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Fixing a mirror to plasterboard wall

canalsiderenovation
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canalsiderenovation Advanced Member

canalsiderenovation

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We have a large mirror that weighs about 9kg which we want to fix onto a wall which is plasterboard.

 

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In our last house we had it on a plasterboard wall and I know we used plugs that were metal and our walls were so thin you could have literally put your hand through it. Just been rummaging through some out bits and bobs and found these. Do you think they will be sufficient?

 

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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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1 hour ago, canalsiderenovation said:

 

Pilot where exactly? In typical fashion SWMBO wants it on only one of two stud walls in the whole bungalow....

 

You might want to do a bit of a drawing with the existing wall area, the outline of the two mirrors and where the fixings will go. So on one wall you'll have four "X's". That's where you drill your holes for whatever fixings.

 

GRIPITS are another option. 

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Bitpipe Advanced Member

Bitpipe

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I've had this issue in a few places in our house where we didn't make provision for hanging heavy items (i.e. extra noggins behind the plasterboard).

 

I originally used some nifty plasterboard fixings that were round discs with steel lugs that rotated out behind them but they seem to be discontinued now.

 

Was putting up an Ikea floating shelf for the kids room last month and used some of the other types. As soon as the shelf was loaded with books, the fixings pulled straight out.

 

I resorted to using a hole cutter to take out a section of PB for each fixing location, cutting a length of timber (wide and thin) and putting it inside the hole, glueing the external face of the noggin to the internal face of the plasterboard. When glue has gone off, the original disc of plasterboard was glued back to the face of the noggin and the circular cut was filled. Quick sand, lick of paint and it's invisible.  

 

I then just use a decent screw to fix back to the new noggin. Works a treat.

 

 

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joe90 Advanced Member

joe90

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After using nearly all types on offer over the years I still say the hollow wall anchors I posted above are the best, gives you four metal lugs that act as a rivet to the plasterboard that gives a permanent threaded fixing.

 

gives an example of how they work https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/the-only-drywall-anchor-you-should-ever-use/

Edited by joe90
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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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21 minutes ago, joe90 said:

After using nearly all types on offer over the years I still say the hollow wall anchors I posted above are the best, gives you four metal lugs that act as a rivet to the plasterboard that gives a permanent threaded fixing.

 

gives an example of how they work https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/the-only-drywall-anchor-you-should-ever-use/

 

The threaded insert I think is preferable to the curly wurly type where the coarse screw that comes with it has to bite into the fixing and cut its own thread. OK maybe the first time it's used but subsequent unscrewing can undo the fixing too and the pb around it crumbles. I as I say very carefully drill a pilot for them and try not to break out at the back (hence the gentle drilling). I've also "reinforced" the drilled hole with a good slug of PVA on the curly wurly and around the drilled hole. Your "butterfly" type go some way to mitigating a hole that's broken out at the back of the pb.

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Nickfromwales Advanced Member

Nickfromwales

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Do NOT use those scabby corkscrew ones. Great back in the day when nothing else was available, but now pretty shit tbh. 
 

Edit to add;

 

I’d fortify this with two big blobs of clear CT1 100mm in from each of the bottom corners to stop this flapping about when wiping down. Fear is of it lifting off those and crash-landing on the basin / tiled floor.

Edited by Nickfromwales
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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Click and collect today. 
 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-25-x-14mm-8-pack/682GK?tc=ET2&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnD8I-BBfC7hs_wBI21bKybD1MPEd4UTd3C-6aaCs3zAID7D1cfg6CQRoC5zwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Don't forget the 25mm flat wood bit. (Though I'd use a 25mm holesaw).

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Nickfromwales Advanced Member

Nickfromwales

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Just now, MikeGrahamT21 said:

Don't forget this is only for a mirror, since @canalsiderenovation has already got those fixings and they will work just fine, may as well use them surely?

Absolutely not. They work themselves loose, and the mirror will be moved a bit during each wipe down / polish. It’s a bathroom, not a corridor, so cleaning will be much more frequent / vigorous ;)  

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ProDave Advanced Member

ProDave

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3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Absolutely not. They work themselves loose, and the mirror will be moved a bit during each wipe down / polish. It’s a bathroom, not a corridor, so cleaning will be much more frequent / vigorous ;)  

I make a 5mm pilot hole.  It is a lot cleaner than letting the built in cutter make it's own hole.  They then screw in nicely.  Half way in,  a good smear of your preferred "sticks like...." or similar adhesive before driving them home,  will ensure they don't accidentally unscrew.

 

Some of the self cutting screws can be very tight the first time, I have known in old knackered pb for it to strip the fitting out when cutting the thread, so now I drive the screw in to cut it's thread for the first time before I screw the fitting into the wall.

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joe90 Advanced Member

joe90

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I agree with @Nickfromwales about the self tapping ones, glueing into plasterboard has never worked for me, when I have used them I use wood screws instead of the self tappers supplied as they have turned themselves out breaking the plasterboard then you have a a lager hole to deal with.

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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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26 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Nothing sticks to cut gypsum in the core of PB :/ It’s like trying to glue something to talcum powder. 
No sale. 

 

If I cut out for a dry lining box I use a multi tool now, a massive step up from the old Stanley or pad saw imo. I then paint the exposed edge with pva and let it dry. Appreciate in a commercial setting there's no time to do that but it really helps keep it together. 

 

I tried those 1-gang and 2-gang box cutter "blades" from CPC for use in pb. Absolute crap. Whatever one I used the other stayed in the packet. 

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MikeGrahamT21 Advanced Member

MikeGrahamT21

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2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Absolutely not. They work themselves loose, and the mirror will be moved a bit during each wipe down / polish. It’s a bathroom, not a corridor, so cleaning will be much more frequent / vigorous ;)  

Who said anything about a bathroom?

 

I still stand by the fact these will be fine, if you are concerned you can always put a bead of glue around the last thread before driving it home.

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Nickfromwales Advanced Member

Nickfromwales

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18 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

Who said anything about a bathroom?

Ah, yes. Apologies. In bathroom mode atm. 
 

Still disagree with trying to glue ANYTHING into a cut hole in PB. It’s only the paper face, and the paper face alone that you can get any tiny bit of purchase with, so no, and no again. 
If it’s a true stud wall and there is a cavity, then the collapsable “toggle” fixings reign supreme.  

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