Kelvin

Yes what I assumed. I’ve emailed them about it. It’s another source of frustration. I don’t know if it’s normal but the lack of attention to detail is shocking to me. Since the start every single document I’ve been sent is full of errors. Ironically the SE drawings were delayed in being sent to building control as the kit company wanted to scrutinise them to make sure there were no errors (because of my moaning about all the other errors). What concerns me though is while I can easily spot these kinds of errors I don’t have enough technical knowledge to spot anything that’s technically incorrect. Nor should I of course but it is sapping my confidence.

We have specced 3G for our build. There is one large slider that the timber kit company has said is a problem due to the size of it, so much so they suggested not to triple glaze it. However, I’ve insisted and they’ve agreed albeit they had to seek approval from the factory (Nordan) They’ve not been specific about the issues triple glazing this window will cause other than difficulty fitting it on-site. On Friday I had a call with the MD of the kit company about several other issues I have. In passing he mentioned the 3G weight problem suggesting it might need the glass installing on-site and it creates a challenge for the frame so might need extra strengthening. I think I am being prepared for a massive cost increase which I’ll find out tomorrow. Fitting the glazing unit on-site doesn’t sound ideal to me. Is this common for very heavy windows? After watching Grand Designs for years with their enormous 3G windows being craned over rooftops I am surprised it’s such an issue. The window (W02) is 5mx2.1m although I believe the small window at the right side of the slider is separate.

It’s these blocks. Mortar is M6 mix. However, there’s something that appears contradictory in the SE notes but it might be my lack of understanding. It states two different minimum densities.

How is it worded? Who is the beneficiary of the covenant? Covenants run with the land so it still applies and presumably anyone with an interest (like a neighbour) could highlight it. You can indemnify the land and it stays with the land but I thought this was you taking the indemnity out to protect the person buying the land/house.

Cheers. I can see a way how to build up the block wall to achieve the same outcome with my foundation. I’ve also found an insulated block that meets the design strength spec.

That sounds more like I was thinking. You don’t happen to have it drawn you could share?

Thanks. It doesn’t look to me that the kit load point is on one side though. I’ve spoken with Isoquick and they’ve come back with a couple of options and a cost estimate although they need the load points too of course. I’ve also spoken with the timber kit supplier (the MD in fact) and we’ll follow it up on Monday. They have done Isoquick foundations for their builds in the past but my guess is that is likely to have been with their SIP kits rather than the CPS we are doing. He did say that a thermal bridge like this wouldn’t get past building control anyway. He made a curious point (to me anyway) He said that the SE won’t consider insulation as part of the structural design as he’s only focused on holding the building up. It’s the architects job to figure out the insulation detail. That seems odd to me as surely one drives the other?

I couldn’t either so fitted it in a permanent kiosk on the edge of the plot.

Mine was (is should I still do it) going in an insulated garage. I just don’t want them in the house in the same way I won’t park the EV right next to the house. The likelihood of a ‘thermal event’ is tiny. The consequence is huge though given they can be hard to extinguish.

Completely agree. Our plant room is just a bit bigger than it needed to be. You’re paying a lot of cash for the house so batteries outside but I’ve canned the batteries for now anyway.

Congrats. 7 years bloody hell. I ought to chill. 7 months in from starting the planning process and 1 year from first walking onto the plot. Building starts in March hopefully.

It's a good question. 6 months ago I knew nothing about any of this. I've been following architect's advice (timber kit company is Heb Homes) this is their standard foundation design and typically Scottish apparently. Since then I've become a bit more informed and now understand the consequences of some of the decisions better and started looking at passive insulated rafts. I have a meeting with HH on Monday to discuss all of this.

More googling and I've come across this: Mannok Lite Block 440 x 215 x 100mm 7N (Each) Gross Dry Density 760kg/m3 Average Compressive strength 7.5 n/mm2 Thermal Conductivity 0.19W/mk

I was looking to use Celcon but their highest density is 730 kg/m3

Hi I have finally got the SE pack back (well 4 drawings plus details) it's only taken them 9 weeks. Long story. The house is a CPS timber kit (302mm) The blockwork foundation detail is 325mm blockwork with a compressive strength of 7N/mm2 and a minimum built density of 750kg/m3. I was hoping to use an insulated block but they all seem to have a maximum density of 730kg/m3. Any suggestions? I also have concerns about thermal bridging which I've asked them about.

No idea my guess is likely to be a combination of demand not high enough to justify keeping the colour spec parts in stock. Lots of companies are simplifying their supply chain.

As above although I expect it’s a wilful decision insofar that lenders might have glossed over this before but are not being a lot more stringent on what they’ll lend against as they tighten up money supply

Other half’s dad was an architect as was her uncle. The uncle in particular did some incredible designs but all commercial. When he retired he decided to build his own house. Two very accomplished architects with a catalogue of great work behind them. He went to Huf Haus and built an off the shelf house and made very few changes to it.

We were going down the architect designed route originally but two things put me off. The first thing one of them said was we can design you an award winning house. What I heard was we can add an award winning house to our portfolio. We didn’t want an award winning house. The second completely ignored our design brief proposing an expensive split level design. I asked if he used someone else’s brief. I get architects want to do challenging stuff with split levels, cantilevered overhangs and complex roofs. Designing open plan square boxes isn’t worth the 7 years studying i guess. In the end we went to one of the shed companies. Not exactly architecturally adventurous but we wanted simple and clean that fitted in to the landscape so that when done it would like like it’s always been there.

Yes they’ll probably ask for it back. If they do I think I have one somewhere in storage you can have for free if I can find it.

Our last house had two joins. They were where the L turn was in both corners so we had the longest run possible on the longest side of the kitchen. It wasn’t an issue and I never really noticed it.

Presumably you can cover the rain sensor so effectively disabling it.

In our previous house our garden and paddock was part of a larger estate grounds. Our deeds had some restrictive covenants. However, the larger area of land that it once formed part of had other covenants (no livestock) that we only became aware of when we sold it. Therefore, you can’t assume it won’t apply to your garden. Covenants run with the land.

Like drive through a pile of dog shit which happened to a friend. What a stinky mess that made. He couldn’t bring himself to even try to clean Roboshit.

I’ve just been through this. SSEN for the cable install and Octopus for the meter. Be aware that it’s taken 4 months for Octopus to install the meter. They also completely screwed up my ‘new connection’ taking a month to get it registered and energised so much so that I ended up getting £150 in credit from them. As above I’ve made my temporary connection permanent. As an aside I found SSEN great to deal with. I even got a refund of £560 from them. Total cost for SSEN was £456. The original quote was £26,500 😂 Pic pre meter install.