Onoff Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 2 minutes ago, PeterW said: Just watch the adhesive on the led strips as it's pretty useless on some when it gets warm. Pound shop do 4 bottles of cyano and that's what I use to stick them onto the trims as otherwise they start to come off. Yep, found that to varying degrees with a couple of makes. Last pic where I'm mocking it up, I stuck the LED strip cut off to the ali extrusion cut off. Even though I cleaned the ali with Multisolve the strip didn't stick that well. I can see it might fall against the diffuser over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 34 minutes ago, Onoff said: Dunno, I'll wait till the trim arrives. Ordered 10 lengths just over £30 plus some external corners. Tempted to just glue a length of MT2 under there and be done with it! Half mulling whether I could run a length of 20mm round pvc through the table saw and use half as a 10mm radius capping with no joint! Sod's Law it'd be a different white! is D-LINE a half round? or is it more a 1/3rd.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 8 hours ago, Onoff said: Yep, found that to varying degrees with a couple of makes. Last pic where I'm mocking it up, I stuck the LED strip cut off to the ali extrusion cut off. Even though I cleaned the ali with Multisolve the strip didn't stick that well. I can see it might fall against the diffuser over time. Use Meths after the multisolve. M-S seems to leave a little residue sometimes . Oh, and I also use mitre bond on the back of the LED strips too, just a dot every 25mm or so. The adhesive strip / backing holds it in place long enough for you to smooth it down and activate the glue with the spray activator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 A bit of modification to bring the conduit forward! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Trés bien Rodney. Youll thank me this time next year . Probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Onoff: "I've ordered the tile trim!" MrsOnoff: "I thought we we're going to buy it as we needed it?" (Where TF she got this idea from?) Onoff: "No it's cheaper this way and better quality than the sheds!" MrsOnoff: "What colour did you get, white?" Onoff: "Yes, like you wanted!" MrsOnoff: "Well "we" looked at the other colours and didn't like them!" Onoff: "No, I wanted metal but you wanted white!" MrsOnoff: "Do they do grey?" Onoff: "Yes, BUT I'VE ORDERED WHITE!" Go figure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 With a bit of ply about 8mm thick to simulate the tile and some Blu Tack, it would appear it'll all line up: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I think you are being a little unfair on Mrs onOff, I think a metallic grey could look quite nice......... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 6 hours ago, Construction Channel said: I think you are being a little unfair on Mrs onOff, I think a metallic grey could look quite nice......... SO DO I! Pretty sure when she sees the white she wont like it. She can't visualise stuff in her head is the problem, has to "see it". Had a half row yesterday when I said that at least the upstairs dormer gets nice and warm when the rads are on. (Despite being bloody freezing when not). Straight away it was "You're always saying it needs redoing as there's not enough insulation!". The concept of 4x2 walls with hit and miss insulation, heat loss / retention & draughts.....I started to try and explain but gave up. I might try cold bridging and see if we get a Scanners moment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I'd still recommend sticking with plastic, regardless of colour. There's a lot of complex cuts / angles etc around the room and doing them in metal would even test my patience / skill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 14 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: There's a lot of complex cuts / angles etc around the room and doing them in metal would even test my patience / skill. @Nickfromwales is there a neat way of doing the top meets corner angles with this stuff then where you get 3 pieces coming together ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Yup. Use square or radius ( quadrant ) for the horizontal runs, but ONLY use square for the vertical. Where two horizontal radius trims form a corner you get what I call "the dagger", the point at the corner. In a metal trim this is a flesh eater. If you come vertically with the 3rd radius trim you cannot form that corner ( unless you use a pre-formed 3-way junction piece from the same trim supplier ) without it looking like a pigs breakfast. However, if you come vertically with a square then it forms a 90o and marries up perfectly to the dagger point, making it a neat, safe junction. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 49 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Yup. Use square or radius ( quadrant ) for the horizontal runs, but ONLY use square for the vertical. Where two horizontal radius trims form a corner you get what I call "the dagger", the point at the corner. In a metal trim this is a flesh eater. If you come vertically with the 3rd radius trim you cannot form that corner ( unless you use a pre-formed 3-way junction piece from the same trim supplier ) without it looking like a pigs breakfast. However, if you come vertically with a square then it forms a 90o and marries up perfectly to the dagger point, making it a neat, safe junction. And there endeth the sermon from his lordship on tiling ...!! Cheque is in the post ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 57 minutes ago, PeterW said: And there endeth the sermon from his lordship on tiling ...!! Cheque is in the post ... Thinking of this on a wall scroll in the bathroom: "Our Guru, who art in Wales, Hallowed be thy name. Tile Kingdom for some, But thy will be done, In porcelein (cost permitting). Give us today our daily tips. And forgive us our cock ups, ..... Work in progress, something else that won't get finished... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: I'd still recommend sticking with plastic, regardless of colour. There's a lot of complex cuts / angles etc around the room and doing them in metal would even test my patience / skill. I'd give metal a go. I'm an apprenticed mechanical & production engineer and was taught (sometimes beaten) to hacksaw to within 20 thou. Emery cloth was a banned and everything had to be draw filed. I love a bit of precision filing even now. My worry with some of those metal or metal effect trims is if it's a coating that would flake off. What do you cut the trims with btw? Those fancy shears, chop saw, mitre block? Inward sloping mitre, cutting trim / tiling this'll be fun: Edited January 8, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Just a little more procrastination and the bath can go in and possibly stay in: Maybe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 The 18mm ply "deck" that the bath sits on is a little low at the internal corner. These are the measurements, slipping in corner packs and then making sure the bath is level in all planes. I'm planning to glue and pin a 12mm lip all round the edge of the hole in the deck so the tiles have something to butt up against and also to act as an upstand against water ingress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 WTF are these bits of softwood for sticking down under one end of the bath? The nearest ones square to everything but the far one is as pi$$ed as a fart. Only on one end of the bath too. None down the sides: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Are they not for something to fit a side panel to? Which you don't need to do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 1 minute ago, Tennentslager said: Are they not for something to fit a side panel to? Which you don't need to do... Yup. And they're always not worth a w**k unless you've spent big bucks on a brand name bath. Multitool them off with real care if they're in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 13 hours ago, Onoff said: The 18mm ply "deck" that the bath sits on is a little low at the internal corner. These are the measurements, slipping in corner packs and then making sure the bath is level in all planes. I'm planning to glue and pin a 12mm lip all round the edge of the hole in the deck so the tiles have something to butt up against and also to act as an upstand against water ingress. I'd prob tank the top of the bath boxing and upstand. With a good seal fortified with clear CT1 that would be belt n 2 braces. You'll be buying a tanking kit anyhoo, so just buy a large kit and coat the ply top with liquid membrane. SBR may be another option, but I don't use that typically for tiling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) 20 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I'd prob tank the top of the bath boxing and upstand. With a good seal fortified with clear CT1 that would be belt n 2 braces. You'll be buying a tanking kit anyhoo, so just buy a large kit and coat the ply top with liquid membrane. SBR may be another option, but I don't use that typically for tiling. Cheers. Point me at a make would you! SBR, I've got a gallon, what, you mean PAINT it on the ply and tile over that? Seen this, any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquaseal-Waterproof-Tanking-Membrane-Wet-Room-Bathroom-Liquid-Form-5L-/111982706227?hash=item1a12b07e33:g:IaoAAOSw3mpXI28P Thanks again. Edited January 9, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, Tennentslager said: Are they not for something to fit a side panel to? Which you don't need to do... Just to make clear I'm meaning the down pointing 2"x2"s not the horizontal 2"x1" which I guess is for rigidity. I did think that it was to attach an end panel but then why not down both sides and the other end too and why so pi$$ed. The multi tool will be coming out! Got the missus painting the concrete under the bath this morning a nice slate grey. Left her all the gear so no excuses! Edited January 10, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) If you want a job doing... Hopefully on the second coat she'll get the edges round the ply recess! TP's finest floor paint, still the onion's doing it's job (NOT a myth btw): So these are the mosaics going in the recess, has 5mm pseudo grout gaps, so the real grout gaps will also need to be 5mm: Dimension wise this is the section; a 400mm high tile with 432mm between ply faces I've not shown the tile at the top of the recess shaded for clarity. It works out at a 5mm grout gap to and bottom of the tile. The 3mm is the allowance / space for adhesive between the tile and plywood. A couple of questions: 1) This is marine ply, do I prime it with anything first? Leave to dry or tile whilst the "primer" (if any) is still wet/tacky? 2) Adhesive; proper tile adhesive or Sika or silicon? Bearing in mind this is PLY. Just beads of +3mm and press the tile in? 3) I've a great big tile cutter (water bath etc) - seems overkill and messy /slow for what will br repetitive, straight cuts. Any cheapo tile cutters recommended? Now then, the Genesis 10mm trim's arrived. Not sure how easy it'll be to bond together, well at least perfectly neatly. A 1mm packer makes things worse IMO: I can make the joint line look neat enough I think by temporarily taping together the quadrants though this might spring the flags apart a bit..... Wish me luck, 'cos I never dun no tilin! Edited January 11, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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