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Posted

Hello, I am running in the electrics for a kitchen in an extension. I will then have a professional wire it up to the consumer unit and test. I was hoping someone could tell me what type of circuits I need to use in terms of Ring or Radial? I'm also a bit unsure on the cable thickness and amps. Image below with the following circuits I think I need and my 'guess' on what I need. I did just take a look in the existing consumer unit which was installed last year and I only appear to have 4 spaces left. I guess I will cross that bridge later.

 

Dishwasher - 20A Radial 4mm t+e

Sockets - 20A Radial 4mm t+e

Spotlights - 6A lighting 1mm t+e

Fridge - 15A 1.5mm t+e

Laundry/Washer - 20A Radial 4mm t+e

Oven and Hob - 32A Ring 10mm t+e

Under cabinet lights - 6A 1mm t+e

 

Thanks very much.

 

ELECTRICS.thumb.png.0aaf7a58c315463aacd8fcbd28e1a589.png

 

Posted

One RING final 32A 2.5mm serving all the kitchen sockets.  Double pole isolator above worktop to feed spured socket to each of Dishwasher, Tumble dryer, Fridge freezer and boiler.

 

One lighting circuit 6A 1mm to feed all ceiling and under unit lights.

 

Radial 32A 6mm to hob via above worktop isolator

 

Radial 32A 6mm to oven via above worktop isolator.

 

Check with your chosen electrician that he really is happy for you to pull the cables for him to connect, he will no doubt want to agree cable routing with him and tell you the rules.

 

Don't forget if a new water or gas service entered the extension to include a 10mm earth bonding cable.

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Posted

I would run a radial for the fridge and freezer so that only the appliance/circuit itself can trip that circuit

minimising grief in my life..

 

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Posted

If you have a DP isolator above the worktop then that has a switch built in. No point in having the socket it feeds switched.

 

So unswitched sockets below worktop fed by 20A DP switch above.

 

 

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Posted

Depends on your OCD but i HATE isolators all over the place . Kitchens, bathrooms, utility etc etc

 

i had the sparky wire every single one in the plant room. Added a bit of cost but a much cleaner look.

 

 

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Posted

My OCD works the opposite way to @Dave Jones. I need to know the isolator is close to the appliance in question. After all, how many of us have had situations like asking our significant other to "turn off the water, QUICKLY" to be asked "Which way does the tap turn?". Still, the world would be extremely weird if we were all the same.

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Posted
17 minutes ago, dnb said:

My OCD works the opposite way to @Dave Jones. I need to know the isolator is close to the appliance in question. After all, how many of us have had situations like asking our significant other to "turn off the water, QUICKLY" to be asked "Which way does the tap turn?". Still, the world would be extremely weird if we were all the same.

Mark those occasions on the calendar and get a reality check. The only thing you need to know is where the CU is and which circuit to switch off eg “kitchen ring” if the ? hits the fan ?

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Posted
7 hours ago, Dave Jones said:

Depends on your OCD but i HATE isolators all over the place . Kitchens, bathrooms, utility etc etc

 

i had the sparky wire every single one in the plant room. Added a bit of cost but a much cleaner look.

 

 

 

I was go to suggest an accessible grid plate, remote to the appliances but as the op said he's running the cables himself didn't. Unless he likes running wires.....

 

Personally I think they look very swish. 

Posted
7 hours ago, dnb said:

My OCD works the opposite way to @Dave Jones. I need to know the isolator is close to the appliance in question. After all, how many of us have had situations like asking our significant other to "turn off the water, QUICKLY" to be asked "Which way does the tap turn?". Still, the world would be extremely weird if we were all the same.

All of them being in one place and labelled is certainly faster and easier ?

Posted

Do make sure you speak to the Sparky. The kitchen is covered by Part P in England, and that includes where the wires are run, and how they are protected. If the sparky aint got a clue how you have run them, he might be reluctant to sign it off.

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Posted
13 hours ago, TonyT said:

I would run a radial for the fridge and freezer so that only the appliance/circuit itself can trip that circuit

minimising grief in my life..

 

What spec would I need that to be in terms of cable? Thanks.

Posted
30 minutes ago, carlosdeanos said:

What spec would I need that to be in terms of cable? Thanks.

 

It's dependant on load, the length of the cable and installation conditions e.g run through / under insulation. Something the sparks usually specs/advises on. Probably 2.5mm2 T&E. You are taking on the responsibility of the designer and could come unstuck to put it bluntly.

 

A book well worth getting is this:

 

https://www.wiringregulations.net/18th-edition-wiring-regulations/building-regulations-part-p?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2LX53Iyg7QIVZIBQBh0gtQxnEAAYASAAEgLDDvD_BwE

 

(The green book, you can download Part P for free).

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Posted

+1 for @Onoff's recommendation : takes a lot of getting-in to (for me anyway) But is very helpful.

 

It doesn't explain that you need to buy several diameters of earthing sleeve, though , and why you can't buy less than a mile of it at any one time. Or why the Knipex pliers you bought and that were borrowed by the electrician were to be found - one month after it was fitted - under the new fridge-freezer. I now have two pairs. ?

 

I'm going to use my leftover earthing sleeve to add a bit of zip to  the grandchildren's straws........

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Posted
12 hours ago, dnb said:

My OCD works the opposite way to @Dave Jones. I need to know the isolator is close to the appliance in question. After all, how many of us have had situations like asking our significant other to "turn off the water, QUICKLY" to be asked "Which way does the tap turn?". Still, the world would be extremely weird if we were all the same.

 

I have Surestops (water offswitch like a blue light switch) in my house. 

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