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'How to sort it tips' from joiners please?


saveasteading

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I have been very slowly constructing a toilet enclosure, using 4 x 2 and osb.

It is under cover but open to the air.

 

As I am working alone, and not the strongest,  I have limited the size of premade panels, and some details aren't too clever.

 

At an external corner, I have  studs on both panels and didn't fix them together at the top. . With leaving it a fortnight, one of the studs has bent in the 4" direction, and there is a gap of about 30mm.

 

Any tips on how to bend that back before I whack a big screw or 2 through?

 

I have vague recollections of my father using wires on nails, perhaps levering with a claw hammer or nail bar.

 

I am doing this dreadfully slowly. nothing is quite square or lining up. The main lesson is that properly, fully  made panels on the ground and including the osb, must be the way, if there is muscle available to heave them up. Also that a lumpy concrete floor makes panel building on it very tricky.

Fortunately a rough* job will suffice, as it will be site toilets and then a  workshop toilet.

*Characterful /  rustic

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Do you have a photo?

 

It sounds like you might be able to put a screw in so that the head is exposed, then use your claw hammer to lever the stud back into place before securing with more screws, but a photo would really help to explain the best options.

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This just shows my pet hate with wood.  Wood just wants to warp.  The quicker you can get it from the merchant, cut and made into what you want and screwed together tight to stop it warping the better.

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2 hours ago, Alan Ambrose said:

big screw plus big assed jemmy

I have a suitable implement already. 

holding that in tension while driving the screw , while on a stepladder, may be the challenge.

 

4 hours ago, ProDave said:

Wood just wants to warp.

 

I should not have given it the opportunity.

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Exactly so.

At the second attempt the windlass brought it to 10mm. Any tighter and the flex was about to break again...twisting failure.

From there I used a heavy threaded hex head screw, with a predrilled hole in the 2" stud to clear the threads. One at about 600mm down , pulled it in tight there. Repeated at top.

There was lots of pinging of osb screws so that needs looking at.

 

Simply in looking for the photo I saw the windlass potential, so it goes down as another success for BH.

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Thats what's so much good fun about joinery : its about how to deal with stuff thats somehow got out of line. Straight lines, straight cuts are easy.

Our tame chippy says that dealing with bent houses - and there are loads hereabouts is the core of his job. 

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2 hours ago, saveasteading said:

20240903_123417.thumb.jpg.3a1d4e9e6998fd2f278b09ce5150573a.jpgHere it is. A powerful clamp would do it but I don't have one.

Going to try a Spanish windlass.

 

so you built the corner wrong. the top plates need to be continuous and not floating in the air, BCO should fail it as its structurally not safe. Google California corner....

 

Whats with the osb not cut or fixed square? 

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1 hour ago, Dave Jones said:

BCO should fail it as its structurally not safe.

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 it’s an outside bog in a shed 🤷‍♂️

Edited by joe90
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On 02/09/2024 at 17:58, saveasteading said:

I have been very slowly constructing a toilet enclosure, using 4 x 2 and osb.

It is under cover but open to the air.

 

As I am working alone, and not the strongest,  I have limited the size of premade panels, and some details aren't too clever.

 

At an external corner, I have  studs on both panels and didn't fix them together at the top. . With leaving it a fortnight, one of the studs has bent in the 4" direction, and there is a gap of about 30mm.

 

Any tips on how to bend that back before I whack a big screw or 2 through?

 

I have vague recollections of my father using wires on nails, perhaps levering with a claw hammer or nail bar.

 

I am doing this dreadfully slowly. nothing is quite square or lining up. The main lesson is that properly, fully  made panels on the ground and including the osb, must be the way, if there is muscle available to heave them up. Also that a lumpy concrete floor makes panel building on it very tricky.

Fortunately a rough* job will suffice, as it will be site toilets and then a  workshop toilet.

*Characterful /  rustic

Ok it's not worked out that well.

 

If you are embarking on a big TF stick build project then you need a saw bench made from timber with a good top quality chop saw. You fix solidly the saw bench to any floor and at night you take the chop saw home so it does not get nicked. Expect to pay around £700 - £900 for a good saw and blade. On a big kit you need a saw with a 300mm blade that does compound cuts. Don't mince about.

 

This way you can fabricate a TF frame to the same tolerances as a TF fabricator.

 

OK so you are not 21 years old any more. Making Tf panels if working on you own..  on site and lifting them up. You square the panels with the odd OSB board. Then lift them and sheet after. To stop the sheets dropping you use a temporary ledger at the bottom and then tilt them into place.

 

Now I'm an old codger I've figured out how to stick build a TF for the folk that are 60 plus.. and have done it myself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 03/09/2024 at 16:09, Alan Ambrose said:

ventilation maybe?

Exactly. No need for it to reach the roof or have a ceiling. But if I do put a ceiling on I might leave the gap.

I simply decided to let the osb rest on the floor (it's on a concrete plinth) so it was short at the top. Plus the plinth is miles off level.No sole plate as that was another piece of wood.....

Obv I could add a top plate if I want.

 

I've learnt that this is tricky. Panels on the ground are very heavy. Leaving off the osb leaves them wobbly. Stick building in the air is very tricky. Def a 2 person job.

 

 

No building regs. It's an existing pair of wcs in an outbuilding, where the enclosures had been removed for some reason. Goes to a septic tank.

Site toilet is quite a bonus.

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