Chainsaw

[nod]

It has been discussed 

Possibly Peter John?

 

Are the chainsaw sharpeners any good The yellow plastic type with a stone that fit on the end of a saw 

Seem to be spending more time sharpening these days 

[ProDave]

6 minutes ago, nod said:

It has been discussed 

Possibly Peter John?

 

Are the chainsaw sharpeners any good The yellow plastic type with a stone that fit on the end of a saw 

Seem to be spending more time sharpening these days 

I have just got one.  They do seem to work.  Always before I have sharpened tooth by tooth with a file attacking the inside of each tooth.  These work by grinding off a bit of the outside of the teeth and do indeed seem to work.

 

Note they expect your bar to have two holes in the end of it. Mine only had one, so I had to drill a second hole.

[nod]

Nice one Dave 

Thanks for that I will get one ordered 

[Iceverge]

 

Maybe I'm late to the party but I've bought 2 of these for different saws. Even I seem to be able to get a respectable edge. 

 

Pferd is the brand but you can also get a Stihl branded one. 

[PeterW]

47 minutes ago, nod said:

It has been discussed 

Possibly Peter John?

 

Are the chainsaw sharpeners any good The yellow plastic type with a stone that fit on the end of a saw 

Seem to be spending more time sharpening these days 

 

They are crap unless you buy the full matching bar and chain with the clamp.

 

The eBay ones are plain dangerous !!!

 

40 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Note they expect your bar to have two holes in the end of it. Mine only had one, so I had to drill a second hole.

 

Drilling bars is not something I would do - they are not designed to be drilled..! Should be hardened steel.

 

The only reason the Oregon PowerSharp system works is they redesigned the chain chisel shape and it has a top dressed blade, not a curved blade. It is a totally different beast, and using one on a normal chain usually results in a lot of sparks and not a lot else.

[Russell griffiths]

There is a particular easy method to avoid having to sharpen your saw. 

Stop blunting it. 

This is easy to say, but really it is easy to do. 

Dont cut old shitty wood. 

If sombody offers you a load of old floorboards that you can cut for starter sticks, say no, tell them to take it away and burn it themselves. 

 

Dont cut the floor. 

If you are cutting logs get a large log to use as a saw bench, cut on top of that not the floor. 

 

Dont cut the dirt, floor 

if cutting down an old stump, bend your knees so you use the saw parallel to the ground, look at the tip and don’t let it contact the dirt. 

You should be able to cut clean timber for 8-10 hours straight without needing to sharpen. 

 

[Sandybay]

If you cut your chainsaw file in half,

It's easy to sharpen your chain by putting the file in a battery drill just be sure to maintain the correct angle on the chain teeth. 

[nod]

33 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

There is a particular easy method to avoid having to sharpen your saw. 

Stop blunting it. 

This is easy to say, but really it is easy to do. 

Dont cut old shitty wood. 

If sombody offers you a load of old floorboards that you can cut for starter sticks, say no, tell them to take it away and burn it themselves. 

 

Dont cut the floor. 

If you are cutting logs get a large log to use as a saw bench, cut on top of that not the floor. 

 

Dont cut the dirt, floor 

if cutting down an old stump, bend your knees so you use the saw parallel to the ground, look at the tip and don’t let it contact the dirt. 

You should be able to cut clean timber for 8-10 hours straight without needing to sharpen. 

 

It’s the catching the dirt 

I’ve another 20 trees to cut 

The land owner said bit late asking since you cut more than that when you bought the plot

Without asking 

So cut the bloody things yourself 

He has a point 

 

[scottishjohn]

I bought an oregon elctric one with the slf sharpening set -up -

 

fine for small work and no grit in trees

-ivy is a bugger for picking up stone ,and in my case its granite 

after going through  3 chains --wore them out

I opted buy a properr stihl 211 ce chainsaw --

good kit and started with the carbide chain £40 - 

lasted much longer than normal chain - downside -you need diamond blade to sharpen them 

so went the other way and bought cheapest chains I could at £7.30 each  replace when dull instead of 15 -16 for a good make 

So they cut great 

then the scots man in me thought why not sharpen these

so 12 files from same place for £10

and i now give them a wee sharpen at home and take 2 with me every day -soon as it dulls -just swop 

doing it that way it only about 5 strokes per tooth to get back to shazor sharp 

carry on using dull chain and it will take 20 strokes to  sharpen it

so back the first question --would i go back to chain saw sharpening gadget 

NO-just a few rubs every day and it will cut so quick you dont, have to lean on it 

 

but as you have found--keep out of the dirt -why cut so low ?

If you not going to pull stumps -then get a concrete saw with cardbide blade and use that on stump to take them to the ground --dirt won,t blunt a concrete saw

 i used that on some roots going across my road in the tarmac

 

Edited June 14, 2020 by scottishjohn

[scottishjohn]

2 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

The only reason the Oregon PowerSharp system works is they redesigned the chain chisel shape and it has a top dressed blade, not a curved blade. It is a totally different beast, and using one on a normal chain usually results in a lot of sparks and not a lot else.

yes do not compare oregoen power hsarp set -up with the add on sharpeniign stone 

as @PeterW totally different type 

the downside of the oregon one is you cannot sharpen it very often before you run out of tetth to sharpen -finefor odd jobs and dead handy being battery-fuel to carry about and no messing about starting  --but not for serious tree felling  really ,.even though i felled quite a few 24"+ trees with mine 

 i would add perfect for you if you are scared of chainsaws -it will stop electronically before it ever gets chance to kick --then just press trigger again

good for a beginner to tree cutting 

Edited June 14, 2020 by scottishjohn

[Ian]

Best thing I’ve bought for sharpening chainsaw blades was this electric one from Clarke

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00719HR0Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

[nod]

I’ve just cut Two 5 mtre tree down and cut them into wood burning size off one sharpen

as John points out the ivy is the main culprit 

 

still a few to go 

[scottishjohn]

wait till the ivy is as big asthe trees you show  LOL

[PeterW]

17 minutes ago, Ian said:

Best thing I’ve bought for sharpening chainsaw blades was this electric one from Clarke

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00719HR0Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

I have the Portek version of that from Arbortech and I can redo a chain in about 15 minutes. Its also useful as I make modified ripping chains so I can alter it to a 5 degree angle rather than 30 degree. Only thing to remember is they either need to be bench or vice mounted - mine is on a 70mm ally angle offcut that just clamps into my vice. If I am sharpening outdoors then its an Oregon file and a bar clamp hammered into a piece of timber...!

[joe90]

My neighbour is a tree surgeon and like @scottishjohn he says as soon as it’s a little dull, a couple of strokes on each tooth and it’s as good as new again.