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Assistance with Soil/Waste pipes penetrations through foundations


mike2016

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I've been trying to get a plumber to help me with the pipe penetrations all week but need to make some progress on this before the end of the month for the structural engineer. So I'm throwing this out to the BuildHub community and humbling asking for assistance once again!! 

I need to know where I'll need to install waste/drains through the foundations (Kore Raft)

I've overlaid the upstairs WC/Shower/Wash hand basins in yellow so drains can be joined up where it makes sense. 

I've added the provisional house sewer line around the outside in orange, draining to the left and up to the top of the image where the fall runs

 

Main Bathroom - will all these need their own independent connections to the outside drain? So they head to the outside wall by the shortest path as I've shown? Can any be combined? 

Utility Room - drain required for washing machine/dryer/mvhr and ideally I'd like one in the center floor in case of appliance flooding / failure

Kitchen Island - drain required for sink and possibly dish washer

Above Utility is an ensuite - shower, sink and WC - do these require their own connections / can they join any others below them? 

Above and behind stairs is a WC/Sink only. The issue is there's Pozi joists in use going from top to bottom, but the red line is a structural wall and this will be solid. The SVP might need to be on the other side in the hallway for this to work? 

 

I'd appreciate any insights / help so at least I have a rough idea what can connect to what and what direction it should go. I'll ring around plumbers again next week but having some insight on the quantity & direction of foundation penetrations would be awesome! Thank you so much!

drains.jpg

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That looks pretty good to me. I like drain runs to be simple and to get out of the building ASAP

 

All I would change, if possible,  is right angled bends indoors. Either take these at about 45° and then have a 45° junction, or use a slow bend or 45° then short straight then 45°. Then they won't block, but if they do, they are roddable 

 

The downside is the multiple pipes through the outer wall/ footing but it just the once.

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Thanks - I think that drain I hooked a right angle into was just done that way to avoid obscuring the yellow markup of the fixtures above it.

 

Surprised there are that many drain penetrations needed to be honest, was hoping some might hook up / converge internally but as that's likely to happen within / underneath the EPS of the raft anyway, probably not much difference in the end! Just need to consider air admittance valves and see where the upper stacks go and how to route that bottom right WC vs the structural wall. 

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You generally don't have a drain outside for each bathroom item, one drain/soil pipe that takes it all, looking at that your utility sink could also go through the wall into that as well.

 

Generally, you design a house so that a soil-pipe comes in, then goes straight up,so rooms above can also use it (bathrooms/en suites etc).

 

Bottom right SVP I would have that go into a big curve, no need for access there, you can rod from the manhole in bottom left. If you wan't one crack on, but you want as few manholes as possible (for visual reasons anyway).

 

 

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1 minute ago, crooksey said:

You generally don't have a drain outside for each bathroom item, one drain/soil pipe that takes it all, looking at that your utility sink could also go through the wall into that as well.

 

Generally, you design a house so that a soil-pipe comes in, then goes straight up,so rooms above can also use it (bathrooms/en suites etc).

 

Bottom right SVP I would have that go into a big curve, no need for access there, you can rod from the manhole in bottom left. If you wan't one crack on, but you want as few manholes as possible (for visual reasons anyway).

 

 


I’m glad someone has said this as this is how I laid mine out with the groundsworker. We have one pop up per room that needs it plus the island and joins are at angled and one in the garage for the water softener. We have two manholes one at each end of the house 3m from the gable ends. 

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1 hour ago, Kelvin said:


I’m glad someone has said this as this is how I laid mine out with the groundsworker. We have one pop up per room that needs it plus the island and joins are at angled and one in the garage for the water softener. We have two manholes one at each end of the house 3m from the gable ends. 

The problem with one pop up per room is that you need above ground - and visible - pipe work inside your house. This is grand if you are going with a Geberit system or creating a false wall but not great if you just box around your pipes which is not visually attractive.

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On 15/03/2023 at 14:12, ETC said:

The problem with one pop up per room is that you need above ground - and visible - pipe work inside your house. This is grand if you are going with a Geberit system or creating a false wall but not great if you just box around your pipes which is not visually attractive.

 

Any decent bathroom fitter deals with this on a daily basis and its never an issue, you are building from scratch, I am sure you can design it accordingly. 

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  • 1 month later...

The benefit of a back inlet gulley for ground floor appliances over simply connecting them to a svp is that if the drain blocks the gulley overflows outside. Without a gulley the first you know of it is when the appliance itself stops draining and you have sink full of yuk. Both work but a BIG is also useful for pouring away horrible stuff in buckets................

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