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Afixing doorframe/architrave


jamiehamy

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I bonded all our oak skirtings and architraves, with no screws of nails anywhere.  I used mitre bond for the architrave frames, as suggested above, then bonded them all in place using the water based grip adhesive from Screwfix.  Far, far better than the solvent based stuff, as it doesn't skin over and dry anywhere near as quickly.  I've not had a problem with any of the 13 doors or any of the skirting - once it's bonded on it stays there.  This is the grip adhesive I used: http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-11663102-solvent-free-grab-adhesive-white-310ml-12-pack/61428

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Interesting that the No Nonsense solvent free adhesive appears to be made by "No Nonsense". Love that the emergency telephone number is "office hours only". Where I'm going with this is that all the No Nonsense FOAMS seem to be made by Soudal according to the Material Safety Data Sheets! Makes me wonder why I keep buying Soudal?

 

(Maybe because Soudal's number is 24/7! :) )

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Sorry I seem a bit late to this party but we generally. 

 

Screw linings and pin mouldings. 

 

I cant see how nailing a lining would be a good idea at all. 

 

Mitre bond the architrave and external skirting corners. 

 

Only level the hinge leg then set the other leg with a tape and sight it through to make sure they are true to each other. 

 

Have fun but it's worth spending the time on the linings instead of having to shoot the doors in. 

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Useful threads, thanks to everyone who has contributed.

 

If I can just hijack it a bit- I'm starting building my partitions this week and need to consider the door linings.

I'm going with oak veneer doors, probably a daft question here but I take it I should really be using oak on the door linings, stops, arcs, skirts, as well? Or, for the lining at least, can I get away with softwood suitably stained/treated?

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Yes perhaps if I go softwood it's a case of painting them white.

Actually having browsed through some of the catalogs I see plenty of oak doors in white liners/arcs and it doesn't look too shabby at all. I would prefer oak throughout but simply have not budgeted enough for that.

Some of the suppliers offer oak veneered MDF- any experience of this? I can't help thinking of the cheap foil veneered stuff you get in kitchens etc but if it is real wood veneer presumably it's a bit better than that.

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11 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

The real wood veneered MDF is quite good TBH. Can be finished however you like. 

Thanks. Haven't chased up any prices on it yet- how might it compare to softwood (c.£30/door) and solid oak (c.£100/door).

 

The doors will be veneered themselves so it might not be a bad match. I'm a wee bit reluctant to spend a fortune on the linings in particular when so much of them is hidden much of the time.

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1 hour ago, Construction Channel said:

Personally I am not a huge fan of oak veneered MDF. It's incredibly easy to damage (at least the stuff we used was). 

If I wasn't machining all my mouldings and linings I would go for softwood linings and pre primed MDF mouldings then paint the lot white. 

 

Yes, it is still just MDF at the end of the day, but as far as the external angles etc go, they'll both damage easily, just oak would have to be colour match filled etc whereas white just wants touching up. 

Its a renter at the end of the day so +1 to Ed, white everything and oak / veneered  doors for the look. 

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@Crofter, as with my question to @jamiehamy, are you doing full or planted stops? if using full stops then i rebate standards to a width greater than the thickness of the door to ensure stops cover join and to a thickness to allow the list to show and the facings to cover that joint. this allows facings, standards, door and stops to be in the same material.

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On 24 April 2017 at 20:15, Simplysimon said:

@Crofter, as with my question to @jamiehamy, are you doing full or planted stops? if using full stops then i rebate standards to a width greater than the thickness of the door to ensure stops cover join and to a thickness to allow the list to show and the facings to cover that joint. this allows facings, standards, door and stops to be in the same material.

Erm, there's a bunch of stuff there that I don't really understand!

My knowledge of door linings is that you have the liner and then you fix the stop onto it. Stop has to be movable to some degree so you can get everything lined up properly.

Anything more than that is going to need further explanation, sorry...

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linings, a thinner version of standards to which a door is hung. normally linings in stud work (modern) and more likely to move. full door stops go from door, when closed, to facings on other side of wall, far nicer looking. planted stop normally approx. 30-40mm in width. margin or list, the distance the facing/architrave is kept back from the edge of the standards/lining

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8 hours ago, Simplysimon said:

linings, a thinner version of standards to which a door is hung. normally linings in stud work (modern) and more likely to move. full door stops go from door, when closed, to facings on other side of wall, far nicer looking. planted stop normally approx. 30-40mm in width. margin or list, the distance the facing/architrave is kept back from the edge of the standards/lining

 

So with a full stop do you bring the architrave out to the stop? I don't think I've ever seen that detail. 

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1 minute ago, Crofter said:

Does that affect what thickness doors you can have?

Yes, the lining has to match the door thickness. Personally I prefer planted on stops so I can set the stops exactly to the door after it's hung.

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11 hours ago, joe90 said:

The lining and stop are one and the same thing. The lining is thicker and the rebate for the door is machined into it. 

 

'fraid not, the lining is flat as normal, the door is hung as normal and then the stop is scribed, if necessary, to the door, especially to old doors. the stop is then dressed flush with the lining and the facings/architrave fitted as normal with a margin/list.

the problem with rebated linings is that the rebate is normally the same depth as the door, this means that when hanging the door there is no clearance on the hinging side. as per below

9 hours ago, joe90 said:

Yes, the lining has to match the door thickness. Personally I prefer planted on stops so I can set the stops exactly to the door after it's hung.

 

the beauty of a full stop is that when painted there is no joint line liable to cracking to be seen when the door is closed as the facing/architrave covers it.

edit - this also means you can, a mentioned previously, rebate the linings to slightly more than the thickness of the door, insert the matching door material to make the lining look to be solid in that material.

Edited by Simplysimon
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