What building regs apply to a wooden garage,?

[saveasteading]

Any thoughts on my concern of the slats not mating together tightly, vertically?   I resolved never to have t & g cladding boards longer then 3.6m, as it will reduce the problem, but doesn't remove it. In these garage the t  & g is structural though, so it might settle unevenly over time.  Or perhaps the weight with the roof on forces the timber into place. I wish I knew.

 

15 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Difficult to lay a slab with sloping sides

I think a skilled person could go round it with a float and feather the edges enough.  Tamped finish first, then floated smooth and sloping on the outside.

actually I would float to slightly inside the wall line.

You try it and report back please.

[joe90]

7 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

You try it and report back please.

Ha, yes I will, especially for the garage door as my current one does leak in heavy rain.

 

the T@G is duplicated as per pic below and like log builds the walls will shrink a little as the wood dries out, I think the corners will stop twisting . Any vertical timbers (door and window frame are  fitted with slots to accommodate settlement.

 

 

[saveasteading]

Those timbers above the sole plate are not treated at all. I am not happy about that.

 

A timber co MD told me that Britain is not like other countries, being constantly cold and damp, so never to specify Canadian Redwood. It is ok in a country with very cold winters when the bugs and moulds die. But here everything stays damp and rots. They even issued a note to say this to every architect and customer who asked for a quote. The same applies, but more so, to European pine. Can we rely on a painted on treatment? The exposed ends will surely need to be soaked in wood treatment or painted annually.

[joe90]

1 minute ago, saveasteading said:

Those timbers above the sole plate are not treated at all. I am not happy about that.

That is my reservation, other “stick build” types (that look more agricultural) can come treated but they are over twice the price. Yes special paint/treatment is sold in various colours (I hate painting) but I could consider creosote (the old fashioned carcegenic stuff 😱).

 

at my age it only has to last about 15 years till I am in my bath chair dribbling 🤣, masonry build with foundations difficult in my location and even more expensive and disruptive.

[SteamyTea]

1 minute ago, joe90 said:

15 years

That long?

 

In mathematics there is a whole field called Set Theory.

You seem to be after the set that includes buildings, wood, foundations, unpleasant weather, value for money, warm. 

I am sure a Venn Diagram can be drawn up.

[joe90]

2 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

That long?

Thanks a bunch mate 🖕

[joe90]

Perhaps I could set fire to it Japanese style ,    Shou Sugi Ban

a lot of exterior wood treatment is for rough sawn timber and planed timber is different, shiny surface that does not “suck” treatment.

Edited February 28, 2023 by joe90

[joe90]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272103568671?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQiA6fafBhC1ARIsAIJjL8l-jFSG51HVxQh3AIiWJdQrRvTPrSGE2t8IgfdmxbLxmKkg7CyDiuoaAis9EALw_wcB

 

Use for studding in damp conditions, or framing, or as a DPC at the foot of wood studding. The possibilities are endless, and this will never rot. Use it once and never think about it again. Maintenance free!

Edited February 28, 2023 by joe90

[saveasteading]

I like that plastic stud. Better and cheaper than masonry or concrete, easy to screw down and seal. Looks solid too, ie not the kind with voids through them. The reviews say they are not tong in bending but that will be fine for the shed base....just got to deal with the doors being higher.

[joe90]

7 hours ago, saveasteading said:

just got to deal with the doors being higher.

Only 25mm-50mm (depending on what you buy) and if the plastic is carried across the doorway no gap to the door and acts as a threshold to stop rain entering, most UPVC door frames have a plastic  threshold like that.

[joe90]

Bump, came across this on another thread regarding permitted development…….

 

I am looking at a log type garage from “quick garden” and thought I would look at the Tuin site mentioned by @PeterW . The Tuin site gives a guide on planning etc but I am not sure they are correct, quote…..If you’re within 2m, measure from the boundary to the 2m point, if you’re below 2.5m it’s officially a ‘permitted development’, even if your ridge height extends above 2.5m. 

I am not sure that’s correct, from the planning portal sectionE (garden buildings/garages etc) states…

 

” If any part of the building, container or enclosure is within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage of the house, then the height limit for the total development is restricted to 2.5 metres if it is to be permitted development.”

 

note particularly the “if within 2 meters of the boundary (which mine will be, but more than 1m ) then the 2.5m height limit is for the whole development”. 
 

anyone?

[Ajn]

On 28/02/2023 at 17:55, joe90 said:

my age it only has to last about 15 years till I am in my bath chair dribbling

That can happen any time.... for reasons you may not expect....

However we have one of the Dunster sheds/garden rooms we used as extra lounge space for the touring caravan during our five year restoration project. ( well for us and not the caravan)

We had a couple of advantages at this site. a) The six to eight inches of top soil gives way to a compact sand/gravel subsoil. b) We also had access to various bits of earth moving kit that we had bought as part of our diy renovation project. So we removed all the top soil and replaced it with six inches of road planings/scalpings. We gave it a good go over with the wacker plate and using a home made water level got it to within a couple of mm. Overall this provides excellent drainage.

It is a 5x6m shed. The bottom logs were specific and appear to have some sort of treatment which I suspect is skin deep. The build is easy for two or more people but two is a must. We added 50mm of insulation to the roof along with a thin layer of 6mm osb. Then the felt singles as provided in the kit. The door is a bit of messing to set up and the provided hinges are crap. We used 25mm insulation under the floor with T&G as provided over the top.

 

Electrics by myself were done in conduit on the outside all at the one level then through the log/plank to the steel socket box on the inside. Flexi conduit was used on the corners and for the verticals to the 3 way consumer unit on the outside under the eve.

Two mistakes were made nine double sockes was not enough and I had to change the vertical conduit from the light switch to a flexi one as the logs settled / shrunk nearly two inches in the first year. Now I would say there is an inch of movement over a year.

 

The incomming feed is by way of a plug in connection similar to those used on caravan sites and boats etc. This means that the power can be removed without doing anythin in the main building and the shed becomes an extension lead. Obviously isolators and trips etc are rated to the supply cable. Part P is not needed for an extension lead.

 

Having poked the bottom logs with a bradawl  and sounded them with a 1lb hammer there is no singn of any problem with these logs yet.  With a bit of care it should last 20yrs plus. If it does, that would be an all in cost of £342 per year for each of the twenty years.

 

So with perhaps some improvement in the doors they are not bad value and can be put up in a couple of weekends.

 

 

Edited May 1, 2023 by Ajn

[markocosic]

You'll get 30; 50; or more years of our a boggo basic wooden shed with 12 mm tongue and groove if it's kept dry.

 

Could you lift these up on a course or two of blocks; and get a sectional garage door that you can adjust the height of the horizontals on relative to the roof?

[joe90]

48 minutes ago, markocosic said:

You'll get 30; 50; or more years of our a boggo basic wooden shed with 12 mm tongue and groove if it's kept dry.

 

Could you lift these up on a course or two of blocks; and get a sectional garage door that you can adjust the height of the horizontals on relative to the roof?

The kit comes with treated battens for floor mounting, but I may replace these with plastic battens, I cannot go up anymore as have to stay under 2.5m, I am not using the standard opening wooden doors but installing a sectional up and over door.

[Temp]

I raised my out building on two courses of bricks but ran the cladding battens and cladding down over them to about 25mm above the gravel that surrounds the slab. 

[Big Jimbo]

Complete shite in my opinion. Slotted restraints inside swelled and didn't slide. Stuck this up about 3 months ago for a neighbour.

[Big Jimbo]

In my opinion a Ford Capri deserves better @joe90

[Big Jimbo]

@joe90 Do yourself a huge favour, and stick build a decent garage. Those log things are often sat outside for months or longer before you buy them. That thing is going to move up and down every year. You could knock up a stick One (Frame) in a couple of days. Don't T and G on the outside. The connection is just not deep enough. Just use a simple lap cladding outside, which will allow for a bit of seasonal movement.

[Gone West]

Is it worth stick building with dung boards.

 

https://www.moleonline.com/dung-walling-200mm-x-47mm-1055312

 

 

[saveasteading]

We are going with stick build. 

I went to examine the t and g kits, only to find that the show field had closed.

 

So I looked at how I would build a t and g, and wasn't comfortable for anything other than a small building. 

Then looked at stick built ....easy and stronger.

We are going with t and g boarding. I know that BigJimbo is correct, from expensive experience. But having used t and g with success 6 times and a problem once, I know it was a bad batch.

So let the boards sit for a week or 2 before fixing. Avoid any long lengths, and either stain before fitting, or wait a month for gaps to settle down

 

We have decided to build the roof the old fashioned way, with a joist at eaves level, then mid verticals and a tie, then the rafters. This uses more wood but is much easier to build diy, ie no ridge beam and no unsupported rafters to juggle with. It loses a bit of clear height.

It will be much slower, but stronger and won't warp.

The joists also provide a working platform and an attic.

 

Costs.?..don't know yet but I'd think similar with skilful buying and waste avoidance.

 

It will be under 30m2 GIA, so no building regs, but timbers, fixings etc  as if it was.

[joe90]

7 hours ago, Big Jimbo said:

Slotted restraints inside swelled and didn't

That’s an easy fix. Yes timber moves, you just have to work with it. I have read reviews for the one I want and with my past knowledge of working with timber don’t foresee any problems 🤞

[joe90]

Sit rep, I have ordered the garage kit and recycled plastic battens to replace the treated timber battens supplied with the kit to be fixed to the slab so they will never rot, just getting the form work built to lay the slab in (if I can ever get a builder to confirm they can lay it fir me 🤯).

[SteamyTea]

53 minutes ago, joe90 said:

plastic battens to replace the treated timber battens

Where did you get them from?

Been considering them for my replacement shed.

[joe90]

6 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Where did you get them from?

Been considering them for my replacement shed.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394339796610

i ageeed they could cut them In Half to reduce the shipping costs. I am going to lay them on a bed of silicone to stop moisture creeping under neath and at the joins as well. 👍

Edited June 14, 2023 by joe90

[SteamyTea]

13 minutes ago, joe90 said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394339796610

i ageeed they could cut them In Half to reduce the shipping costs. I am going to lay them on a bed of silicone to stop moisture creeping under neath and at the joins as well. 👍

Thanks.

I wonder how well PU adheres to it.

They look like they are the same material that the benches in the woods are made from.

May take a bit of timber and glue down later and do a test.