H F Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 We want to put up 2 exterior cctv cameras that are connected to a HDD inside the house, and the distance between the two cameras would be around 20-25m. I’m struggling to see how I can wire our cameras as we have no loft space and don’t want to run cables on the exterior of the house. Does anyone have any innovative suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSS Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Wireless cameras? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Run the cable down to the ground and then through a conduit buried in the ground? I assume you're thinking of PoE cameras so only a single cable involved for both data and power. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Behind the gutters or under the roof tiles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 9 hours ago, NSS said: Wireless cameras? Problem with wireless is that they still need power cables. Was also looking at solar powered options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 9 hours ago, Dreadnaught said: Run the cable down to the ground and then through a conduit buried in the ground? I assume you're thinking of PoE cameras so only a single cable involved for both data and power. PoE make life easier as we only need one cable. Can’t run ground level either because of walls that’ll in the way. Popping the cables in the gutter might be a solution. That’s what Sky did when they installed our dish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 3 minutes ago, Temp said: Behind the gutters or under the roof tiles? Yeah, looking at that. Our roof and gutters are really high and I have a fear of heights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 if you can't/ don't wnat to do it, there's always the "pay a professional" option... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I have a mix of wired and wireless cameras. The wireless camera is less reliable than the wired ones - it occasionally glitches or drops out. All use a fair bit of power, so if the intention is to run them from solar power then they will need a pretty large battery and panel. The highest current demand is overnight, when the IR illuminator in the camera is on. Typically a camera may draw around 500 mA or so at 12 VDC over night, versus around 200 mA during the day. At a guess I'd say each camera draws around 100 to 120 Wh/day, and to allow for dull days with minimal PV generation, a battery probably needs to be around 5 times the daily demand, so around 500 Wh. The panel needed to keep that battery topped up would need to be sized to run the camera and charge the battery in maybe 5 or 6 hours of sunlight, to allow for winter days where little may be available, so that looks like having a panel of around 100 Wp, which is a fair size. I'd just run a cable and power the cameras using PoE. I'd also look at fitting some extra IR illuminators, as the ones built in to the cameras tend to be fairly directional and don't seem to illuminate the whole field of view that well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 19 minutes ago, dpmiller said: if you can't/ don't wnat to do it, there's always the "pay a professional" option... Yes there is, but I'm trying so hard to do all our DIY ourselves now. Would be a good way to take my phobia head on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 You've answered most of my next questions JS. Insightful as ever. Had doubts about the solar option at nighttime. Looks like PoE it is. Any brand recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joth Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Do you expect to do other work at height in future? Investing in a small portable scaffold tower would have long term use and is far more pleasant to work from than hanging off a ladder you can't quite get to the place where you want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 6 minutes ago, joth said: Do you expect to do other work at height in future? Investing in a small portable scaffold tower would have long term use and is far more pleasant to work from than hanging off a ladder you can't quite get to the place where you want it. That's a good suggestion Joth. Was thinking about one because we need to paint over chimney breast too. Any suggestions in terms of brands and types? Don't know anything about such towers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, Home Farm said: Popping the cables in the gutter might be a solution. That’s what Sky did when they installed our dish. IMO that is a bargepole option - it *must* help gutters to block up more. I would counsel to be a bit strategic and consider what other wiring type services you may need in the future eg remote lights or sockets etc, and perhaps consider doing the trenching and ducting for these now, including spare ducts with draw strings and so on. We installed satellite TV from a remote mast (made from scaffolding) into a smallish listed 16C Manor House building, and we installed an extra drainpipe up one corner for wires then ran all our cables up insider that. On this occasion that was four sets of satellite wires which included a spare. Always include a spare. Here we are built into the roof. The way I handle cables here is to route up one particular place on the wall for most, and then via the "toblerone spaces" created by rooms in the roof as far as possible. But it is tricky. Perhaps a few new built-in cupbards will create routable routes? At my last reno I left channels under all the floating floors round the inside walls, which worked a treat for plumbing and electrics. The other thing to put in when you can is underfloor ducts for future media areas, so that you do not have Virgin going right through everything with their BFO drills. Yes - to the scaffold tower. But never take silly risks. I have a Zarges Reachmaster bought secondhand via BH. I have 5.7m working height, but it will go to 8.1m with extra bits I think. Useful for building up a stock of future favours from neighbours. Ferdinand Edited August 3, 2019 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Walker Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 4 hours ago, Home Farm said: You've answered most of my next questions JS. Insightful as ever. Had doubts about the solar option at nighttime. Looks like PoE it is. Any brand recommendations? Hikvision or Ubiquiti is a good start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I bumped this thread and have pretty much stalled at the moment due to practicalities of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I’m now considering what to install permanently in the new house, as we're at first fix stage starting next month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I used Ubiquiti ToughCable and matching screened connectors. Needs a crimping tool. The cable is rated for outdoor use (eg UV stable). Plenty of other makes available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H F Posted August 4, 2019 Author Share Posted August 4, 2019 8 hours ago, Temp said: I used Ubiquiti ToughCable and matching screened connectors. Needs a crimping tool. The cable is rated for outdoor use (eg UV stable). Plenty of other makes available. I’ve not heard of Ubiquiti. Just went to their site and they’re a serious company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 I think someone here or on the old forum recommended them to me some years back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozza Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Not an answer to your technical question, but if installing CCTV can I provide some advice. Often CCTV is installed to provide as much geographical area coverage as possible, placed at height. Fine if you are monitoring it live, or want to prove an incident occurred. However what the police want is to identify is the culprit. Either by vehicle reg number and/or facial images. So please consider siting a camera (ideally covet) that has the best chance of capturing this. Footage of a crime with two vague figures in hoodies is not a lot of use TBH, However combined with a cracking facial shot is clearly vital. If you have one ingress / exit point to a plot try to site a covert camera that provides a clear, crisp head height facial shot in best definition / light possible. It’s rare for scumbags to wear full face masks more often they pull a hoodie up over their mouth on their way in and it will often slip on the way out if running or carrying stuff. Another tip is to think like a criminal. If breaking into your own house, which way would you approach, which method/point of entry would you use. Patio doors in a darkened area, not seen from road/neighbours, is the usual weak spot. If your garage is most vulnerable, hide a camera there. Being caught on camera is only of real use if you can actually ID the culprit in some way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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