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Vertical open joint batten cladding


GaryM

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35mm gaps - bats will like that as well. Personally I’m blocking up all possible entry points with steel insect mesh it’s pretty cheap. Really don’t want mice living in my walls , their urine carries lots of nasty things. Bugs eat wood. 

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1 hour ago, gc100 said:

35mm gaps - bats will like that as well. Personally I’m blocking up all possible entry points with steel insect mesh it’s pretty cheap. Really don’t want mice living in my walls , their urine carries lots of nasty things. Bugs eat wood. 

For my outbuilding I will will risk it without mesh, the cladding is easy to access and to clean the back if I need to. However I will see how attractive it is to the wrong type of wildlife and if required use a mesh when I clad my house.

 

As a matter of interest what size mesh did you use?

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33 minutes ago, gc100 said:

 

Wow 4mm is big. Insects would get in with that I would think -very surprising.

 

I personally went with https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/soffit-mesh.html

 

As the mesh will easily be seen (35mm gaps) I don't really want to use stainless, I had seen this https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/pet-proof-insect-screen.html 

As it is black it will blend into the background

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  • 11 months later...

Hello All,

Little late to this topic, but have read through everyones' posts! - 


I recently bought the open rainscreen cladding (RW014) Thermopine from Russwood. I was initially going to buy Abodo timber closed profile but due the Suez Canal hold up and (tbh) the price I decided to opt for the treated Pine.

The joiners had put on the foil back Tyvek on the sheathing thinking it was going to be a closed face, however I told them I had bought the open rainscreen therefore were concerned about seeing the foil from through the gap. So last week I bought black Vent 3 Breather membrane and took my time to neatly cover/strap up a secondary membrane over the Tyvek.

 

This wasn't their only concern.They were unhappy about the open rainscreen, concerned about water ingress through the 8mm gap and essentially eventual damage to the kit, also bugs etc. 

 

I had spoken to Russwood and Trada about their thoughts on the open ventilated cladding and if there would be a major issue to which both were happy with, but I find myself either over thinking/ worried that I will regret this in a year or so. 

 

I guess I could fork out for other cladding and try sell what I have, try to create a closed face(board on board), or keep it and be content. 

 

Can anyone give any thoughts ?
 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 08/07/2021 at 09:25, damienloch said:

Hello All,

Little late to this topic, but have read through everyones' posts! - 


I recently bought the open rainscreen cladding (RW014) Thermopine from Russwood. I was initially going to buy Abodo timber closed profile but due the Suez Canal hold up and (tbh) the price I decided to opt for the treated Pine.

The joiners had put on the foil back Tyvek on the sheathing thinking it was going to be a closed face, however I told them I had bought the open rainscreen therefore were concerned about seeing the foil from through the gap. So last week I bought black Vent 3 Breather membrane and took my time to neatly cover/strap up a secondary membrane over the Tyvek.

 

This wasn't their only concern.They were unhappy about the open rainscreen, concerned about water ingress through the 8mm gap and essentially eventual damage to the kit, also bugs etc. 

 

I had spoken to Russwood and Trada about their thoughts on the open ventilated cladding and if there would be a major issue to which both were happy with, but I find myself either over thinking/ worried that I will regret this in a year or so. 

 

I guess I could fork out for other cladding and try sell what I have, try to create a closed face(board on board), or keep it and be content. 

 

Can anyone give any thoughts ?
 

 

 

I'm not sure  I can be too much help as my open joint cladding is going on concrete blocks. I have 25mm open joints and after discussing it with building control we are not using a insect mesh, joints are large so we can jet wash behind if need be. however we are doing UV resistant membrane, Powerlon UV 160 SA Black Facade Membrane. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

problem i have found doing horizonal batten fencing, anything under 10mm gap and when the wood moves it closes the gap too much and draws the eye to it. Next one I do im going to use 13mm gap as I think it draws the eye less the larger the gap?

 

Could allways look at thermowood for cladding as this doesnt move.

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8 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

problem i have found doing horizonal batten fencing, anything under 10mm gap and when the wood moves it closes the gap too much and draws the eye to it. Next one I do im going to use 13mm gap as I think it draws the eye less the larger the gap?

+1, I find wood fencing shrinks more than expands, yes 13mm (1/2 inch in old money ) looks better and any variation less obvious ?.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

That is a great finish.  It looks very like your original image.  Did you join the ends where the vertical meets the soffit? 

 

A couple of points:  I heard that with some of the ventilated cladding insects are not an issue as they don't like the constant breeze from the chimney effect.

 

We have used Tyvek UV Facade membrane in the past and it seems very strong and does not look vulnerable to insect damage.

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@GaryM looks great!

 

3 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

That is a great finish.  It looks very like your original image.  Did you join the ends where the vertical meets the soffit? 

 

A couple of points:  I heard that with some of the ventilated cladding insects are not an issue as they don't like the constant breeze from the chimney effect.

 

We have used Tyvek UV Facade membrane in the past and it seems very strong and does not look vulnerable to insect damage.

 

we were originally planning to do as @GaryM did and had the black Tyvek UV Facade membrane put on so we didn't see the usual silver through the open cladding but after much deliberation and the thought of painting over 1km of battens black so they wouldn't be visible behind the charred timber cladding we decided to simply go for a tongue-and-groove type shadow gap profile like this.

1300977336_Screenshot2021-11-25at18_05_10.thumb.png.715ccece129f253f1a4004738f734991.png

 

that way we didn't have to worry about a load of insect mesh as well as all the other stuff! 

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19 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

That is a great finish.  It looks very like your original image.  Did you join the ends where the vertical meets the soffit? 

 

A couple of points:  I heard that with some of the ventilated cladding insects are not an issue as they don't like the constant breeze from the chimney effect.

 

We have used Tyvek UV Facade membrane in the past and it seems very strong and does not look vulnerable to insect damage.

Thanks for the comment.

 

We put horizontal battens close to the top and bottom to help reduce any warping, the bottom one really helps clean up the look.

 

We used a UV membrane by powerlon designed for open joint cladding

 

 

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16 hours ago, Thorfun said:

@GaryM looks great!

 

 

we were originally planning to do as @GaryM did and had the black Tyvek UV Facade membrane put on so we didn't see the usual silver through the open cladding but after much deliberation and the thought of painting over 1km of battens black so they wouldn't be visible behind the charred timber cladding we decided to simply go for a tongue-and-groove type shadow gap profile like this.

1300977336_Screenshot2021-11-25at18_05_10.thumb.png.715ccece129f253f1a4004738f734991.png

 

that way we didn't have to worry about a load of insect mesh as well as all the other stuff! 

I thought of using the shadow gap cladding, it can look good, but I just loved the look of the battens.

 

We did discuss the insect mesh with the building inspector and it was decided we didn't need it.

 

I wouldn't want to paint over 1km of timber, I think we ( ha, l) just did the vertical and cross battens around a mere 400m :-).

 

It took some time, but pleased with the results, now to see how well it lasts

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi @Thorfun

 

This shadow gap cladding looks interesting, who is the supplier?

 

Can you get this kind of cladding which has extra grooves in it so that it looks like narrower pieces of cladding?

 

Looking at issues with black membrane, insect screen, black battens etc this seems to help out with many issues.

 

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1 hour ago, AliG said:

Hi @Thorfun

 

This shadow gap cladding looks interesting, who is the supplier?

 

Can you get this kind of cladding which has extra grooves in it so that it looks like narrower pieces of cladding?

 

Looking at issues with black membrane, insect screen, black battens etc this seems to help out with many issues.

 

even though I haven't ordered our cladding yet I have had quotes and believe that my chosen supplier will be Permachar (https://permachar.co.uk/product/charred-timber-cladding-deep-char/). I'll be looking to order early in the new year.

 

But the shadow gap profile is pretty standard with most timber cladding suppliers tbh so if you have a cladding supplier of choice then they'll probably do it.

 

I'm also sure you can get the profiles with extra grooves but I don't think Permachar do that. but there are many other suppliers that might!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 26/11/2021 at 16:16, Dave Jones said:

looks really good, shame about the render though. A nice brick with a plinth would have looked stunning.

Cheers mate the render cost more than the cladding :(

Edited by GaryM
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