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grid switch in kitchen controlling utility room appliances


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Can anyone advise if it is acceptable to have a grid switch in the kitchen that is used to isolate the washing machine and tumble drier in the adjacent utility room.  The grid switch is approx. 300mm from the utility room door.

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Do you consider the switching in another room to be local and could you isolate it quickly?

 

Btw, you don't want to be in a room where the isolation is if the exit is in the room where the equipment is.

 

 

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Most people want it the other way, the isolation out of the kitchen to save clutter so more likely to have the isolation in the utility room not the kitchen?

 

For big appliances I like the isolation to be truly local.  But our Fridge Freezer has it's isolation backing onto the kitchen which has ended up at the back of a shelving unit in the hall.

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As ProDave says we are having a grid switch in the pantry to keep the kitchen area uncluttered. It also means we are not worried about matching the switches - they will be Hager elsewhere, but the Scolmore grid is a lot cheaper!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 07/06/2020 at 12:50, JFDIY said:

I'm considering a small consumer unit in a kitchen cupboard, so I can wire everything direct to without isolation switches, then size breakers to suit appliances 


Just remember that most breakers are not double pole - you really should be isolating both live and neutral. 

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  • 9 months later...
On 03/07/2020 at 19:34, PeterW said:


Just remember that most breakers are not double pole - you really should be isolating both live and neutral. 

I'm going to order a "make your own switch" grid (like this) with a bunch of double pole switches like these:

image.thumb.png.a51d4eac46e0eaad2fd96d937b347c4e.png


But my question is: how many appliances should I do this for. Have I understood correctly that the big stuff like the laundry machines, oven and induction hob needs a double pole isolation switch for safety, but the rest is more "optional". What are the advantages of having a double pole isolation switch for each appliance?

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6 hours ago, Adsibob said:

I'm going to order a "make your own switch" grid (like this) with a bunch of double pole switches like these:

image.thumb.png.a51d4eac46e0eaad2fd96d937b347c4e.png


But my question is: how many appliances should I do this for. Have I understood correctly that the big stuff like the laundry machines, oven and induction hob needs a double pole isolation switch for safety, but the rest is more "optional". What are the advantages of having a double pole isolation switch for each appliance?


You can get them pre-engraved and are much easier than guessing what is what. Unlikely you’ll get one that takes the 40A an induction hob takes - these are mostly 20A at best. 

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9 hours ago, Adsibob said:

I'm going to order a "make your own switch" grid (like this) with a bunch of double pole switches like these:

image.thumb.png.a51d4eac46e0eaad2fd96d937b347c4e.png


But my question is: how many appliances should I do this for. Have I understood correctly that the big stuff like the laundry machines, oven and induction hob needs a double pole isolation switch for safety, but the rest is more "optional". What are the advantages of having a double pole isolation switch for each appliance?

The double pole isolation gives you the benefit of the appliances goes faulty and takes out the MCB/RCBO, you can isolate the equipment and carry on regardless until a repair is sorted.

 

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Click Mini Grid do a 32A DP grid but it's WIDER than a "normal" grid switch from other makes. For example:

 

minigrid-main.png.da402133a55f7cb5258148da208d1d91.png

 

Check them out here:

 

https://www.scolmore.com/products/minigrid/

 

If you really want normal width grid switches throughout then you could use a 20A one but then use it to switch a contactor hidden away somewhere (accessible ?).  

 

 

Edited by Onoff
Contactor not contractor!
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8 hours ago, ProDave said:

Best of luck getting that many double pole switches with large cable into a grid switch box.  It is certainly a work of art and patience.

You make a good point @ProDave. Particularly because I’m not sure my electrician has that much patience. I’m keen not to have too many switches on my splash back above all these appliances as I already have most of my sockets  there. How many appliances is it worth having isolation switches for given a new consumer unit (which will be on the same floor as the kitchen, albeit at the other end of the house) should be capable of isolating the oven and the induction hob (separately). In addition to the oven and induction hob, I will have:

Full size fridge

freezer

second fridge

dishwasher

recirculating fan

 

If the isolation for the oven and hob are each done from the consumer unit, the recirculating fan is done separately and concealed within a cupboard above the fan, the dishwasher is done separately and placed near the dishwasher, that would just leave the two fridges and the freezer. Could those three be done on a 3 gang grid, or would that be tricky as well?

 

 The other alternative is to have some isolation switches in the adjacent utility room, but not a huge deal of space there either.

 

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For kitchen appliances I like them plugged into a socket, either on a flex under plinth void or in an adjacent cupboard.  No way would I have them on a grid switch.

 

Easily accessible switches are useful for stuff that needs turning on and off other than just for servicing, such as those that use power on standby.

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