valve was changed or repositioned when the HW cylinder was changed. It’s difficult to get in there to see but I got my phone in to get a picture.........I think the valve could have been fitted the wrong way round ? The system apparently was working before the HW cylinder was changed. I thought (think) that B on the valve should go to the HW cylinder ? Whereas it disappears into the floor so I think it goes to the rads. Meanwhile A from the valve goes into ‘Heat pump coil’ in the HW cylinder. Is this the wrong way round ? Just seems strange that if I manually move the valve over I get heat at the rads. If this is the case it’s partly my fault for not checking the very basics (programmer / valve orientation etc). Maybe too trusting that the ‘experts’ who have been around before have checked the right things or done their job properly. Thanks as as always for any help, always appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 On 08/03/2018 at 19:00, PeterW said: Is the valve stem stiff..?? Head should only go on one way - get someone else to switch the heating on and see if it whirrs when it’s on the valve. Sorry for taking a while to come back Peter. Yep, I can move the stem easily by hand and can feel it move when I switch the HW on & off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 Normally B goes to the coil in the cylinder, so it does look as if the valve may be the wrong way around. One of the experts like @Nickfromwales will be along shortly to confirm or deny this, I'm sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 B is typically DHW. As this should be a W-plan then DHW should be set to priority. The above is a mid-position for reference only, and the valve you ( should ) have should be the diverter version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 34 minutes ago, JSHarris said: Normally B goes to the coil in the cylinder, so it does look as if the valve may be the wrong way around. One of the experts like @Nickfromwales will be along shortly to confirm or deny this, I'm sure! Yup. Spin it around and it should be sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 @JSHarris @Nickfromwales Gentlemen, thank you very much. Now to work out how to spin it around without filling the bungalow with water ! The feed to the valve has an isolator underneath the pump, I’m hoping I can knock that off and I won’t get too much of a soaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 29 minutes ago, Lynford said: @JSHarris @Nickfromwales Gentlemen, thank you very much. Now to work out how to spin it around without filling the bungalow with water ! The feed to the valve has an isolator underneath the pump, I’m hoping I can knock that off and I won’t get too much of a soaking. Lol. Buy some wellies. You need to isolate the 3 pipes or your going to get very wet. Remember to isolate the electrical supply so you don't get electrocuted as well as drowned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Hugely disappointing but glad I found this in the manual before we tried to switch the valve around ! Just confuses me more why we only get heat at the rads when the valve is manually moved over...... Edited April 3, 2018 by Lynford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Is that the generic wiring diagram of the one that was with the heat pump ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 That’s from the heat pump manual Peter, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 So, is there a wiring problem that is switching the valve the wrong way, I wonder? The fact that manually moving the valve seems to suggest there may be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 do we know for sure it's the original valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynford Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Thank you all for your help......it’s a pity local tradesmen weren’t as much use as you all ! Unfortunately we never got to the bottom of whether it was an ASHP issue or a control problem and they have decided to cut their losses and get a replacement system fitted. Anyone wanna buy a 15kw Kingspan that may or may not work ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Heat pumps do seem to throw up some problems. I found the documentation for my (LG) unit appalling and some basic but vital information missing and it took many emails to customer support to finally get it working. Even then I had to diagnose and fix what I believe is a design fault to get it to work reliably. I feel there is some way to go in terms of product development, documentation and support before these will be as universally accepted and usable as a humble boiler. Which is a shame as when set up properly they are very good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 Likewise, I spent hours effectively reverse engineering ours to find out how to best control it. I think much of the problems lie with these often being badge-engineered devices, with the named manufacturer not having in-depth technical knowledge of the product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav_P Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 On 24/08/2018 at 18:13, Lynford said: Thank you all for your help......it’s a pity local tradesmen weren’t as much use as you all ! Unfortunately we never got to the bottom of whether it was an ASHP issue or a control problem and they have decided to cut their losses and get a replacement system fitted. Anyone wanna buy a 15kw Kingspan that may or may not work ? So having read all the way through this... I need to know the conclusion... what did they replace it with? Did you sell the KIngspand ASHP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav_P Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Oh and if they haven’t sold the command unit yet... ? you could have a buyer here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just be careful what room stat you use ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kb1 Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 (edited) Hi my Kingspan air source heat pump is throwing up a fault ( Unit Capacity Mismatch) this has appeared after fitting replacement Flow Switch. I’m having difficulty in contacting anybody that has an idea how to diagnose this issue. I live in Cornwall. Thank you forum . Edited May 8, 2021 by Kb1 Miss spelled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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