larry Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 34 minutes ago, Onoff said: @Vijay, yep belt and braces. Gets pretty steamy in there do I went mrpb on the walls and ceiling. I did make my own niches up. Took some figuring out. Just studwork lined with Aquapanel then tanked and tiled. Around the part sunken bath it's mrpb and marine ply, again tanked. Good to see somebody else using the Sikaflex EBT stuff!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 @larry some helpful links there, especially the wickes board as I only saw the ones in their bathroom catalogue May use them for walls and floor? @Onoff think I'll make up my own then, I have to make up a frame for that particular wall anyway, so just a little more planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 On 26/04/2021 at 17:39, Vijay said: Before I carry on, can I check opinions on the joists. They are 7x2 sitting on a 3x2 ledger plate, which seems to sit on metal supports. My concern is how the joists are cut to sit on the plate. What do you think? Looks solid to me, been there for a long enough time without issue presumably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 That's true, but it's only cos I have everything up and out that I wanted to ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Vijay said: That's true, but it's only cos I have everything up and out that I wanted to ask You'll be gluing and screwing a new deck board onto these though? That will help enormously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You'll be gluing and screwing a new deck board onto these though? That will help enormously. Yes mate. I had wondered about gluing but definitely screwed (and happy to D4 glue it down too). Gonna use 18mm ply with a tile board https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/21008-bathroom-floor-buildup/?tab=comments#comment-333514 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 11 minutes ago, Vijay said: Yes mate. I had wondered about gluing but definitely screwed (and happy to D4 glue it down too). Gonna use 18mm ply with a tile board https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/21008-bathroom-floor-buildup/?tab=comments#comment-333514 I'd go 22mm P5, glued and screwed, and then a layer of 6mm ply glued and screwed ( PVA combed out with a 3mm notch mosiac trowel and screws ( 4.0x25mm ) with the 6mm ply laid onto the PVA when wet ) and stagger the boards to keep the joints away from each other. Bombproof, and what I've done in every 1st floor wetroom install I've ever done, eg with a wooden / joisted floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I'd go 22mm P5, glued and screwed, and then a layer of 6mm ply glued and screwed ( PVA combed out with a 3mm notch mosiac trowel and screws ( 4.0x25mm ) with the 6mm ply laid onto the PVA when wet ) and stagger the boards to keep the joints away from each other. Bombproof, and what I've done in every 1st floor wetroom install I've ever done, eg with a wooden / joisted floor. How come the 6m ply would go on top of the moisture resistant board? I'd have assumed the most moisture resistant part would be on top? More than happy to go with 25mm P5 board, just looked and it would work out the same as ply anyway What about 22mm P5 https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-P5-Tongue-and-Groove-Chipboard-Flooring---22-x-600-x-2400mm/p/164536 with 10mm backer board https://www.wickes.co.uk/STS-Professional-Tile-Backer-Board-1200-x-600-x-10mm/p/101131? with 3mm adhesive between the 2, that would give me my 35mm I need to build up Edited May 17, 2021 by Vijay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 Gonna get the flooring down but just wanted to know the best way to lay the 22mm P5 boards. They are 600 x 2400 and the joists are 400 centres. Does it make any difference as they are T&G?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 My next job is to look at the shower wall which will include a concealed shower valve and pipework run in it. It's a solid 9" party wall which I've put a thin bonding coat onto. I haven't chosen the valve yet but I'm assuming I really need to batten out the wall which I'm thinking of 50mm with a 10mm board over it. Does that sound right? How much could I realistically chase out of the wall if I needed to? Cheers Vijay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) Some concealed valves go pretty deep in the wall. If you have space in the room I would pick a valve and work out how much depth it needs. Then build a stud/false wall the right depth from 2x4, do all the plumbing and mounting of the valve then clad with 12mm Hardi backerboard. PS: Valve normally come with instructions that specify the range of mounting depths that they can accommodate. Remember to allow for tiling and adhesive. If you get it wrong some makes sell extension kits. Edited June 21, 2021 by Temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 2 minutes ago, Temp said: Some concealed valves go pretty deep in the wall. If you have space in the room I would pick a valve and work out how much depth it needs. Then build a stud/false wall the right depth from 2x4, do all the plumbing and mounting of the valve then clad with 12mm Hardi backerboard. I looked at a few and they seem to be around 75-95mm (back of valve to back of wall plate). I'm struggling to find a suitable shower valve at the moment which is why I need to get on with stuff around it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 The dimensions of mine: Tbh it's decision time. Either go surface mount thermostatic bar mixer or bring the wall out a bit with battens. You don't have to have the shower controls in the shower. You can have them to one side like mine. Dead handy as you can turn on and set with just your hand underneath rather than stepping in and having to get wet. I'd be real careful channelling into the 9" party wall. Last thing you want is complaints if you get any vibrations from the valve through the wall when it's running... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) Whatever you do you want to fix the valve really well imo. Bit of a double edged sword but if an old 'un slips they might fall against whatever is sticking out the wall. Conversely "it" might serve as something for them to grab onto if they fall. You might also think about building in some strong points like well fixed studs, to attach grab rails to. Even a fold down shower seat. Edited June 21, 2021 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 26 minutes ago, Onoff said: The dimensions of mine: Tbh it's decision time. Either go surface mount thermostatic bar mixer or bring the wall out a bit with battens. You don't have to have the shower controls in the shower. You can have them to one side like mine. Dead handy as you can turn on and set with just your hand underneath rather than stepping in and having to get wet. I'd be real careful channelling into the 9" party wall. Last thing you want is complaints if you get any vibrations from the valve through the wall when it's running... That kinda goes with what I've seen and would be great if the valve I choose for them is nearer the 72mm the shower area is 1800 x 850 and I was planning on having the controls in the middle, so they can be accessed from the 600 entrance and also within the shower both easily. Definitely not gonna channel anything major into the wall, I only asked in case I needed to nick anything for the valve - and that would me small, maybe 25mm max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 27 minutes ago, Onoff said: Whatever you do you want to fix the valve really well imo. Bit of a double edged sword but if an old 'un slips they might fall against whatever is sticking out the wall. Conversely "it" might serve as something for them to grab onto if they fall. You might also think about building in some strong points like well fixed studs, to attach grab rails to. Even a fold down shower seat. Good point, it would probably be the thing they'd grab. I intend to add supports for any grab rails in the future. Stupidly they don't want any rails now or even a seat. I will probably insist on at least 2 grab rail and will add the supports for a seat so it will be easy to install if they decide they want one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 Any reason I couldn't dot and dab a backer board? It would sure be easier than trying to batten out an extremely uneven wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 No reason why not, if you use plasterboard adhesive you then need to mechanically fix through the dabs, as it doesn't stick to backer boards I guess tile adhesive would work. I think Delta board give fairly comprehensive instructions on all methods of fixing, search out the 7Mb version of their instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 40 minutes ago, Vijay said: Any reason I couldn't dot and dab a backer board? It would sure be easier than trying to batten out an extremely uneven wall? @nod!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 12 minutes ago, Onoff said: @nod!!!!! No reason why you can’t but I would put a few knock ins in Or plug and screw the dabs once set Belt and braces to help carry the weight of the tiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted June 22, 2021 Author Share Posted June 22, 2021 @nod knock ins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 Looking to buy these "waterproof" boards and getting contradicting advice. Some say I need to tank them and others say just seal between the boards and over any fixings. I have no issue in tanking the whole thing but what is the purpose of these "waterproof" boards if you still have to tank them? Is it just if the tanking fails you still have another barrier? Had a thought today while buying the timber to batten out the uneven walls. Is there any reason I couldn't use some bonding coat between the timber and wall and then once dry, fix it with a screw and wall plug? So the bonding drys to act as the packer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Newport Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 6 minutes ago, Vijay said: I have no issue in tanking the whole thing but what is the purpose of these "waterproof" boards if you still have to tank them? Is it just if the tanking fails you still have another barrier? I think it depends on the board. I used SDS construction boards because I had them left over, and they recommended tanking them since they are considered porous even though they hold their structure when wet. Whereas other boards are made of more magic stuff that is actually waterproof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 yeah I think you've described the 2 types of backer board that I've looked at but I am being told by some to tank the "waterproof" one which is why I'm confused Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Newport Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 Who told you to tank the waterproof one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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