1st fix electrics and stud walls

[Lincolnshire Ian]

Hi all

We have the electrician on site in a couple of days to start the first-fix. He is a super-polite guy, and I want to make his job as easy as possible.

Our stud walls are up, but I don't have any plasterboard fixed (some walls are strengthened with OSB board, but not all).

Do electricians usually do first-fix in stud partition walls which already have plasterboard on one side, and maybe noggins to support the back box? Or, is it normal for electricians to lay first-fix with just the partition stud-work in place?

Just wondering how much humble pie I will need to eat

Thanks

 

[Oz07]

Normal as it is. I'd say it would be unusual to plasterboard 1 side first. They will bang their own noggins in as needed. No stress

[JohnMo]

1 hour ago, Lincolnshire Ian said:

and maybe noggins to support the back box

Aren't you using this sort of back box with plasterboard, so no additional supports are needed?

 

[Mattg4321]

24 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

Normal as it is. I'd say it would be unusual to plasterboard 1 side first. They will bang their own noggins in as needed. No stress

This. 
 

Dry lining/plasterboard boxes are not as good as metal knockout boxes and nogs in my opinion. 
 

If one side is already boarded it can sometimes make it slightly trickier to wire, so prefer not. 

[ProDave]

It's a personal thing but I like dry lining boxes.  Buy the Appleby ones like the picture above, they are good and reliable.  Some other makes with different methods of locating them can be dreadful. 

 

My top tip.  Run socket cables horizontally around the room at socket height all the way round, with a bit of slack in the cable every now and then.  Then in the future you can cut an extra hole in the plasterboard anywhere and add an extra socket, you know the one you forgot you might need.

[Thorfun]

9 hours ago, ProDave said:

My top tip.  Run socket cables horizontally around the room at socket height all the way round, with a bit of slack in the cable every now and then.

This is a top tip that I followed. And not only for the reason you say, it also saves a lot of cable by not going up and down to the ceiling every time!

[ProDave]

Tip No 2.  If you have a stud wall that is OSB boarded one side (for racking), BEFORE you fit the plasterboard, cut a hole in the OSB bigger than a socket box.  Then cut the correct size hole in the plasterboard once fitted.

[Lincolnshire Ian]

Thanks everyone. Very helpful. 

[Nickfromwales]

8 hours ago, ProDave said:

Tip No 2.  If you have a stud wall that is OSB boarded one side (for racking), BEFORE you fit the plasterboard, cut a hole in the OSB bigger than a socket box.  Then cut the correct size hole in the plasterboard once fitted.

Wanted to do this for current clients job, but acoustics were very important to him so 2nd fix will be a PITA. Tight cuts and all foamed out etc.

 

Will get those Appleby boxes, the wings look much better on those than the ones I used last.

[JohnMo]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

Will get those Appleby boxes, the wings

You can get them for different thicknesses of board and double board.

[Nickfromwales]

15 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

You can get them for different thicknesses of board and double board.

Yes, saw those too. Some walls are 11mm OSB plus 12.5mm board, others just board, and some double DB board over Reducto framework.

 

I’ll do a proper shopping list when 2nd fix comes about. 

[Mattg4321]

11 hours ago, ProDave said:

It's a personal thing but I like dry lining boxes.  Buy the Appleby ones like the picture above, they are good and reliable.  Some other makes with different methods of locating them can be dreadful. 

 

My top tip.  Run socket cables horizontally around the room at socket height all the way round, with a bit of slack in the cable every now and then.  Then in the future you can cut an extra hole in the plasterboard anywhere and add an extra socket, you know the one you forgot you might need.

Appleby boxes have always been my choice as they are generally the best. It’s is annoying though trying to use them when it’s double plasterboarded. 
 

Also, when using dry liners in general,

if you fit them before plaster skim, make them a snug fit or they’ll move and pull a lump of plaster out at second fix. Why they set the locking tabs on the Appleby boxes at roughly 15mm thick, rather than 12.5mm (so they wouldn’t move) I will never know!!

 

If you fit them after skim, then you will have a fairly ugly lip, visible with flat plate sockets etc. 

 

Also, if you want to remove one for access, and it’s fitted before the skim, it will make a mess to some extent or other. 
 

You also can’t fit them hard up against a stud as no room for the wing. 
 

Also, it’ll be an extra visit to the job if fitted before the skim as can’t be done at 1st fix. 
 

For all those reasons it’s knockout boxes for me!

 

FYI if you want the Appleby boxes get them very soon. They are already disappearing from the wholesalers in my experience recently. I’ve moved over to the Click essentials ones. Can be used with double board and the lugs don’t flop around like some of the cheap stuff does. 

[FuerteStu]

I'd always go for metal boxes on noggin rather than dry lining boxes. I think they are too flimsy personally. 

 

If you want a good finish, I'd highly recommend socket and switch beads before skimming. They make a fantastic finish. 

[Spinny]

These may be of interest...

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXTWB24.html

And

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXBS.html

And

https://www.cmsdanskin.co.uk/refurbishment-noisy-neighbours/noise-reduction-for-building-elements/karma-putty-pads/

And

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWoK3iBatCc

https://youtu.be/VltFR-kXtcw?si=zuMMtrpVDckEyvoK

[Nickfromwales]

Clients already bought the putty pads. 👍

[crispy_wafer]

I do like them Beadmaster socket and switchbox covers, my only problem was cutting the holes for the backboxes too tight for them to fit so I had to spend a morning wizzing round trimming and cleaning up.