Drew1000 Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Can anyone advise if it is acceptable to have a grid switch in the kitchen that is used to isolate the washing machine and tumble drier in the adjacent utility room. The grid switch is approx. 300mm from the utility room door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Sounds good to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Do you consider the switching in another room to be local and could you isolate it quickly? Btw, you don't want to be in a room where the isolation is if the exit is in the room where the equipment is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Most people want it the other way, the isolation out of the kitchen to save clutter so more likely to have the isolation in the utility room not the kitchen? For big appliances I like the isolation to be truly local. But our Fridge Freezer has it's isolation backing onto the kitchen which has ended up at the back of a shelving unit in the hall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick1c Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 As ProDave says we are having a grid switch in the pantry to keep the kitchen area uncluttered. It also means we are not worried about matching the switches - they will be Hager elsewhere, but the Scolmore grid is a lot cheaper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 I'm considering a small consumer unit in a kitchen cupboard, so I can wire everything direct to without isolation switches, then size breakers to suit appliances Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew1000 Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 Thanks for advice all. May switch to grid switch in utility room to keep clutter down as suggested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 On 07/06/2020 at 12:50, JFDIY said: I'm considering a small consumer unit in a kitchen cupboard, so I can wire everything direct to without isolation switches, then size breakers to suit appliances Just remember that most breakers are not double pole - you really should be isolating both live and neutral. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adsibob Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 On 03/07/2020 at 19:34, PeterW said: Just remember that most breakers are not double pole - you really should be isolating both live and neutral. I'm going to order a "make your own switch" grid (like this) with a bunch of double pole switches like these: But my question is: how many appliances should I do this for. Have I understood correctly that the big stuff like the laundry machines, oven and induction hob needs a double pole isolation switch for safety, but the rest is more "optional". What are the advantages of having a double pole isolation switch for each appliance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Just make sure you put the deepest box in the wall possible as it’s a pain connecting grid switches! if you can get 47mm in, it will make live easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 6 hours ago, Adsibob said: I'm going to order a "make your own switch" grid (like this) with a bunch of double pole switches like these: But my question is: how many appliances should I do this for. Have I understood correctly that the big stuff like the laundry machines, oven and induction hob needs a double pole isolation switch for safety, but the rest is more "optional". What are the advantages of having a double pole isolation switch for each appliance? You can get them pre-engraved and are much easier than guessing what is what. Unlikely you’ll get one that takes the 40A an induction hob takes - these are mostly 20A at best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Best of luck getting that many double pole switches with large cable into a grid switch box. It is certainly a work of art and patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 9 hours ago, Adsibob said: I'm going to order a "make your own switch" grid (like this) with a bunch of double pole switches like these: But my question is: how many appliances should I do this for. Have I understood correctly that the big stuff like the laundry machines, oven and induction hob needs a double pole isolation switch for safety, but the rest is more "optional". What are the advantages of having a double pole isolation switch for each appliance? The double pole isolation gives you the benefit of the appliances goes faulty and takes out the MCB/RCBO, you can isolate the equipment and carry on regardless until a repair is sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 (edited) Click Mini Grid do a 32A DP grid but it's WIDER than a "normal" grid switch from other makes. For example: Check them out here: https://www.scolmore.com/products/minigrid/ If you really want normal width grid switches throughout then you could use a 20A one but then use it to switch a contactor hidden away somewhere (accessible ?). Edited April 11, 2021 by Onoff Contactor not contractor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adsibob Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 8 hours ago, ProDave said: Best of luck getting that many double pole switches with large cable into a grid switch box. It is certainly a work of art and patience. You make a good point @ProDave. Particularly because I’m not sure my electrician has that much patience. I’m keen not to have too many switches on my splash back above all these appliances as I already have most of my sockets there. How many appliances is it worth having isolation switches for given a new consumer unit (which will be on the same floor as the kitchen, albeit at the other end of the house) should be capable of isolating the oven and the induction hob (separately). In addition to the oven and induction hob, I will have: Full size fridge freezer second fridge dishwasher recirculating fan If the isolation for the oven and hob are each done from the consumer unit, the recirculating fan is done separately and concealed within a cupboard above the fan, the dishwasher is done separately and placed near the dishwasher, that would just leave the two fridges and the freezer. Could those three be done on a 3 gang grid, or would that be tricky as well? The other alternative is to have some isolation switches in the adjacent utility room, but not a huge deal of space there either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 I'm personally not convinced that an accessible isolator for fridges and freezers is a good thing. Too easy to have a smelly expensive oopsie... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 For kitchen appliances I like them plugged into a socket, either on a flex under plinth void or in an adjacent cupboard. No way would I have them on a grid switch. Easily accessible switches are useful for stuff that needs turning on and off other than just for servicing, such as those that use power on standby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now