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Posted
3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

No, it’s not. It’s a recommendation for extending the amount of time an installed deck can resist the elements. Specifically aimed at TF’s where the deck boards MUST be installed before the second lift can go on. 
 

 

As above. 

 

To be fair Nick, I think Adsibob is referring to the the bit about painting over boards once down. That's proper overkill.

 

Not sure if you were on the same page there, but if so, fair enough.

Posted
45 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

 

a litre does way more than 3 boards.  If you read the instructions with the egger protect it tells you exactly what,how much and where to use it. Any non-cowboy chippy would know it also.

Instructions say a litre does 6 x 2400 by 600 boards.

Posted (edited)
54 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

egger protect it tells you exactly what, how much and where to use it.

 

The egger page I found was for a litre and said 3 boards including joist interface, and 5 boards without.

Suppliers seldom tell you to use less of their product I suppose.

Maybe it was bigger boards?

 

1 bottle will cover 3 sheets if used on the sheet and joists. If not used on joists, it will cover 5.5 sheets.

 

will get 1 pack and try it out.

Edited by saveasteading
correction
Posted
35 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

 

The egger page I found was for a litre and said 3 boards including joist interface, and 5 boards without.

Suppliers seldom tell you to use less of their product I suppose.

Maybe it was bigger boards?

 

1 bottle will cover 3 sheets if used on the sheet and joists. If not used on joists, it will cover 5.5 sheets.

 

will get 1 pack and try it out.

Instructions I’m reading say:

 

Adhesive Coverage - Bonding the board to the joist and within the tongue & groove joint will typically require 1 bottle of EGGER Joint & Joist Adhesive per 6 boards (2400 mm × 600 mm)"

Posted

OK, not too bad then. There seem to be 2 different egger products. both specs are vague and don't mention foaming or gap filling. Neither does the Caberfloor one.

How do we recognise the foaming/filling material?

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Dave Jones said:

 

without a proper vapour barrier, like Alutrix,  it wont be airtight by a long shot.

Well Dave,  you are wrong, passed the airtightness test (can’t remember the figure but it was fairly good). In Fact we measured with and without the loft hatch (with rubber seal) closed and made very little difference. ( @SteamyTea can vouch for this as he was here!!!) This subject has done the rounds on another forum . There is a difference between “sealed” and “breathable”

 

I am not a fan of membranes and sticky tape. 

Edited by joe90
Posted

very large difference between passing an irrelevant air test and a vapour barrier. Better not to mislead others into thinking glue is in anyway a substitute to doing the job properly.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

an irrelevant air test

Since when is an air test irrelevant. 
 

4 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

Better not to mislead others

Again (like ASHP,s ) I am simply stating what I have done and works for me.

Posted
1 hour ago, Dave Jones said:

more like 10-12 in reality with liberal application. Always end up with spare.

 

 

That sounds about right, think I got through about 5 bottles doing 60 m2 last summer, so yes about 9 boards or 12 m2 per litre.

Posted (edited)

I guess what I want to know is whether anybody has laid chipboard without using the foaming glue, just using regular D4, and without gluing all the joins, just gluing half the joins, and gluing to the joists, and then screwing down plenty of floor tite screws. Has anybody done that and then years later developed squeaking? Because my builder points out that he has laid about 10 floor tite screws per board and that is way more than what Egger specify. I think they just require four nails per board, not even screws let alone floor tite screws.

Edited by Adsibob
Posted
45 minutes ago, markc said:

Never glued a chipboard floor, always full thread screws and boards pulled down tight to joists before fixing.

Do you mean timber floor boards?

Posted
16 hours ago, Makeitstop said:

 

To be fair Nick, I think Adsibob is referring to the the bit about painting over boards once down. That's proper overkill.

 

Not sure if you were on the same page there, but if so, fair enough.

Yes, the over painting is to stop standing rainwater from getting into the joints and, trust me, they swell up soon enough. It’s only when people put a straight edge down do they realise how much swelling has occurred. 
Prevention will always be better than cure ;) 

Posted
20 hours ago, Adsibob said:

Well it's horses for courses. If you need moisture resistance because the site is still exposed, then that's useful. But if not, it's unnecessary. Luckily we have been waterproof for a while now.

Agreed. Pointless if the deck is not exposed to the elements. 

Posted
14 hours ago, Adsibob said:

Do you mean timber floor boards?

Chipboard. If the joists are shallow and you need the whole structure to act as a panel then gluing will be required.

Admittedly I have never build a new house, only commercial with all residential work being refurbs.

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