October 10, 20233 yr 5 hours ago, JohnBishop said: Can I order BZP rods Yes. You're over thinking it, it's a shed.
October 10, 20233 yr Author 6 hours ago, Onoff said: Yes. You're over thinking it, it's a shed. I know what you mean, I just want it to last. I have these Tarmac 3.6N blocks and I am not sure if these are good, last as long as the e.g. the 7N ones. They go on top of wide council slabs but I they deteriorate the shed will sink.
October 10, 20233 yr 11 minutes ago, JohnBishop said: I know what you mean, I just want it to last. I have these Tarmac 3.6N blocks and I am not sure if these are good, last as long as the e.g. the 7N ones. They go on top of wide council slabs but I they deteriorate the shed will sink. Then you jack up the shed and slide the 7N in their place
October 13, 20233 yr Author I think I found a long enough drill bit. The longest hole will be ~30cm and I found a 60cm drill bit. Bosch Formwork which is available in 6mm diameter the others I come across e.g. 35cm long is minimum for M8 or maybe I should just up it to M8. The price of the rods and nuts isn't much different.
October 13, 20233 yr Author 3 hours ago, dpmiller said: a 2 foot long 6mm drill? Good luck keeping that straight and intact... so what do you say go for M8 35cm or 60cm?
November 13, 20232 yr Author I have the drill however drilling these EUR pallets is not going to happen. There is simply too many nails and what it looks like at an angles as well. I would have to drill more than once to get the drill through what weakens the pallet in the process. Is there anything else I can use to tie them together except steel nail plates?
December 18, 20232 yr 6 hours ago, JohnBishop said: Hi Gents, Do I need birdsmouth cuts at this low angle? Nope, at very shallow rafter pitch a birdsmouth would do nothing except weaken the timber.
December 18, 20232 yr 9 hours ago, JohnBishop said: Hi Gents, Do I need birdsmouth cuts at this low angle? What are we looking at, the side of the shed with the roof set at a fall? Only thing I might do is face the "4x2s" or whatever they are with ply, brought flush to the face of the pallets. A birdsmouth I think stops the rafter slipping of the wall plate. Glue some wedges in there maybe then screw down with long screwd?
December 18, 20232 yr Author Hi Gents, Thanks for coming back to me. I have bought some truss clips but then I saw a video where a pro said to use hangers because apparently with winds 50+mph it can rip the roof open. On the other hand I want to leave that ridiculously long overhang in front of the shed. The Shed is 2.4m deep, timber is 3.6m long, 30cm overhang at the back so 90cm overhang in front. I admit that the location can be windy at times, it is exposed, the wind usually hits from west to east (there is a 5m tall hedge on the eastern side) so the slope raises from west to east. Or I could use a combination of both just to be safe or use jiffy hangers on every other joist. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-jiffy-hangers-50mm-x-275mm-10-pack/60964#product_additional_details_container Edited December 18, 20232 yr by JohnBishop
December 18, 20232 yr You could perhaps loop some builders band over the rafters and bring down the inside face of the pallets?
December 18, 20232 yr When I did the pallet shed with the nephew we fitted a 4x2 wall plate to the top of the pallet walls. From memory we in effect infilled the top.
December 24, 20232 yr Author What is the recommended overlap of the felt on a roof with that low angle? Is it like a 1.5 foot or something? I am going to use OB1 sealant to seal the layers of felt https://www.screwfix.com/p/ob1-multi-surface-sealant-adhesive-clear-290ml/434jf Edited December 24, 20232 yr by JohnBishop
December 26, 20232 yr Author According to IKO the overlap should be between 50-75mm but on Youtube Carpenter's Daughter felted a low slope roof and the overlap was more than a foot. They didn't use the adhesive but nails and the sealant/adhesive from a tube. To me using the adhesive from a can looks like a mess. I would rather go the nails + sealant/adhesive route. I went for this more expensive IKO Super Green Shed Felt. What do you think? Edited December 26, 20232 yr by JohnBishop
December 26, 20232 yr Stuck my shed felt down in 2019. 2021: 1st layer was sand felt, nailed on. Second green mineral layer was stuck down with trowelled on felt adhesive. As you can see there are no nails. No lifting etc.
December 26, 20232 yr 28 minutes ago, Onoff said: Stuck my shed felt down in 2019. 2021: 1st layer was sand felt, nailed on. Second green mineral layer was stuck down with trowelled on felt adhesive. As you can see there are no nails. No lifting etc. Is it finished yet ?
December 26, 20232 yr Author I think about roof gutter so I can collect rainwater. Are there any mounting brackets that you can screw into the roof joists rather than wall? My roof overhangs for well over 30cm.
December 26, 20232 yr 21 minutes ago, JohnBishop said: I think about roof gutter so I can collect rainwater. Are there any mounting brackets that you can screw into the roof joists rather than wall? My roof overhangs for well over 30cm. Just put some L brackets or bits of timber on the underside of the overhanging joists, right at the end. Screw or bolt gutter brackets to that.
December 31, 20232 yr Author Gents, considering that this shed is built from pallets that have gaps not plywood sheets do I need battens after I attach the breathable membrane? Edited December 31, 20232 yr by JohnBishop
December 31, 20232 yr 8 hours ago, JohnBishop said: Gents, considering that this shed is built from pallets that have gaps not plywood sheets do I need battens after I attach the breathable membrane? That's what we did. It'll make it easier to put your cladding on, regular fixing points etc. We used a combination of tile battens and some fresh timber milled to the same size from the chap who gave us the cladding (literally offcuts from milling the trees). Staple your membrane on. I've a couple of this sort though Parkside ones from Lidl: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374194279817? With a helper roll it out along a side, watch you keep the bottom level to whatever line you're finishing at. Staple top left. Then with the helper holding the roll staple bottom right. Stapling on the diagonal will keep it taught. Staple here and there. Cut the membrane and fold/staple into any window & door reveals. You'll want a horizontal batten top and bottom to try and prevent insect and vermin ingress. Then do vertical battens (between the top and bottom ones) and cladding. Got any pictures yet?
December 31, 20232 yr Author 5 hours ago, Onoff said: That's what we did. It'll make it easier to put your cladding on, regular fixing points etc. We used a combination of tile battens and some fresh timber milled to the same size from the chap who gave us the cladding (literally offcuts from milling the trees). Staple your membrane on. I've a couple of this sort though Parkside ones from Lidl: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374194279817? With a helper roll it out along a side, watch you keep the bottom level to whatever line you're finishing at. Staple top left. Then with the helper holding the roll staple bottom right. Stapling on the diagonal will keep it taught. Staple here and there. Cut the membrane and fold/staple into any window & door reveals. You'll want a horizontal batten top and bottom to try and prevent insect and vermin ingress. Then do vertical battens (between the top and bottom ones) and cladding. Got any pictures yet? Ok. Thank you. Did you stain your battens with anything? I have seen a man staining them with some green stuff and on the cuts he stained with some black stuff. Will add some more pictures soon.
January 1, 20242 yr 8 hours ago, JohnBishop said: Ok. Thank you. Did you stain your battens with anything? I have seen a man staining them with some green stuff and on the cuts he stained with some black stuff. Will add some more pictures soon. Yes the battens were painted with a dark brown wood preserver. The tile battens and the fresh cut ones. Get a couple of trestles or tarp on the ground and paint them all at once by pushing all the battens together. Paint one face of each, turn each one 90deg, push back together and repeat. I'm debating even painting the palets themselves if I do one.
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