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What building regs apply to a wooden garage,?


joe90

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4 minutes ago, joe90 said:

I will be screwing it down to the slab just using the silicone as a gasket 🤞

Having used silicone to seal up the rim of spa baths, then had to go back and replace it, I am reluctant to rely on it in a hot and damp environment.

The silicone on the steam rooms sometimes only lasted weeks. That may have been free styrene off gassing.

I started to use a neoprene foam tape. That seemed to last and made for a much quicker install and dismantled, without damage, if needs be.

Edited by SteamyTea
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4 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Ah, I used that around my windows in my build, I may have some left (if I can find it 🤔).

It's good stuff, they make wetsuits out of it.

Though I found it does not have to smell of wee like a surfers wetsuit does.

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2 hours ago, joe90 said:

recycled plastic battens to replace the treated timber battens supplied

Great idea. Some of them are really strong yet take a wood screw.

 

I once specified concrete lintels as the bottom plate../ kerb..there were 4 storeys going on top though.

 

I'll ak our gang to work out rheir materials cost later.

Often you can buy a timber thing (pergola etc) cheaper than the timber. But these guys seriously wanted to build this as a stick build so the decision was made. Labour cost will be food and drink...lots of both.

 

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1 hour ago, SteamyTea said:

the same material that the benches in the woods are made from.

We bought a picnic table made of this. Very heavy.

Just make sure that loads are on the external areas...the middle is much looser ie don't recess bolts..

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Back in the woods, rather than give executive relief to woodland creatures I just tried to pull off the bit of ply.

I could not do it with my fingers.

So seems that Lumberjack gel PU glued it well, especially as I did no preparation in the faces.

Shall keep visiting over the years and see how it is getting on.

 

Resize_20230615_121637_7951.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Right, my timber garage kit has arrived 🥳, first thing I notice the ground bearers are at the bottom of the pile so I have to move the lot (about a Ton) to get to them and make a start and although every piece is numbered the instructions don’t use the numbers 🤷‍♂️.

IMG_0247.jpeg

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Found the numbered instructions (right at the bottom) I have started fixing the plastic battens to the concrete. Luckily being a retired ol fart I am not in a rush and will plod on, my mate is coming next week to help with upper parts, roof etc. these “logs” are really quite heavy, not your usual 15mm or 19mm cladding. My only concern was the head height inside but I am adding 40mm with the plastic battens and the treated floor battens, 100mm x 50mm was supposed to go flat but I am putting them on edge so will gain nearly 100mm. Pics to follow.

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9 hours ago, saveasteading said:

They are like double thickness t &g.   Have you a strategy if any curve in the vertical plane, preventing fully mating with the adjacent logs?

No not yet, they do seem quite straight so far and want to get it built quickly to avoid “bending”. I can always use long screws to hold any offending “logs”n down to the ones underneath. When I off loaded the roofing, felt membrane then felt shingles I was amazed how heavy they were so that should hold it all down well. 

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Sit rep, plastic battens down and fixed, treated timber fixed in place and first two row of logs on, weather forecast is heavy rain and high winds so all covered with a huge tarp, I just hope it stays there 🤞

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You will be treating the wood with something won't you?

 

If it were me, I would paint both sides of the mating t&g profiles before slotting them together to protect from water that WILL get in the gap

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40 minutes ago, ProDave said:

You will be treating the wood with something won't you?

Oh yes, inside and out.

 

40 minutes ago, ProDave said:

it were me, I would paint both sides of the mating t&g profiles before slotting them together to protect from water that WILL get in the gap

The tongue and groove (doubles) are tapered so they effectively form  a mortise taper, swell with humidity and seal themselves. The difference with this build is the whole building shrinks and expands vertically with time/humidity. Any vertical timbers (door frames and window frames) are only fixed at the bottom and have a 50mm gap at the top (with cover plates) to allow the building to move. Most sheds etc built with tongue and groove end up with gaps due to shrinkage but this won’t (shouldn’t).    Yes I know timber has a limited life, but so do I 😳

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  • 2 weeks later...
10 hours ago, ProDave said:

Optical illusion or is that a very low door built for sports cars only?

Ha, trying to keep it all dry during the recent rains I placed the roof trusses on to keep the tarp up. 

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