Back to Wall Pan on Wonky Wall

[Grosey]

I've ended up with this situation, wall not quite upright I believe, anyway it is what it is and now needs to be snagged. CT1 or any better ideas?

 

also what colour would look tidiest here? White to match pan or black to match the unit?

 

And no the level is not upright before anyone says 

[Onoff]

Just amazed  you've not got Roger squatting on it!

 

So why's it like that then?

 

You're going to need some of that push in foam stuff before you silicon that. I can send you a length if you want?

[Nickfromwales]

Hold fire sealing that. It CANNOT be left like that, it's simply not safe. 

Who fitted it, and who says that's caused by the wall ?

[Triassic]

Is the pan floor or wall mounted, it's not clear from your photo.

[Onoff]

Sorry, just read wall not upright. I was sipping Green King IPA at the the time...

[RichS]

Looks like it floor mounted to me but the wall isn't plumb or the floors not level. Either option it's not a 90 deg junction and that's causing the problem.

 

[bassanclan]

It looks like its out by 20mm out over about 500mm?

Is it the floor or wall that is out. (Have you double checked for a manufacturing defect in the pan)

[Nickfromwales]

Oh yes, thought it was wall hung for a moment there.  

Just saw the fixing screw covers at the bottom . 

 

2 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

It looks like its out by 20mm out over about 500mm?

Is it the floor or wall that is out. (Have you double checked for a manufacturing defect in the pan)

Took the words right out of my mouth 

[Russell griffiths]

We brought a ceramic double sink, it had a dish in the surface that mounted on the wall, out by15mm give it a good check, and then check the wall floor junction something is way out. 

[Grosey]

I fixed it, in the past few hours I have removed the tiles, taken down the stud partition, levelled up the wall, Re-boarded, retiled, regrouted, refitted the toilet to now only have a 2-3mm gap to seal...

 

 

 

(Either that or I realised it was me being daft) ?

 

P.S - side fixing toilet brackets are a weird bastard of a thing, hopefully I'll have the hang of it by the 7th toilet in this house!

 

P.P.S - thanks buildhub, sometimes just posting your ridiculous problem is enough to help make you think about it enough to solve it!

Edited September 8, 2017 by Grosey

[jamiehamy]

4 minutes ago, Grosey said:

I fixed it, in the past few hours I have removed the tiles, taken down the stud partition, levelled up the wall, Re-boarded, retiled, regrouted, refitted the toilet to now only have a 2-3mm gap to seal...

 

 

 

(Either that or I realised it was me being daft) ?

 

P.S - side fixing toilet brackets are a weird bastard of a thing, hopefully I'll have the hang of it by the 7th toilet in this house!

 

P.P.S - thanks buildhub, sometimes just posting your ridiculous problem is enough to help make you think about it enough to solve it!

Good job! 

[Russell griffiths]

Ha ha, I typed out a big reply earlier telling you to either take the wall down or level the floor but you must fix that as there's a cock up there for sure. 

I deleted it before posting as I sometimes get accused of being a bit quick to point out negatives

shows I was right glad you fixed it looking at that gap would have driven me mad. 

[Grosey]

27 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Ha ha, I typed out a big reply earlier telling you to either take the wall down or level the floor but you must fix that as there's a cock up there for sure. 

I deleted it before posting as I sometimes get accused of being a bit quick to point out negatives

shows I was right glad you fixed it looking at that gap would have driven me mad. 

 

I was wondering myself how I'd made such a cockup on the wall, and if my floor was out by that much I'd have been in big trouble before now!

[ProDave]

1 hour ago, Grosey said:

 

I was wondering myself how I'd made such a cockup on the wall, and if my floor was out by that much I'd have been in big trouble before now!

Could it be like the stud wall I am battling with?

 

When I put it up well over 6 months ago, the 4 by 2's were straight. Now I come to plasterboard them, some have warped one way, some have warped the other way, and nearly all have twisted.  Sometimes I hate wood.

[Nickfromwales]

6 hours ago, Grosey said:

I fixed it, in the past few hours I have removed the tiles, taken down the stud partition, levelled up the wall, Re-boarded, retiled, regrouted, refitted the toilet to now only have a 2-3mm gap to seal...

 

 

 

(Either that or I realised it was me being daft) ?

 

P.S - side fixing toilet brackets are a weird bastard of a thing, hopefully I'll have the hang of it by the 7th toilet in this house!

 

P.P.S - thanks buildhub, sometimes just posting your ridiculous problem is enough to help make you think about it enough to solve it!

That's more like it

 

[Triassic]

13 hours ago, Grosey said:

P.S - side fixing toilet brackets are a weird bastard of a thing, hopefully I'll have the hang of it by the 7th toilet in this house!

I never use them. The last three toilets were siliconed to the floor tile. My two chubbster friends have used them and they've never moved.

[Onoff]

44 minutes ago, Triassic said:

My two chubbster friends have used them and they've never moved.

 

That's why they're fatties! Eat less move more!

[Grosey]

50 minutes ago, Triassic said:

I never use them. The last three toilets were siliconed to the floor tile. My two chubbster friends have used them and they've never moved.

 

If this is an option people recommend I'd happily go with it, as those brackets really were a pain in the ass to fit, and then putting the screws in the sides was kicking the pan about in various different ways depending which screwhole it found - that was my original problem here.  It also means I can avoid having to drill my porcelain tiles again which is another chore!

[Nickfromwales]

Bond down every time for me, I almost never use any form of mechanical fixing for WC pans. I push the pan back into place and mask all the way round with PVC electrical tape, then lift the pan from the inside throat and get 2 plastics wedges / packers in, one each side, to elevate it slightly. Then squeeze a bead of clear CT1 under and right round. Drop the pan into the CT1 and clear of the displaced excess goop with baby wipes. Use loads of them and keep going until you can't see any goop. Peel the masking tape up and go around one last time with the wipes. Push the pan back against the wall and make sure it's centre and square. Check for any exposed goop one last time and then leave well alone for 24hours.

I don't ever bond the backs of the pans against the vertical / wall as its just not necessary. Simply apply a cosmetic bead of silicone across the back and down the two sides for gap filling and aesthetics only. A lot easier to get the pan back out if you haven't bonded it back as well as down . 

[Grosey]

5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Bond down every time for me, I almost never use any form of mechanical fixing for WC pans. I push the pan back into place and mask all the way round with PVC electrical tape, then lift the pan from the inside throat and get 2 plastics wedges / packers in, one each side, to elevate it slightly. Then squeeze a bead of clear CT1 under and right round. Drop the pan into the CT1 and clear of the displaced excess goop with baby wipes. Use loads of them and keep going until you can't see any goop. Peel the masking tape up and go around one last time with the wipes. Push the pan back against the wall and make sure it's centre and square. Check for any exposed goop one last time and then leave well alone for 24hours.

I don't ever bond the backs of the pans against the vertical / wall as its just not necessary. Simply apply a cosmetic bead of silicone across the back and down the two sides for gap filling and aesthetics only. A lot easier to get the pan back out if you haven't bonded it back as well as down . 

 

Thats really good advice, thank you. What colour silicone do you usually go for on the back & side of the pan? White to match the pan or coloured to match the unit/furniture?

Edited September 9, 2017 by Grosey

[Nickfromwales]

White is usually the norm TBH. Remember, less is more 

[Grosey]

@Nickfromwales would CT1 also be suitable for bonding down the brackets of a freestanding Bath? Drilling the porcelain tiles is really starting to kill me!

 

I see CT1 also do a specific grab and bond version?

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, Grosey said:

@Nickfromwales would CT1 also be suitable for bonding down the brackets of a freestanding Bath? Drilling the porcelain tiles is really starting to kill me!

 

I see CT1 also do a specific grab and bond version?

What are you using to drill the porcelain?

[Grosey]

This -

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-bit-6-x-67mm/51908

 

It does work but approx 20mins per hole, I've already drilled 22 holes in the previous en suite during second fix and I'm losing the will to live haha! 

 

I used the tilers diamond core bits whilst he was on site and they took a similar amount of time. 

Edited September 17, 2017 by Grosey

[Nickfromwales]

You using them dry ? 

When i drill porcelain on the deck I cheat. Get a gun with some decorators caulk and make a dam about 50mm in diameter with the caulk, surrounding but away from where the hole is to be made. Fill it with water and then drill the hole wet. You'll find it drills much quicker, and it massively reduces wear on the bit.