Moonshine

merchant

I am buying materials through my builders trade account at a large BM, i am paying by card and he is providing me the receipts. The plan is to use these receipts to claim back the VAT, however i think that there is an issue that the cash invoice has the builders invoice details on it not mine. The delivery address on the invoice is the address of the build My concern is that if HRMC look at these it seems that the builder has paid for them and not me, and they won't accept the VAT claim on them?

I think that you are right that the tie is likely to be at the bottom of the wet patch, and that is a good idea to use a grinder to find it.

what is the construction, is it detached / attached to the main house. What are the internal dimensions. one of the biggest hurdles you might have is getting enough insulation in the floor and still having a decent floor to ceiling height.

i have got one of those for work, but i think it will be limited use as its a fully filled cavity and won't be able to move it round in there very much

My build is water tight and its great to have it dry inside, however it is not rendered. There is a location where a scupper drain is dripping (no hopper fitted yet)with very heavy rain causing the outside block work to get soaking, and on a couple of occasions a wet spot has appeared on the internal leaf of the block on the cavity wall (150mm fully filled cavity) This issue will highly likely go away when its rendered and the hopper is fitted but i want to make sure that whatever is causing this sorted just in case its a weakness somewhere. My best guess is it is a wall tie that either has a large build up of mortar on it, or is angled with the drop into the inner leaf. my thoughts are to put a core drill through the inner leaf to investigate, knock off the snot. Question is, is this likely to be the issue, and if so where to core drill, is the tie likely at the base of the wet patch?

Any ideas? especially as its colder. Paining with dulux weather shield which is apparently micro-porous and breathable. https://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/product/paint/exterior-paints/masonry-paint/dulux-trade-weathershield-smooth-masonry-paint A quick google indicated 4-6 weeks 🤕

LAS8001si - £24 inc vat (https://www.noberneseals.com/product/lorient-las8001si-acoustic-threshold-seal/) LAS1212 (for all jambs) - £13 inc vat (https://www.noberneseals.com/product/lorient-las1212-batwing-seal/) LAS1011 (for all jambs) - £13 inc vat (https://www.noberneseals.com/product/lorient-las1011-firtree-seal-4mm-blade-las1011/) about £50 with some added on for delivery. The drop down seal is fitted by making a 36mm deep groove along the centre of the bottom of the door with a router, and drops with a push button onto the door lining when the door closes, hothing really that complex https://www.lorientuk.com/files/resources/LAS8001K-si-fitting-instructions.pdf

I would be interested to know the details on that and what the claimed Rw for the system is, that seems a lot a of money. The configuration below with two types of seals on the head and jambs, and drop down seal gives a tested performance with the 44mm fire door or Rw 39 dB, which is damn good for a door. The material cost of these seals is probably in the range of £50-70.

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This is all on the assumption that you aren't looking for crazy high levels of sound insulation. What is it you are trying to reduce the noise from? A standard solid core door (e.g. 44mm) will suffice, where you want to really pay attention to detail is the perimeter of the door at the jambs and threshold. Door jambs are fairly simple, its the threshold which is more tricky, and you will be looking for a threshold plate or a drop down seal Have a look at some of the solutions here https://www.lorientuk.com/acousticsearch/results?drawId=search-product

Yep, i have been phone by a couple of branch managers seeing about orders i have in the pipe line (not had that before)

You split the title as you remortgage. You are long way off this part of the process as you havent got planning yet.

its what we did, we split the title of the existing house to create to separate plots of land. We re-mortgaged on the now reduced plot of land of the existing house to release funds to build. Also you have the option available to get a self build mortgage on the plot of land you have a separate title for. Have you got planning permission yet as this will be your first hurdle before the finance side.

is this a decent rate for labour rate for sand and cement rendering?

I have ordered a load of airtightness tape to do my windows with a typical junction as below. My plan is to clean the closer up, and tape the following places. 1) window frame to cavity closer 2) corners of cavity closer 3) cavity closer to masonry (with primer sprayed onto the masonry) Is there any tips anyone has, also not sure how the corners of the cavity closer will work taped as its ribbed and air will pass under the tape. I could fill the gaps in the closer with builders silocone and tape over when set.

I am about to order a shed load of cladding, and have narrowed the option down to BTC1 or BTC2 as below. I prefer the BT2 with the straight edges, but in the back of my mind i am concerned that as its in the horizontal rain would get into the corner and cause issues, whereas with the BT1 rain water would run down the profile. i am getting concerned about nothing with the BT2?

The screed is in and has had about 3 weeks setting. I want to layout my non structural studwork on the screed but dont want to screw into it as there is UFH pipes in it. What can i use to stick the dpc onto the screed, then what to use to stick the sole plate to the dpc?

Yes they do, though only after the main guy went and got it from the lock up as he realised it would be useful with 200m coils, after being on site for 30min Seemed a bit of a red flag to me that they didnt have it ready on site to go for this type of job and seemed an after thought (i emailed the ufh layout to them last week)

I need a sanity check on how long it should take to install ufh pipes, two manifolds and pressure test? They are working on daily rates and feel they are not moving at a great speed. These are the guys i am looking to use for my plumbing on the build and i want a sanity check they aint taking the mick. Today they did ~370m of pipe over 5 zones as below and connected to manifold already mounted to a wall, but no pressure test. Pipe is being fixed to clip track. There were three guys on site (though i have my suspision the main guy wasnt there all day). Tomo plan is 40m of pipe on another floor with one zone and one manifold, and pressure test it all. They reckon they will need until early afternoon to finish off. A decent pace or dragging? I might have high expectations but have a nagging feeling and if is right i want to know before going on with them.

U have the arrangement below, and need to prep the outer steel for rendering. The renderer i am in discussion with has said for prep is screw a timber tight inside the web of the steel, and then screw render board to the timber to be flush with the outside of the web. how does that sound?

I have just had mine fitted (Alu-Clad Triple glazed AuraPlus) and i have to say i really like them now they are on site. One of the things that sold me for them is the hidden trickle vent externally. Fingers crossed they hold up....

That looks like a very high packed window, was there a stone window cill in under the old window?

That is what i am trying to do (or come up with a suitable alternative). I was relying on and thoughts there was a vertical safe zone of 150mm of the angle formed by two walls (external wall and internal stud) but now this internal wall may not be here and no save zone in the corner. The extra socket internally is a great idea to create a new safe zone vertically @ProDavewhat other alternative / easier way is there to get power out to the ASHP / external wall socket?

The ASHP going on the external wall as below, but the internal stud work wall isn't going in, so no safety zone. It looks like its going to need a 50mm chase down from the joist level, or i could take it out at joist level, and have an ugly conduit on the external wall down to the ASHP. The screed isn't down yet, could an option be to put the conduit in the insulation below the screed?