Source of intumescent downlight hoods?

[markharro]

Can anyone recommend? We will probably only fit 5-6 recessed downlights in the whole house but seem to recall building control had specified need to use these hoods if installing in insulation as will be as the GF/FF ceiling void will have 100mm acoustic insulation. Thanks.

[Russell griffiths]

I believe you will need fire rated downlights downstairs, find the ones that don’t need a hood. 

[Alan Ambrose]

Yeah +1. There are also hoods if you are retrofitting e.g. thermahood.

[ProDave]

Just use fire rated lights.  It is a LONG time since I have used those horrible cheap and nasty open frame ones.  And just leave a gap in the insulation around the light.  This is acoustic insulation., a lot less critical than thermal insulation.

[Nickfromwales]

Just get Aurora compact depth ones, which are fire rated and acoustic rated, ticking both boxes. 
 

https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/aurora-en-fd103sn-gu10-ip65-86mm-acoustic-compact-fire-downlight-satin-nickel.html

[markharro]

Thanks for the advice. Turns out that the the lights we have are fire rated. Another connected issue though. Our electrician has wired one of our shower room switches to power a downlight and an LED strip. The LED will I think be 24V so will need a driver and the downlight is mains voltage. I called the manufacturer of the downlight and they recommended not to use it with the low voltage LED strip. So do I need a 24V downlight for these to work properly together? If so any links to a decent IP65 and fire rated 24V downlight? 

[Mike]

For interest, here in France intumescent downlight hoods aren't a thing - at least I've never come across them. Instead they currently mandate this type of fire-resistant, air-tight, & acoustic hood, mostly made from compressed vermiculite, unless LED downlighters suitable for direct contact with insulation are used (which they often are):

 

 

 

Edited February 25 by Mike

[JohnMo]

14 hours ago, markharro said:

Thanks for the advice. Turns out that the the lights we have are fire rated. Another connected issue though. Our electrician has wired one of our shower room switches to power a downlight and an LED strip. The LED will I think be 24V so will need a driver and the downlight is mains voltage. I called the manufacturer of the downlight and they recommended not to use it with the low voltage LED strip. So do I need a 24V downlight for these to work properly together? If so any links to a decent IP65 and fire rated 24V downlight? 

Ours on the same double switch. It's nice to have the option of brightly lit or just a strip of light on our kickboards.

[Super_Paulie]

for what its worth i used these open frame jobs and seemed decent enough. House hasnt burned down yet, i just pushed the acoustic wool out of the way with the bulb frame.

 

https://integral-led.com/en/catalog/node/evofire

[markharro]

On 25/02/2025 at 18:27, markharro said:

Our electrician has wired one of our shower room switches to power a downlight and an LED strip. The LED will I think be 24V so will need a driver and the downlight is mains voltage. I called the manufacturer of the downlight and they recommended not to use it with the low voltage LED strip. So do I need a 24V downlight for these to work properly together? If so any links to a decent IP65 and fire rated 24V downlight? 

Hoping @ProDave might be able to answer the above as its next to impossible to get hold of our own electrician at the moment. Will a 12 or 24V LED strip work on the same switch as a mains downlight? I have spoked to one LED strip supplier who advise against it saying (I think) that inrush current from driver might effect the downlight!? Not sure how or why or what they mean in practical terms. Another said ok to mix but only with standard on/off switch - you would not be able to use a dimmer!?

[ProDave]

There is no hard or fast rule.  Try rigging it up on a bench before comitting just to ensure there are no problems.

 

By the way I never use low voltage downlights, that is just one more thing to fail.  I much prefer GU10 mains downlight with LED lamps in them.

 

I walk a mile from any that do not have replaceable lamps, because you can almost guarantee in a few years when a sealed one fails you can't buy identical replacements.

[Nickfromwales]

On 26/02/2025 at 10:22, Super_Paulie said:

for what its worth i used these open frame jobs and seemed decent enough. House hasnt burned down yet, i just pushed the acoustic wool out of the way with the bulb frame.

 

https://integral-led.com/en/catalog/node/evofire

I think it was a huge worry with halogen lamps of old as the surface temp of those could get to >200°C!!

 

LEDs run pretty cool by comparison, so when encapsulated in a FR down light I think being against rock wool (naturally fire retardant anyways) I doubt there’s ever going to be an issue in reality.

 

Not having these pushed tight against combustible materials is obvs just good practice / common sense. 

[Temp]

On 25/02/2025 at 18:27, markharro said:

Thanks for the advice. Turns out that the the lights we have are fire rated. Another connected issue though. Our electrician has wired one of our shower room switches to power a downlight and an LED strip. The LED will I think be 24V so will need a driver and the downlight is mains voltage. I called the manufacturer of the downlight and they recommended not to use it with the low voltage LED strip. So do I need a 24V downlight for these to work properly together? If so any links to a decent IP65 and fire rated 24V downlight? 

 

Wait for the electrician and talk to him. I think the downlight Co is talking nonsense.

 

Where is the LED strip going?  The LED driver will need to be minimum distances away from wet areas and possibly hidden away in the ceiling with 24V wiring to the strip.

 

I have three 230V LED downlights and a mirror with LED strip back-light all on one switch. The driver is built into the back of the mirror.

[cjsparkey]

Personal preference but even with fire rated led downlights I fit hoods or form a plasterboard box to keep the insulation from being in direct contact with the fitting, allowing some air space around the fitting.

Manufacturers usually specify a minimum free airspace around the fitting, this can be as little as 30mm on some but worth checking.

Some fittings can be supplied with optional insulation guards to stop the installation coming into direct contact with the fitting.

Edited Monday at 19:47 by cjsparkey

[Spinny]

Just a thought, you could consider adding a smart switch module into the wiring to enable the LED to be controlled independently.

[Temp]

14 hours ago, Spinny said:

Just a thought, you could consider adding a smart switch module into the wiring to enable the LED to be controlled independently.

 

Some LED drivers come with a remote control device allowing brightness and colour to be changed. Needs the right type of LED strip.

 

The one we have remembers the settings when the power is switched off so you don't need to use the remote often. 

[Super_Paulie]

i have a Sonoff at the switch and every bulb is a Tapo so can dim, change whites or any colour you fancy. Wont ever use it, but you know, "Smart stuff".