Partitions: Timbers studs Vs Metal C studs

[MortarThePoint]

I've typically limited my thoughts to timber stud partitions, but am warming to metal C studs. The timber option has felt like the 'better' option and metal done for speed in the commercial setting, but I expect that's outdated thinking.

 

Strength is a major driver and I've felt timber has that one.

 

A major win for Metal is no warping, twisting etc.

 

Timber feels like it's the better choice should you think you may want wall mounted shelves  etc. How do you mount skirting board to metal studs?

[Conor]

We're going with metal studs... Because nobody is doing timber anymore here. Much better sound insulation. Also means the dead straight walls mean you can get away with tape and jointing the boards rather then needing to skim.

 

For light things like skirting, self tapping screws will do the job. For mounting anything heavy, the guys say to fit 3x2s inside the channels and some noggins.

 

For my plant room and the kitchen, I'm screwing sheets of OSB before they plasterboard.

 

Edited June 16, 2021 by Conor

[MortarThePoint]

9 minutes ago, Conor said:

For my plant room and the kitchen, I'm screwing sheets of OSB before they plasterboard.

 

I want to do the same on some walls. Got a price for 11mm OSB3 of £25 per sheet though ?.

 

You're supposed to keep plasterboard off the ground and I suppose the same applies to the OSB3 but feels like some support at the bottom would be good.

[Pocster]

I’ve done both because I’m a twat .

Once you screw osb to either it’s solid .

Timber ‘ feels ‘ better but metal no warps …

[PeterW]

36 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

How do you mount skirting board to metal studs?

Glue … 

I’d also hazard that metal is getting close to the price of timber now too. 

 

[MortarThePoint]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Glue … 

I’d also hazard that metal is getting close to the price of timber now too. 

 

 

I think you're right. I don't have enough partitions for it to make enough of a difference.

[Faz]

Done 88 flats in C and I sections - the contractors f*cked them all up over the years.  97mm planed CLS stud from then on - solid as a rock and no issues.  Will never use Metsec again because every installer will not put it in right.  All idiots.

 

The remedial btw when it is all screwed is to brace between partitions in steel - good luck with the dream being sold of independent free standing walls.  All a joke.

 

Done right - it sounds fine - good luck with getting it done right though. 

 

As you can see - this still gives me the hump 5 years after sorting the last Metsec partition!  Doing my house in block btw with a little bit of stud (CLS) upstairs.

[willbish]

49 minutes ago, Conor said:

Much better sound insulation

Ditto. That was my reason for going all metal. 70mm track, 50mm staggered I studs. 15mm soundbloc both sides. 

 

Ply lined for landing cupboards and walk in wardrobes. 

[MortarThePoint]

31 minutes ago, Faz said:

Done 88 flats in C and I sections - the contractors f*cked them all up over the years.  97mm planed CLS stud from then on - solid as a rock and no issues.  Will never use Metsec again because every installer will not put it in right.  All idiots.

 

The remedial btw when it is all screwed is to brace between partitions in steel - good luck with the dream being sold of independent free standing walls.  All a joke.

 

Done right - it sounds fine - good luck with getting it done right though. 

 

As you can see - this still gives me the hump 5 years after sorting the last Metsec partition!  Doing my house in block btw with a little bit of stud (CLS) upstairs.

 

Mine would mostly have blockwork walls at one or both ends. Did the contractors screw up installing them or doing some other works years later. I can see metal studs would be less easily adapted down the line.

Edited June 16, 2021 by MortarThePoint

[nod]

There’s no comparison 

Ive been fitting mf for over 35 years 

Straighter far better acoustics More versatile Three or four times quicker 

[MortarThePoint]

8 hours ago, nod said:

Straighter far better acoustics More versatile Three or four times quicker

 

Could you elaborate on the more versatile bit please. Naively, it seems to me that it's harder to hang things off unless planned in to the construction of the partition (e.g. pattress).

 

Does it create a wall that feels as solid as timber studs or does that more come down to the plasterboard used?

[markc]

Done right, metal stud walls are far superior to timber .... i emphasize Done Right!

If you know where stuff will be hung later then add some timber noggings either into the frame of tacked to the back of the PB. or use self tappers straight into the studs (easier to find than wood).

Badly done walls are thrown up without fixing the studs properly (rely on plasterboard) and they rattle!

 

[nod]

2 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

 

Could you elaborate on the more versatile bit please. Naively, it seems to me that it's harder to hang things off unless planned in to the construction of the partition (e.g. pattress).

 

Does it create a wall that feels as solid as timber studs or does that more come down to the plasterboard used?

You would put the same amount of pattrress in timber as metal 

for rads kitchen cupboards etc

We use Abito boards on May of our jobs 

So no need to use pattress Screw directly to the the boards 

 

The versatility comes in that mf come in a range of sizes and lengths Every length is true No sorting Quick to load also 

[Mr Punter]

The metal I studs are a fair bit stronger than the C studs, if you want a freestanding wall.  We used it to line a tanked basement.

 

The metal frame guys can put the stuff up very quickly. I / we can't.

[MortarThePoint]

5 hours ago, markc said:

Done right, metal stud walls are far superior to timber .... i emphasize Done Right!

If you know where stuff will be hung later then add some timber noggings either into the frame of tacked to the back of the PB. or use self tappers straight into the studs (easier to find than wood).

Badly done walls are thrown up without fixing the studs properly (rely on plasterboard) and they rattle!

 

 

Are they doing something like skipping a step of screwing the vertical stud to the bottom and top u-channels then? If so, I'm sure I can cope with that necessity ?

[MortarThePoint]

4 hours ago, nod said:

We use Abito boards on May of our jobs 

So no need to use pattress Screw directly to the the boards 

 

Nice: https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-habito?tab0=0

 

These plasterboards are really strong enough to hang kitchen cabinets on? Perhaps not with all of Grandma's fine china in it!

[markc]

1 minute ago, MortarThePoint said:

 

Are they doing something like skipping a step of screwing the vertical stud to the bottom and top u-channels then? If so, I'm sure I can cope with that necessity ?

Yes! makes for a very quick install on job-and-knock or price/metres jobs.

[MortarThePoint]

1 minute ago, markc said:

Yes! makes for a very quick install on job-and-knock or price/metres jobs.

 

Cheeky bodgers!

[MortarThePoint]

In the installation video the Habito is touching the ground at the bottom edge. Aren't you supposed to raise it up slightly or does that not apply to Habito?

[markc]

Dont know anything specific regarding Habito but the space at the bottom depends on location. Ground floor, concrete, kitchen etc. where water could be present then generally lift clear. Office space with raised floors etc. generally have the PB touching the floor .... makes for an easy install again

[MortarThePoint]

I don't know why they are drawing the distinction, but I'd be ale to skim Habito boards on metal studs surely:

 

[nod]

1 hour ago, markc said:

Yes! makes for a very quick install on job-and-knock or price/metres jobs

We have a housing site where the builder offers Habito boards as an extra 

All the rad kitchen cupboards and tv brackets are fitted to them without pattress 

Only drawback is you can’t use collated screws or Dot and Dab with them 

[Mr Punter]

38 minutes ago, nod said:

We have a housing site where the builder offers Habito boards as an extra 

All the rad kitchen cupboards and tv brackets are fitted to them without pattress 

Only drawback is you can’t use collated screws or Dot and Dab with them 

 

Do you charge a higher rate to fit the Habito?

 

We used Fermacell on some flats a while ago.  Never again, but the Habito looks good.

[MortarThePoint]

2 hours ago, nod said:

We have a housing site where the builder offers Habito boards as an extra 

All the rad kitchen cupboards and tv brackets are fitted to them without pattress 

Only drawback is you can’t use collated screws or Dot and Dab with them 

 

I had planned to use a sheet of OSB3 behind the plasterboard, but think Habito probably negates the need.

[nod]

Both are good 

Most commercial bathrooms we do have a layer of ply for the first layer 

The beauty with mf Especially I stud is you can cut all your pattresses first and fasten them as you build the wall