Adsibob Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 (edited) I have a decent, but fairly standard, DeWalt drill. I was going to buy this attachment so that I can drill a hole in a metal shed (to install a fan): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bi-Metal-Circular-cutting-Aluminium-Plywood/dp/B0C5S2SLNB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=33ZWDR8LTKVEX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ARPeSrNGQMPRNfjzQ9nT8LphOneBxp2bq77vCw3dNc09_eghTYXsvasiAUgoqvNZIFu6aPsLXKQQ1YeOPkiAFgNe3dYxf3f0-Nlf3FL7pXrjp3ElUq7r0i18Y6Cv-O6IBGyYsyqILTHtRZ8C2H4wTDvop6UaSS9o6pk0XcKDbiuXyBLFFjsDmbMt7IHB7xKmbgz5r1WS1uh902DLQGyFKtHAOwoGlU2tBaBHlxfIWQfZI6BicmWDDXsLcSKDS8WY9_fD3tHAQMYy3JjmNH2nNzAD8RbRTiaoj1tFVE29kaE.bDwPej6-V36XehdviYliDWy8assgN-rpKps7FC_sPjU&dib_tag=se&keywords=hole%2Bsaw%2B105mm&qid=1709312139&sprefix=hole%2Bsaw%2B105mm%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Will this go straight into my drill, or do I also need an arbor, which appears to be the case with competing products, such as this one from Screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-multi-material-holesaw-102mm/42986#product_additional_details_container I'm totally clueless, this will be the biggest hole I have ever drilled. What does an arbor do? Edited March 1 by Adsibob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 It looks like the ebay one comes ready to go. Be warned that these can sometimes catch in the material and twist your wrist. When it starts cutting, just adjust the speed and pressure so it makes decent progress and clears away as it goes. You will see when you have the right balance of pressure and speed. Wear goggles too as an eyeful of swarf is a bit uncomfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvin Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 You need the arbor which the one from Amazon includes. You need to buy it separately for the one from Screwfix. Don’t be tempted to cut quickly, go nice and steady. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 The teeth on that one look a bit coarse to me for cutting metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Your first link is a complete hole saw that will fit the drill and get you going. your second is what trades generally use, so you can swap out hole saws and arbours when individual parts wear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Remember to get some cutting liquid, squirt of WD40 easier if someone else sprays the the saw while you hold on with 2 hands!! if the drill has a clutch use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Both your options will probably do the job. Personally I'd opt for something from the likes of Starrett, like this one made for sheet steel: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starrett-FCH0400-102-Hole-Saw/dp/B01AWFCKDM?th=1 together with the appropriate arbor: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starrett-Quick-Hitch-Arbor-Extra-Length/dp/B001LF8F0A?ref_=ast_sto_dp 50 minutes ago, Adsibob said: What does an arbor do? The arbor holds the hole saw in place, allows you to attach it to the drill and it drills a pilot hole in the centre of the hole and acts as a guide. For the size of hole you're looking to make, use a slow speed on the drill and be patient. A little cutting fluid like CT-90 can also help to prevent heat build up and eases the whole operation a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 If you mean metal cladding about 1mm thick then I have used very ordinary 110mm hole saws from toolstation. One use and throw away. That was on high quality steel cladding. Most is softer. Yes, as above, beware of wrist wrenching, especially if it isn't a flat part of the sheet. If you could find a saw with smaller teeth and made just for metal then it would be easier, but they cost a lot more. Yes, you need an arbor. It has pins that lock into holes in the base of the saw. Your link shows the cutter with an arbor but it will be extra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adsibob Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 Thanks guys. Can’t figure out from the source how thick the metal is. It just says: “made from strong, thick, galvanised steel, which means it is rust-resistant”. The overall weight is 99kg and there is 9.23m^2 of material in total. Average density of galvanised steel is 7850kg per cubic metre. That means I have 99/7850 of a cubic meter of steel so thickness is about 1.4mm thick. Does that sound about right? Obviously calipers would be useful here, but I’m saving up for some hole cutting tools… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Is this your bike shed? Just get the cheapest hole saw and it will be fine. No need to go overboard with this. It is a simple job as you will find out, in about 30 seconds of starting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 I have used those Amazon ones on wood and @saveasteading is right, mind your wrist, if(when) they jam they kick like a mule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 9 hours ago, Adsibob said: Thanks guys. Can’t figure out from the source how thick the metal is. It just says: “made from strong, thick, galvanised steel, which means it is rust-resistant”. The overall weight is 99kg and there is 9.23m^2 of material in total. Average density of galvanised steel is 7850kg per cubic metre. That means I have 99/7850 of a cubic meter of steel so thickness is about 1.4mm thick. Does that sound about right? Obviously calipers would be useful here, but I’m saving up for some hole cutting tools… 0.5, 0.7, 1.0 & 1.2mm are the most common thicknesses. 0.7mm being mostly used. I would hazard the crenulations increase the surface area so probably 1mm thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Thicker sheets are often softer metal so it should be ok. 45 minutes ago, George said: crenelations increase the surface area Quite a lot. And the overlap. So 1mm or so seems likely. Professional cladders would cut this with snips but it is a great skill. Another option is to use a nibbler. Again takes practice. So try the hole cutter. Start slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Use the hole-saw (Erbauer one will be a stronger option) to first drill a template hole in some waste material such as 12/15mm plywood / OSB. Then, lay that on the item to be drilled, with a knee on the wood or clamps. Use that to prevent the hole-saw from 'departing' and use high revs / little downward pressure. Bobs your Uncle, no need for Fanny. The critical thing is to keep the saw at 90o to the workpiece, and do NOT stop drilling until you are 100% sure you are through the metal. A good option is to put timber under this so you have something other than air underneath the cut (keeps the saw trained right the way through the cut) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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