September 5, 20215 yr 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: No, it’s not. It’s a recommendation for extending the amount of time an installed deck can resist the elements. Specifically aimed at TF’s where the deck boards MUST be installed before the second lift can go on. As above. To be fair Nick, I think Adsibob is referring to the the bit about painting over boards once down. That's proper overkill. Not sure if you were on the same page there, but if so, fair enough.
September 5, 20215 yr Author 45 minutes ago, Dave Jones said: a litre does way more than 3 boards. If you read the instructions with the egger protect it tells you exactly what,how much and where to use it. Any non-cowboy chippy would know it also. Instructions say a litre does 6 x 2400 by 600 boards.
September 5, 20215 yr 54 minutes ago, Dave Jones said: egger protect it tells you exactly what, how much and where to use it. The egger page I found was for a litre and said 3 boards including joist interface, and 5 boards without. Suppliers seldom tell you to use less of their product I suppose. Maybe it was bigger boards? 1 bottle will cover 3 sheets if used on the sheet and joists. If not used on joists, it will cover 5.5 sheets. will get 1 pack and try it out. Edited September 5, 20215 yr by saveasteading correction
September 5, 20215 yr Author 35 minutes ago, saveasteading said: The egger page I found was for a litre and said 3 boards including joist interface, and 5 boards without. Suppliers seldom tell you to use less of their product I suppose. Maybe it was bigger boards? 1 bottle will cover 3 sheets if used on the sheet and joists. If not used on joists, it will cover 5.5 sheets. will get 1 pack and try it out. Instructions I’m reading say: ”Adhesive Coverage - Bonding the board to the joist and within the tongue & groove joint will typically require 1 bottle of EGGER Joint & Joist Adhesive per 6 boards (2400 mm × 600 mm)"
September 5, 20215 yr OK, not too bad then. There seem to be 2 different egger products. both specs are vague and don't mention foaming or gap filling. Neither does the Caberfloor one. How do we recognise the foaming/filling material?
September 5, 20215 yr 2 hours ago, Dave Jones said: without a proper vapour barrier, like Alutrix, it wont be airtight by a long shot. Well Dave, you are wrong, passed the airtightness test (can’t remember the figure but it was fairly good). In Fact we measured with and without the loft hatch (with rubber seal) closed and made very little difference. ( @SteamyTea can vouch for this as he was here!!!) This subject has done the rounds on another forum . There is a difference between “sealed” and “breathable” I am not a fan of membranes and sticky tape. Edited September 5, 20215 yr by joe90
September 5, 20215 yr very large difference between passing an irrelevant air test and a vapour barrier. Better not to mislead others into thinking glue is in anyway a substitute to doing the job properly.
September 5, 20215 yr 3 minutes ago, Dave Jones said: an irrelevant air test Since when is an air test irrelevant. 4 minutes ago, Dave Jones said: Better not to mislead others Again (like ASHP,s ) I am simply stating what I have done and works for me.
September 5, 20215 yr 1 hour ago, Dave Jones said: more like 10-12 in reality with liberal application. Always end up with spare. That sounds about right, think I got through about 5 bottles doing 60 m2 last summer, so yes about 9 boards or 12 m2 per litre.
September 5, 20215 yr Author I guess what I want to know is whether anybody has laid chipboard without using the foaming glue, just using regular D4, and without gluing all the joins, just gluing half the joins, and gluing to the joists, and then screwing down plenty of floor tite screws. Has anybody done that and then years later developed squeaking? Because my builder points out that he has laid about 10 floor tite screws per board and that is way more than what Egger specify. I think they just require four nails per board, not even screws let alone floor tite screws. Edited September 5, 20215 yr by Adsibob
September 5, 20215 yr Never glued a chipboard floor, always full thread screws and boards pulled down tight to joists before fixing.
September 5, 20215 yr Author 45 minutes ago, markc said: Never glued a chipboard floor, always full thread screws and boards pulled down tight to joists before fixing. Do you mean timber floor boards?
September 6, 20215 yr 16 hours ago, Makeitstop said: To be fair Nick, I think Adsibob is referring to the the bit about painting over boards once down. That's proper overkill. Not sure if you were on the same page there, but if so, fair enough. Yes, the over painting is to stop standing rainwater from getting into the joints and, trust me, they swell up soon enough. It’s only when people put a straight edge down do they realise how much swelling has occurred. Prevention will always be better than cure
September 6, 20215 yr 20 hours ago, Adsibob said: Well it's horses for courses. If you need moisture resistance because the site is still exposed, then that's useful. But if not, it's unnecessary. Luckily we have been waterproof for a while now. Agreed. Pointless if the deck is not exposed to the elements.
September 6, 20215 yr 14 hours ago, Adsibob said: Do you mean timber floor boards? Chipboard. If the joists are shallow and you need the whole structure to act as a panel then gluing will be required. Admittedly I have never build a new house, only commercial with all residential work being refurbs.
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