Kelvin

I’ve started getting quotes back and one thing I’ve noticed is that the difference in cost between steel and zinc is only circa £18/m2 For our roof it’s about £2500 of a difference compared to the Greencoat PLX. I had ruled zinc out due to cost but the energy crisis has made steel less cost effective than it maybe was a few years ago. I’ve read all the pros and cons for the various metal roofing materials. It was easier when I didn’t have a choice as the cost made the decision for me but now I need to make a choice I’m back to the indecision 😂 Any opinions for those that have had to make the decision and what you chose and why?

I’ve found this. Class 2 can be used and optionally protected with the VMZINC membrane. https://www.associatedlead.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/VMZINC-Standing-Seam-Reprint-April-2019-R5.pdf

Yes vented cold roof. The aim would be to have the roof follow on quickly after the deck is on but best laid plans and all that.

Our architectural specification roof build up states 18mm ‘WBP Plywood’ for the standing seam metal roof. The timber kit doesn’t include it as the build up is OSB, breather membrane, and battens to create a ventilation space. The Greencoat PLX roof supplier also states WBP Plywood. My question is which class is WBP Plywood. The WBP just refers to the glue not the wood. Class 2 can be for exterior use with some weather exposure during construction. Class 3 is weatherproof. I assume class 2 is fine. See below for the class details. I’ll ask the roofing company and architect to be more specific. https://elliotts.uk/ideas-and-advice/plywood-classes-explained

whereabouts is the back of beyond? Have you contacted the metal roofing company? They gave me a list of installers for Greencoat which I’m working my way through. I am expecting some quotes back this coming week but they’ve been saying that since last month and December.

Have you looked at Catnic or Greencoat ? I’m having a similar issue but less cost and more finding someone to quote for the work. I’ve contacted many companies and a third of them aren’t taking on new work for the rest of this year. A local builder said to change to tiles as there is a greater choice of roofers in the area.

Is it in their planning policy…

If you haven’t done so search the planning portal for anything nearby that’s more like what you’re trying to accomplish. But as above the local vernacular will take priority. Also look through their planning policies and see what they have on sustainability etc

Lol this is what I am trying to avoid...

I have a reasonable idea of the lighting after feedback on here and also what else I want to control. I've also started planning out what's needed using the Loxone config app. I'll have a look at the google group. Anyone willing to share their cabinet design so that I can have a look at it?

I am struggling to find anyone in Scotland that will provide a quote for the Loxone HA. I’ve contacted the three Loxone recommended and have had no joy with any of them. Therefore not entirely sure what to do. Spoke with the electrician and he says he’s happy to give the wiring a go. He’s done a lot of wiring for other HA systems so has some experience of wiring the cabinets up. I’m an ex programmer so reckon I can work my way through that side of things. However is there a company or service that can do the cabinet layout or even design etc ? I have a reasonable idea what I want to automate.

Ah I see. Buy a big rug. 😀

This is the borehole at our plot.

Good idea. I may even have a kit in the garage. I’m relatively confident in their numbers and methodology though. The pump company will do another test as part of the commissioning and adjust the treatment accordingly

I’d live with it a while and see if your attitude towards it lessens. You’re angry at being ripped off.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen an insulated water main. The water pipe from my borehole isn’t insulated. I’d have thought as long as it’s deep in the ground it won’t ever freeze and when it enters the building it will always be above freezing.

It’s why we didn’t put a shower in the utility room as it compromised the layout too much.

Was tested by Scottish Water at their Edinburgh lab which is UKAS accredited. Must just be the way they show it.

Nope it’s the total hardness number. Calcium number was lower

White windows are really boring though when there are so many options nowadays. Of course you can re-paint timber windows and change the colour. Bit harder with alu clad so as you you’re stuck with the colour. The bigger challenge with colour schemes is in open plan areas as there are so many different surfaces. In our case the architect also detailed RAL7016 for the internal colour of the windows. We said no because it’s such a large expanse of frames on two walls and figured the natural wood look would be warmer and easier to match.

Well the salesman said we don’t need the softener…

This is how I’ve agreed the groundswork. We have the various stages written down and I pay after each bit is completed. We don’t have a contract in place.

Just to add. My other reasons for questioning including a softener is that they waste water via the regeneration process and I’d be flushing the salt solution into our sewerage treatment plant. I know they are supposed to be able to cope with it.

What’s confused me is this. Scottish Water consider it moderately soft. It was the first water company that said it was moderately hard. They have a different scale below. https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/-/media/ScottishWater/Document-Hub/Factsheets-and-Leaflets/Factsheets/250221SW_FactSheet_12_2020V8webPages.pdf

Our water supply is going to come via a private water supply borehole. The water analysis says the water is moderately hard at 76.9 mgCa/l using a scale the first private water company provided me. I’m currently looking at the treatment plant requirements. I’ve had three companies provide designs and quotes. Two of them have said it definitely needs a water softener. The third has said the hardness level is below the minimum level where they’d recommend a softener. Therefore I need to decide whether to fit one or not. The cost isn’t too bad at £515 for the equipment. The slight complication is that the treatment plant is going to be in the detached garage so my plan would be to have two water supplies to the house one for the softened water that feeds the plumbing and a raw water supply to a single tap in the kitchen for drinking water. Clearly it’d be easier if I didn’t fit the softener. So the question is should I fit the water softener or not? I think I should but value other opinions. As an aside. I got three quotes as I said. The dearest quote was £23,000 ex VAT! from a well known Scottish private water company. They charged the farmer £18,000 to drill the hole (it’s deep at 147m) The other two were under £10,000 as a like for like comparison for the same treatment design and pump.