Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Started on the ensuite ceiling . The ceilings angled where they meet . This ok ? ( apart from timber bit showing - will cut a bit to fit in there ) . Will a plasterer get over the ‘step’ ? Also I read that apparently he can curve the join between horizontal ceiling and angled ceiling . Assume this looks better ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) 11 minutes ago, pocster said: Started on the ensuite ceiling . The ceilings angled where they meet . This ok ? ( apart from timber bit showing - will cut a bit to fit in there ) . Will a plasterer get over the ‘step’ ? Also I read that apparently he can curve the join between horizontal ceiling and angled ceiling . Assume this looks better ?? Plasterers can cover up almost anything to be honest, however, here it looks like the diagonal piece should have been a bit higher and the horizontal piece cut back a bit so the join was level, the issue you will have here is if he plasters that out, he will end up having to build up the material across the horizontal sheet a fair bit to get the level looking right, and you will always then have a uneven section which may show against the wall depending on finishing and eye lines etc. Personally I would have done that in a single piece by scoring and snapping the piece but not broken it off to get a really nice straight line. Straight sharp lines look better, curved lines look like you were trying to hide a mess and he will not than you for that if he is there to do a skim coat as that will need built up. Edited May 13, 2020 by Carrerahill 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 3 minutes ago, Carrerahill said: Plasterers can cover up almost anything to be honest, however, here it looks like the diagonal piece should have been a bit higher and the horizontal piece cut back a bit so the join was level, the issue you will have here is if he plasters that out, you will end up having to build up the material across the horizontal sheet a fair bit to get the level looking right, and you will always then have a uneven section which may show against the wall depending on finishing and eye lines etc. Personally I would have done that in a single piece by scoring and snapping the piece but not broken it off to get a really nice straight line. Straight shape lines look better curved lines look like you were trying to hide a mess and he will not than you for that if he is there to do a skim coat as that will need built up. I was going to take the diagonal higher then changed my mind ! Hmmmm ; think I’ll take the diagonal down and the horizontal . Put diagonal back up . Be easier to get the horizontal to be near flush with the diagonal then . Photo’s to follow of attempt 2 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) Just now, pocster said: I was going to take the diagonal higher then changed my mind ! Hmmmm ; think I’ll take the diagonal down and the horizontal . Put diagonal back up . Be easier to get the horizontal to be near flush with the diagonal then . Photo’s to follow of attempt 2 ! In that case, take those piece down (for all they are) slide the diagonal up till it hits the horizontal timbers then re-cut the ceiling PB to suit. Edited May 13, 2020 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Curves can look good but they need to be built up with bonding first and then skimmed to look right. Did a big room in roof conversion a year or so back and this was the en-suite ceiling junction 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Bonding is nice and sticky too. I think the join is less likely to crack if you do bonding first. You can probably leave the plasterboards as they are, especially as they have a thousand screws per board. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 5 minutes ago, PeterW said: Curves can look good but they need to be built up with bonding first and then skimmed to look right. Did a big room in roof conversion a year or so back and this was the en-suite ceiling junction That is a nicely executed curve to be fair! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 7 minutes ago, pocster said: I was going to take the diagonal higher then changed my mind ! Hmmmm ; think I’ll take the diagonal down and the horizontal . Put diagonal back up . Be easier to get the horizontal to be near flush with the diagonal then . Photo’s to follow of attempt 2 ! You know what would work, add another piece to the existing bit. Assuming the ceiling area is small and you have spare board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 44 minutes ago, pocster said: Started on the ensuite ceiling . The ceilings angled where they meet . This ok ? ( apart from timber bit showing - will cut a bit to fit in there ) . Will a plasterer get over the ‘step’ ? Also I read that apparently he can curve the join between horizontal ceiling and angled ceiling . Assume this looks better ?? We usually put a skim on the ceiling edge 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 V 2 ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Wow, Loads of great advice, I have a very similar ceiling (didnt think to score and snap board or fit a skim) but my joints are a little bit tighter. Pete those curves look great - keeping the page open to show swimbo when she comes home for lunch. I have also used loads of screws - is it a problem? Finally a question about MR plasterboard - I too have used MR boards, but when you cover them with a skim coat does it make them pointless? or is the skim more MR than normal PB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 V2 looks much better ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 3 minutes ago, wozza said: Wow, Loads of great advice, I have a very similar ceiling (didnt think to score and snap board or fit a skim) but my joints are a little bit tighter. Pete those curves look great - keeping the page open to show swimbo when she comes home for lunch. I have also used loads of screws - is it a problem? Finally a question about MR plasterboard - I too have used MR boards, but when you cover them with a skim coat does it make them pointless? or is the skim more MR than normal PB? My penny advice whether plasterboard/ timber - anything . You can never have too many screws in . If in doubt add more . If still not sure add some screws . Not confident yet ? - perhaps it needs more screws . @PeterW that’s exactly the type of professional curve I’d like ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 8 minutes ago, pocster said: If in doubt add more . If still not sure add some screws . Not confident yet ? - perhaps it needs more screws . That is actually counter intuitive - put too many screws in a plasterboard and it will fracture along the line. @wozza there are a few more ... This is the ceiling between two curved sections and a wall... And a 5.3m vaulted ceiling When it was finished it was nicknamed the chapel of St Andrew the Plasterer .. Pretty lucky that he is a perfectionist and also very reasonably priced too ..!! We had to do very little prep for paint on this - probably saved 3-4 days labour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 7 minutes ago, PeterW said: And a 5.3m vaulted ceiling How did you get access? Looks tricky to get the top and skeiling in one. This sort of thing often ends up a bodge and a work from height risk. That has come out really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 1 minute ago, Mr Punter said: How did you get access? Looks tricky to get the top and skeiling in one. This sort of thing often ends up a bodge and a work from height risk. That has come out really well. Was all done using a full kwikstage platform built in the room, basically from wall to wall. The sides of the chimney breast were a challenge but they were extended out using side extensions on the scaffold and a double layer of boards. This was when it was being taken down. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Ours was done the same with curved edges at the ceiling. Also done from a Kwikstage platform and partly in our case from the mezanine. Only about 4 metres to the ridge in ours. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the Pics @PeterW and @ProDave they look good. My bedroom vaulted ceiling has less of an angle (about 24 degrees I think) but it will still look good - need to speak to my plasterer. What are peoples thoughts (sorry to hijack thread) about curves on Acute angles? I have two large areas with acute angles but not sure if it would look right. Edited May 13, 2020 by wozza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Sigh ! Removing screws ..... ? Nah ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Ensuite done . Used twice as much plasterboard as I should and 1000% screws more than necessary . Do I or the plasterer fill gaps etc. tape joints ? . I assume I leave it now for a professional to sort . Before anyone says - the mvhr vent is on the piss ( but I can cut flush ) - though the vent cover will be an issue as it will be trying to sit on horizontal and angled ceiling ( blame @Mr Punter for making me move it ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Trim your mvhr vents flush before the plasterer arrives. He will fill the gaps (and mutter under his breath about the boarder) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 1 minute ago, ProDave said: Trim your mvhr vents flush before the plasterer arrives. He will fill the gaps (and mutter under his breath about the boarder) I’m sure he will . I think every plasterer I’ve met moans . Even with a completely clear wall that just needs skimming . I think they only like easy jobs ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 1 hour ago, ProDave said: (and mutter under his breath about the boarder) Doubt it will be under his breath. I bet @pocster tells the plasterer the boarding was by "others"! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 12 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: Doubt it will be under his breath. I bet @pocster tells the plasterer the boarding was by "others"! I’ll say you did it ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Won't you have a mare trying to fit that vent on the mvhr? It's right on the join between flat and vaulted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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